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Forum topic by jd53 posted 02-03-2014 11:58 AM 1116 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


02-03-2014 11:58 AM

First post here. Been reading this site for awhile now for info on a new saw, and just wanted to say how informative it is. Want to stay under $1000. Shop is in garage and need a mobile saw. 220 is not an issue. Don’t need an expensive cabinet saw and craigslist has little to offer in my area so I’m probably buying new. At first I was looking at the Ridgid 4512, Craftsman 21183, and the Delta 36-725. Not fond of the 2 pc rail system, and read several negative issues with them. So I found the Grizzly 0715 and some Steel City saws, the 35990, 35950 and a promo saw that I found at a store that carries Steel City a couple hours away. Had several e-mail conversations with a salesman at that store and had pretty much made my mind up to go with the Steel City. They had some in stock but said any new stock was backordered which I found to be an issue at other places to buy Steel City. This caused some concern considering some past issues they’ve had, at least that’s what I’ve read on this site and others. I e-mailed Steel City twice wondering if they were going to be around if I had warranty issues or needed parts and haven’t had a response in 5 days and e-mailed the salesman I had talked to expressing my concerns and haven’t had a response from him in 4 days. I looked at a Craftsman 22116 which is very similar to the Steel City promo saw, 22116 made by Steel City, right? So unsure on that one. Am I worrying to much about Steel City or are my concerns valid? I think I would be ok with the Grizzly, but is there anything else out there in this price range I’m missing? Thanks


14 replies so far

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#1 posted 02-03-2014 08:36 PM

AFAIK, Steel City/Orion makes the 22116 for Sears and is very similar, if not identical to one of the Steel City models. I’d forge on and buy the saw that you like…it sounds like you’ve down your homework.

The marketplace can change so rapidly, it’s nearly impossible to know what’s going to take place a few years down the road. Did you ever imagine that Bosch would buy the Freud cutter business, or the Stanley Tool would merge with B&D, or that Delta would be bought by an Asian company, that General would cease making their Canadian line, or that Jet/PM would be bought by a conglomerate… all within a few years’ span? The vast majority of stationary tools come from a handful of Asian plants now, so there are many ways to get parts, even from other similar tools with a different logo on them. If a tool is particularly popular, someone will buy up the parts, or continue to make them, even if the primary brand goes under.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#2 posted 02-03-2014 08:55 PM

Thanks for replying. Was hoping to get a reply from you.

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Dallas

3599 posts in 1954 days


#3 posted 02-03-2014 08:55 PM

You, like so many others, seem to either neglect to give any information on your whereabouts or are afraid to do so.

If you had done that simple bit and not been too specific I would bet that there are a few, if not dozens of Lumberjocks in your area that could give you a lot of guidance.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#4 posted 02-03-2014 09:08 PM

Marietta, Ohio zip is 45750. That enough

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#5 posted 02-04-2014 03:00 PM

An article about Steel City:
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Ezine/Articles/Steel-City-Tool-Works-Reinvigorated-and-Ready-for-9861.aspx

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#6 posted 02-04-2014 04:32 PM

Thanks. Customer service means a lot to me and I thought there should have been some sort of reply from Steel City. Why I’m leaning toward Grizzly, although I haven’t had any dealings with them. Seems you can read good and bad about anybody.

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#7 posted 02-04-2014 05:10 PM

”Seems you can read good and bad about anybody.”

That’s absolutely true. The more stuff they sell, the more opportunity for something to not be right, and the more likely to read about an issue. Try to keep it in perspective.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#8 posted 02-04-2014 05:38 PM

Just saw on another forum topic the Grizzly 1023. Seems like a good buy. Can get longer rails for the fence for $18 from grizzly. Have seen some homemade extensions on here that would be ok. Is the 0715 $120 better and safer. I’m just a weekender hobbyist making stuff for around the house, but 3hp seems pretty tempting.

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#9 posted 02-04-2014 06:32 PM

The guts of the G1023 are considerably beefier than the G0715P, has more mass, and the motor has 50% more power….all advantages IMO. The fence on the old G1023 is a question mark, plus it has the older style splitter and blade guard…. AFAIK, the BORK riving knife will fit the G1023S, but will add some cost….as would upgrading the fence if you chose to.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#10 posted 02-04-2014 07:24 PM

Having never used a saw with a riving knife, what is the biggest advantage over a splitter and guard?

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#11 posted 02-04-2014 07:27 PM

Both devices essentially perform the same function, but a riving knife is a “better mousestrap” IMO. A riving knife travels up and down with the blade, so it can be left in place for non-through cuts (like grooves). Since it can be left in place for more cuts, it’s more likely to be on the saw during that moment when it’s needed.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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JayT

4786 posts in 1678 days


#12 posted 02-04-2014 07:39 PM

The other big advantage to a riving knife is that because it is right behind the blade, it will enter the kerf and keep the wood from pinching. A splitter is far enough back that a board with quite a bit of internal stresses could close up the kerf before getting to the splitter. You do not want that to happen, nothing good will come of it. DAMHIK (There’s a reason the splitter is removed from my older saw)

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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jd53

44 posts in 1041 days


#13 posted 02-04-2014 08:35 PM

Thanks, definitely understand that and can see the advantage now.

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BorkBob

124 posts in 2159 days


#14 posted 02-05-2014 02:24 AM

My opinion (which is not intended to imply others are wrong): A splitter or riving knife is not intended to prevent the work from “closing” on the blade. It can’t; it has to be thinner than the saw blade tooth width to allow the work to pass. A work piece clamping down on the blade and splitter/RK is a good reason to have a knee switch to shut off the saw.

Also, a splitter or riving knife is not intended to hold the work against the fence. The work piece coming off the saw blade is narrower than the space between the splitter/RK and the fence.

The splitter or riving knife is intended to prevent the work piece from contacting the back of the saw blade. In so doing, it prevents the work piece from being launched.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

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