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Forum topic by Kryptic posted 02-08-2014 05:14 PM 2611 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


02-08-2014 05:14 PM

Questions

Just to clear up the inevitable “what is Chevron flooring” I post a random pic of what it looks like by unknown craftsman, and maybe the photo is a tad on the rustic side, which is a bit more forgiving then “perfect”, suffice to say, that the photo below lets people know what Chevron Flooring looks like and it isnt popular for 1 reason….. its $$ pricey $$

Before anyone answers my question and or questions, its only fair to let people know what specie the wood is, and it will be a quartered and rift sawn white oak. Important to note, as the lineal expansion of this specie and cut, is somewhat negligible when comparing it to a flat cut specie of any other domestic hardwood, and for that matter, any domestic cut softwood. The expansion of rift sawn and quarter sawn white oak, happens through its thickness, as opposed to width.

Do you nail the floor down ?

or glue and nail it ?

or just glue it ?

do you start in the middle of the floor (yes) and then cut a clean line through ?

Has anyone done a floor like the photo ?

And had the floor turn out perfect ?

TIA

Best


15 replies so far

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2432 days


#1 posted 02-08-2014 05:31 PM

I don’t know the answer to your question but I’m interested in the answers.

two other considerations would be:
underfloor heating?
is there a border where boards are run parallel to the walls?

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#2 posted 02-09-2014 02:06 AM

no to in floor heat and a valid consideration,

yet your next question is also a good one and worth consideration

the border is your choose or the clients choice of picking one, and why would you use one, or not, and if so why not ?

yet my question remains,

where would you start, how and why ? would you glue it, nail it, combo nail and glue, and what would you nail and or glue it to ? plywood ? OSB ?

the miters that meet, would you do a spline or cookie/biscuit join them, maybe throw in the odd domino, and would you leave the joint dry to float.

and why ?

or would you staple it down ? with glue ?

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2432 days


#3 posted 02-09-2014 02:25 AM

Is this hugely dissimilar to laying a parquet floor?

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#4 posted 02-09-2014 03:19 AM

a little bit but you can buy tiles, wooden tiles, and the put the chevron pre-glued tiles down

if so would you glue them ?

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#5 posted 02-09-2014 03:23 AM

i already posted a picture of what it looks like ? and it surely doesnt look like parquet ? but you can buy parquet type wooden tile in chevron shapes at 17 bucks a square ft ?

what width boards would you pick ?

and why ?

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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2027 days


#6 posted 02-09-2014 04:05 AM

while I am pretty well versed in flooring (store manager of a lumber liquidators), I don’t have much experience with chevron patterns. Mostly now people do prefinished floors, which don’t work with patterning like that.

I’d say that to install you’d be best off doing it like tile where you lay it out along a center line or midpoint of the room and work out from there. That being said, if you want to do a border you really need to make sure your layout is dead on accurate.

I’d recommend (as a best practice) gluing and nailing. for your end jonits typically you’d use grooves and splines in flooring, but I don’t see why a domino or biscuit wouldn’t work (I am not versed in either product so I’d be wondering how they’d work on two things that don’t meet at a square angle.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#7 posted 02-09-2014 04:28 AM

very few have any experience with chevron flooring and many that do, have nothing to say for fear of bringing back a haunted memory

another vote for the “border”

for the record, I would prefer to avoid the border which really is inconsequential in laying the floor.

nailing together a simple mitred picture frame perfectly comes with its own challenges, nailing 5,000 of half of them together in one direction and nailing the other half the opposite direction, is new to me

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tefinn

1222 posts in 1900 days


#8 posted 02-09-2014 05:00 AM

I know this won’t really answer your question, but it may help. In herringbone pattern installations I’ve seen, the floor boards were glued down using mastic and nailed. The boards were either tounge and groove or splined to help help keep them aligned and tight. Also, I know that the sub-floor needs to be as flat as you can possibly get it. Any waviness in it will misalign the flooring.

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#9 posted 02-09-2014 05:26 AM

thx tefinn

i concur on the floor has to be flat

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2432 days


#10 posted 02-09-2014 03:47 PM

The key word in my previous question was laying. I can clearly see that the chevron floor is not a parquet floor, but laying this floor and laying a parquet would be similar. I had hoped by posing the question you might look up parquet floors and how they are dealt with. But hey, whatever.

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GOOD LUCK TO ALL

418 posts in 1191 days


#11 posted 02-09-2014 04:01 PM

Send Hammerthumb a PM
He’s a flooring guy..

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Kryptic

294 posts in 1124 days


#12 posted 02-09-2014 04:02 PM

I appreciate each and every bit of info but parquet and chevron are two different animals. Parquet is most often sold in tiles, can be glued and or nailed as the tiles are square. Chevron, available in tiles are similar, but once you buy the tiles you are stuck with given lengths, which doesn’t work for the client.

So with Chevron there are lefts and rights, nailing them leaves the chance for a board to move ever so slightly, and that movement would, if repeated, reek havoc by the time I got the ends.

I think glue, and the odd pin nail, is the way to go

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MrRon

3926 posts in 2707 days


#13 posted 02-10-2014 04:10 PM

I think you might see chevron style flooring in very large rooms in multi million $ mansions. The high cost is mainly for labor. I’ve never tried it nor would I try it. It’s much too labor intensive. Each individual plank would need to be keyed together and bedded in a mastic adhesive to prevent pieces from shifting. I think a CNC laser router would be needed to cut each piece perfectly.

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Hammerthumb

2533 posts in 1438 days


#14 posted 02-11-2014 12:28 AM

Chevron is a pattern. If you look at the posted pic, it almost looks like a herringbone pattern. A chevron pattern has mitered ends, whereas a herringbone pattern has lapping ends that are 90 degrees. Both patterns have left and right pieces unless the board ends are double grooved and require a slip tongue. Any patterned floor is going to cost more than flooring that is random length as there is a waste factor in manufacturing that you do not have in random length. Typical patterned floors like this are installed with adhesives, but some are meant to be nailed to a substrate. I have not only installed chevron patterns, but cut and routed a chevron out of random length flooring. It was a very expensive project.

Answer to your questions:

1. Glue or nail, or both? – It depends on who is manufacturing it. Follow their recommendations. If you are planning to mill it out of solid wood, a large module size (ie. 4”x 24” – 5”x35”) might require that you used both glue and nails. Smaller module sizes (ie. 3”x20” – 3”x24”) can just be glued.
2. Where do you start: First, measure and chalk line out your pattern. You do not want to end up with large cuts on the right side of the room and small ones on the left. But – usually with this pattern you must be conscious of the entry door. You do not want the pattern of the floor to look funny when you enter the room because the pattern is offset to one side. Chalk line every run. Once a pattern like this gets off a little bit, it is very hard to fix. Start in the middle and run both your left and right runs all the way to the opposing wall. Verify that the runs are straight. Then install another run to either the left or right side. Check again to make sure it is straight. Go to the opposing side and do another run.
3. Have I ever done one of these floors: Yes. The floor in the picture is manufactured by a company in So. Cal called Saroyan Lumber. Can’t think of the name of the flooring line, but I’m sure of the manufacturer. I have done several of these floors.
4.Perfect: No floor is perfect. Would others look at it and say it is perfect? Perhaps. But I have never seen a perfect floor, and this includes the floors that I have done.

Hope that helps. If you have any more questions, send me a PM and I’ll be glad to answer them.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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GlennD62

1 post in 1029 days


#15 posted 08-22-2015 11:55 AM

I know that my reply may be coming way too late to matter, but I have done chevrons, herringbone, and many custom patterns. The question about glue nail or both is usually decided by the manufacturer of the flooring. I prefer to do both. I use splines at all miters. As stated in previous replies, layout lines is the key. Snap your layout lines and adhere to them. Make tiny corrections as needed. One small off cut will grow exponentially. But the old rule about the length must be an exact multiple of the width is not true. I am in the middle of doing a chevron pattern using different species and different width boards. As for a border, that would be up to your taste. I myself think that a border not only is not necessary with a chevron pattern, but that it actually detracts from it. But that is only my opinion. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me.

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