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Last drawer front proving tough!

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Forum topic by boston_guy posted 02-09-2014 08:55 PM 650 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


02-09-2014 08:55 PM

I’ve successfully installed 5 drawer fronts (they have 1/2” overlay as do the doors).

The only problem that has come up is with the 6th and last drawer front.

It goes on a base cabinet that has 2 drawers on the top, side by side, and 2 doors below.

The drawer front on the right side worked out fine. It lines up with the door below very well. And the gap between the bottom of the front and the door below is 3/4 of an inch all the way across.

The drawer front on the left (the problem one) keeps coming out so that the gap between the bottom left corner and the door is 3/4” while the gap between the corner on the right side and the door is 1/2”.

This is the method I used for the drawer fronts:

I drilled 2 over-sized holes (5/16”) halfway up the front side of drawer box front (one hole on the left, one hole on the right).

I then measured 3/4” from the cabinet door top and placed blue tape as a marker.

I then placed loops of carpeting tape (which is strong) on the front of the drawer box.

I then positioned the drawer front on the tape and kept adjust and measure the gap between the drawer front and the top of the door below until it was perfect. And I also used a level to make sure that everything was level and the doors and fronts lined up.

Then I clamped the fronts to the boxes.

Then I measured again to make sure there was no movement of the drawer front during the clamping.

If everything was fine, I then drilled a small hole into the back of the drawer front from the over-sized holes on the drawer box (while the drawer front was still clamped onto the drawer front).

I then removed the clamps, finished drilling the holes onto the back side of the drawer fronts (taking great care not do drill through to the front side).

Then I attached the drawer front to the drawer box using 1 1/4” wood screws and washers.

This method worked out perfectly with 5 drawer fronts. It’s just this last one that’s a problem. They say that the over-size holes allow for adjustments but this isn’t proving the case here.

I have tried drilling new holes but it’s not working. I have sealed the holes with Bondo and sanded them. I’m now trying to figure out whether there’s anything else I can try. I don’t want to seal the holes on the drawer box since they’ll still be visible.

Any kind soul with a suggestion?

Below is a photo of the cabinet.


12 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4915 posts in 1229 days


#1 posted 02-09-2014 09:06 PM

Start measuring diagonals, drawers, face frames,
openings, doors, etc.

Sounds like something’s out an 1/8” on a couple of
sides making a 1/4” reveal disparity.

That’s odd behavior considering the rest of your project
is coming along fine.

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1621 days


#2 posted 02-09-2014 09:28 PM

Drill handle or knob holes in the drawer front, offer drawer front up to the drawer box, once it’s in position, drill thru the handle holes and attach drwer front to the box from the front, check everything is ok, bore thru drawer box into drawer front and attach it.
When you say loops of carpet tape, is it possible the loops started to roll down out of position?

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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


#3 posted 02-10-2014 03:00 AM

waho6o9,

I’m afraid I don’t understand what you mean by measuring diagonals. For example, do you mean I should measure from the top right corner of the drawer front to the bottom left corner and from the top left corner to the bottom right corner?

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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


#4 posted 02-10-2014 03:12 AM

The Lumberjock formerly known as renners,

What is really baffling me is that yes, I’m using carpet tape which is quite strong. However, once I’ve made sure the drawer front is in the right position, I press it hard against the carpet tape then clamp it tightly. I then measure again to make sure that there was no shifting. I then make the pilot holes from the over-size holes in the front of the drawer box and into the back of the drawer front. But for some weird reason, it’s not coming out right.

I had thought of drilling a pilot hole from the the front of the drawer front and into the front of the drawer box, once everything was in the proper position.

Are you saying that after doing this, I can then make pilot holes into the back of the drawer front from the over-size holes?

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waho6o9

4915 posts in 1229 days


#5 posted 02-10-2014 04:05 AM

That is correct boston_guy.

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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


#6 posted 02-10-2014 04:24 PM

It’s amazing how when one has never done something before a small thing can become huge.

I simply placed a wooden spacer and 2 pennies underneath, to give it a real snug fit between the drawer front and the door below.

I then used strong clamps and secured the front to the drawer box.

I then simply screwed the front to the box from behind.

I didn’t even have to use glue or carpet tape!

My mistakes before were:

1) I thought the over-size holes on the drawer box were for adjusting if the drawer front had the problem that I encountered (being off or sloped).

2) The method of clamping the front to the box then drilling a mark on the back of the front (from the over-size holes) is not very reliable. This is due to the fact that when you remove the clamps and drill the 2 pilot holes on the marked spots in the back of the front, then put in the screws, there’s a good possibility that the screws might shift direction.

Thanks for the feedback!

Now I can finally move on to staining the doors and fronts!

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waho6o9

4915 posts in 1229 days


#7 posted 02-10-2014 04:39 PM

Nice reveal on the doors and drawers boston_guy,

good job!

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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


#8 posted 02-10-2014 07:04 PM

Thanks, waho6o9.

Here’s the complete picture of drawer fronts that I did.

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

521 posts in 1551 days


#9 posted 02-10-2014 08:31 PM

nice work.

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Knothead62

2364 posts in 1613 days


#10 posted 02-11-2014 11:13 AM

Not an expert on how to solve your problem but the cabinets look great. What kind of wood and finish?

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boston_guy

50 posts in 802 days


#11 posted 02-11-2014 05:14 PM

Thanks.

The wood is red oak.

The stain is General Finishes Gel Stain. The color is candlelight.

I must say, however, that staining (I have 6 cabinets in total) was quite hard since it was the first time I had ever stained kitchen cabinets or used gel stain. It’s not easy! I have a separate thread on this! Again, thanks to all who kindly provided tips!

I’m now nervously moving onto staining the doors and drawer fronts.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4915 posts in 1229 days


#12 posted 02-11-2014 05:51 PM

Maybe practice on some scraps with different recipes and note
the recipes on the back for future references.

Stain one, use a gel on another, stain and gel on another, etc..

It’s kinda of fun as well.

HTH

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