Drill press router?

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Forum topic by Farrout posted 02-10-2014 08:49 PM 1482 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Farrout's profile


187 posts in 3353 days

02-10-2014 08:49 PM

I’ve always been intrigued by milling machines.
I tried chucking up a flat ended bit and pushed the material through.
I set the drill press to the highest speed and used relatively soft pine for the test.
It’s a whole lot easier to setup than a router table for small cuts.
Here’s a picture. It may have some applications in the future.
What do you think?

-- If we learn from our mistakes, I should be a genius!

6 replies so far

View bigblockyeti's profile


5285 posts in 1920 days

#1 posted 02-10-2014 08:56 PM

The reason this isn’t commonly done and usually discouraged against is the spindle of a drill press isn’t designed for a radial load, axial only. Most drill press chucks are pressed onto a tapered spindle, when a radial load is introduced you start loosening that fit and eventually the chuck can come off. Best case scenario; you’ll only destroy what ever you’re routing, worse case scenario; use your imagination.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View tefinn's profile


1222 posts in 2636 days

#2 posted 02-10-2014 10:01 PM

I totaly agree with bigblockyeti. Even if you don’t have a morse taper chuck on your drill, the added strain to the quill and bearings will cause premature failure. You also don’t have any protection from the spinning bit should something happen

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

View pintodeluxe's profile


5798 posts in 3012 days

#3 posted 02-10-2014 10:32 PM

That, and router bits are designed to spin at close to 20,000 rpm. I’m pretty sure my DP won’t do that.

I like your creativity though.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View MalcolmLaurel's profile


300 posts in 1822 days

#4 posted 02-10-2014 11:55 PM

I used to do it, before I acquired a milling machine. The chuck kept falling off the tapered shaft. Plus as others have posted above, it’s not really good for the spindle bearings.

That said, if you make small cuts slowly you can get away with it.

-- Malcolm Laurel -

View stefang's profile


16128 posts in 3533 days

#5 posted 02-24-2014 05:07 PM

Not good for the reasons the others gave, but the concept is excellent and a good alternative is to mount your router on the DP column with a custom made wooden bracket, then you will have a proper milling machine and an overhead router to boot. If you can’t find a good design on the net let me know and I will try to dig up something for you. I have some designs from some old magazines I can scan and send you.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View 1yeldud1's profile


301 posts in 3241 days

#6 posted 02-24-2014 05:57 PM

That looks like a really good way to loose a finger – If the milling bit grabs the work piece and jerks it into the milling cutter your chance of getting your hands out of the way are very slim. I have been a tool maker for almost 40 years and endmills (router bits) do tend to “grab” their respective work pieces. You at the very least need a small table to clamp your work to with hand cranks to control lateral table movement. PLEASE be carefull !!!

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