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multi sided object clearcoat issue

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Forum topic by drpdrp posted 02-07-2014 02:46 PM 855 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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drpdrp

150 posts in 1511 days


02-07-2014 02:46 PM

Okay I am sure this is another of the painfully obvious things that I just… don’t see for some reason… So, forgive me please.

Okay, so I’ve had this problem a couple of ways- here is how it is manifesting now.

I made this bench with pegged tenons and want to do the clear coat before it is assembled (the intention is that it is knock-down). Of the four pieces two are visible from 5 sides and the other two all six.

I’ve got those little plastic cones to set them on- but then won’t I get a seam or drips from doing the coat on one side at a time? Like, problem A) if I do one side, let it dry and then flip it- there will be overlap and B) I tend to get drip bumps on the bottom edge. Not full drips- but like… the little bump that starts to form before it can turn into a drip. If it was the bottom edge (that would touch the ground) that is tolerable (at my skill level) but since it would be along a visible face it seems less than ideal.

Thoughts?


9 replies so far

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3553 posts in 1232 days


#1 posted 02-07-2014 03:09 PM

Try to hang them instead.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16242 posts in 3683 days


#2 posted 02-07-2014 03:35 PM

What type of finish are you using? Unless it is something exceedingly thick like a pour-on bar top finish, you should be able to apply it in thin enough coats that the overlap will not be noticeable. If you do get a little “bump” as you called it, you can always sand it out lightly and re-coat just the sanded area. Again, the key to good final finishing is using thin coats.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1667 posts in 2089 days


#3 posted 02-07-2014 03:57 PM

like Charlie asked what finish are you using?
You may not hurry this step, thin, thin thin.
On most finishes you will want, at some stage, to sand out the dust nibs and get the finish flat and smooth. At this time you can take out any ‘bulge’ on the edges.
I assume you are brushing of wiping…...yes?

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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drpdrp

150 posts in 1511 days


#4 posted 02-08-2014 07:09 AM

I am currently talking clearcoat- you don’t wipe this too do you? I do tend to want to hurry. I will build something to hang stuff from and just try to go slower.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16242 posts in 3683 days


#5 posted 02-08-2014 02:50 PM

I really don’t know what you mean by clearcoat, unless you are talking about automotive paint. If that’s the case, I assume you are spraying? And if so, I go back to what I said about thin coats. If you are getting drips or a buildup of any kind, it’s going on too thick.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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CharlesA

3022 posts in 1262 days


#6 posted 02-08-2014 03:58 PM

When I switched to Arm-R-Seal wiping varnish, this solved these kind of problems for me.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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drpdrp

150 posts in 1511 days


#7 posted 02-14-2014 07:18 AM

I was referring to a clear poly finish to make it shiny.

I will check out Arm-R Seal thank you.

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drpdrp

150 posts in 1511 days


#8 posted 02-15-2014 02:14 PM

So this wipe on varnish idea got me thinking.

I am now running an experiment just using a rag to apply the spar varnish I’ve been using. So far so good. This might solve a lot of my problems.

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3022 posts in 1262 days


#9 posted 02-15-2014 02:20 PM

Usually folks this it down 50/50 with mineral spirits for wiping varnish

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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