Finding the Center Point

You could start by planing the boards to be exactly the same which would be easier, But it sounds like you are using dimensioned stock from the store, if this is the case I would just use a good rule and measure twice, and hope for the best.

-- rob, ont,canada

You would think for $800 bucks the jig would find the center for you. Draw an X from corner to corner.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

Try this. Take a ruler and tilt it until you have an exact even amount of inches. Example, a 2×4 is approx 3.5” wide. Tilt the ruler until it “measures” 4 inches and the halfway point is 2”. Easier than all those 1/16ths and 1/32nds.

I also bought a center point tape measure several years ago. One side is the measurement, then find that measurement on the other side and that’s the middle. Works neat.

-- Randal, DeKalb, Illinois

I use a combo square.

- Set it approximately half width by eyeball
- Use it to make a pencil mark
- Flip the square, and do the same from the other side

The center is exactly between the two marks. It doesn’t matter if the square was set more or less than the 1/2 way point. It’s very easy to see the center point between marks 1/8” apart, but not edges 3 1/2” apart.

Try it and see!

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

Try this link to see the center point tape measure.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1256&TabSelect=Details

-- Randal, DeKalb, Illinois

There’s lots of ways to do it. But I do agree with DaveH. That is if it’s practical for your application.
-JJ

-- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood.

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I really appreciate and will try all of them, especially the center point tape measure.

+1 on Randal’s idea of just skewing a nice ruler. That’s the way the old guys did it. Need to mark a 7 inch board into thirds? Well, skew the ruler until it spans from 0 to 9, then mark at 3 and 6. Your board is now in thirds. Need to mark it in half? Skew the ruler until you’re at 8, and mark at 4. You can do this for any number of sections.

I totally agree with the ruler skewing method. I can’t believe I never thought of that before. Thanks Randal.

The thing about the FMT is that it does not need to be “perfect” centered as long as you reference the tenon and mortice on the correct side when you place them in the jig your joint alignment will be 100% perfect.
The FMT is an exceptional tool to use. I just used it to install 4 corner dowels into a big old newel post. I made a matching template so I could drill out the stair tread and the post and dowels just slid in nicely.

-- Paul

My technique, for what it’s worth (I do a fair amount of turning…) is to use a “center finding rule” to find the center point of all faces, connect the lines, then use the “corner to corner” method to connect the opposing corners… what results is a box, the center of that box is the true center of the piece.

-- Ryno

Here is a thought…. simple to make and foolproof.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

CharlieM1958 is right on target but use a 5mm mechcanical pencil so as the lead line is always the same width.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

I use a jig similar to Charlie but more often then not I use an adjustable square as CessnaPilotBarry does.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

I’ve made that dowel jig a few times but I’ve never gotten it to be that accurate. I tried again tonight and found it off by 3/64ths. But I suppose you could run it both ways giving you two lines to gauge the middle by, much like using the combo square. I’ve tried to make a jig that works on the principle of the Starrett’s centre finder but couldn’t get it dialed in. I wanted it for finding the centre of circles which I find very difficult. I’ll have to try again sometime unless I just break down and buy one. Anyone have the Starrett? And if so, how is it?

i just divide mark from both ends and split the difference. I have used the tilt method it works but I cant convince my self to trust it. I also use a slide square

-- jay Rambling on and on again

One issue to consider is that even dimensional lumber from the big box stores don’t run true the length of the board. I normally square up all stock before finding dead center and then check the length of the board for accuracy.

-- Those that say it can't be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.

It is important to start out with equal size stock or it will turn into a lot of small probs later, but the center finding rule not tape is what cha need . have fun

-- projects dont pay,pieces are profitable,production is painfull

Charlie has a version of what I have. Mine was copied from a commercial version. Its not pretty but it sure is functional. Mine uses a fine metal point instead of a pencil. Once marked I can highlight with a pencil. Pencils work for marking as long as they are sharpened consistently.
But I love making and using my own tools whe nI can.

-- CaptnA - "When someone hurts you, write it in the sand so the winds of forgiveness will scatter the memory... "

I use a center finding guide that I made. It is a rather basic jig

-- making sawdust....