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Table Saw Blade Questions

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Forum topic by Chris posted 203 days ago 629 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Chris

57 posts in 210 days


203 days ago

Hey everyone,

I am brand new to this place and woodworking. I recently inherited a table saw through my wife’s side of the family and I am trying to figure out how to use it. I recognize this is a really dangerous machine, but I don’t want that to stop me from trying to use it. I have done a lot of research online on table saw safety since getting the it, almost to the point where I just feel exhausted and I don’t even know where to start.

I thought I might try to build a table saw sled this weekend as a starting point. Where I keep getting stuck is how the runners on the bottom of the sled are cut? What type of wood I need to use? I don’t have a bandsaw.

The other question I have is related to changing out saw blades. The table saw I have is an old Craftsman 113-27521 and it has been sitting in a shop without being used for 4-5 years. I have taken pictures of my saw and the part that came with it. I did find a replacement Arbor wrench on the Sears website for this model table saw believe it or not. But I looked at the wrench and I thought I would probably be in the same place that I am with what tools I have right now. Here some pictures:

Sorry for the long post I am going to end it here. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks.


11 replies so far

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

479 posts in 355 days


#1 posted 203 days ago

runners can be made out of anything, quarter sawn red or white oak works good, and don’t put no excessive mucsle on that wrench when you put your blades on or you will mess up the arbor and nut, the wrench bein so big will cause you to over tightend your nuts, just measure the arbor flats and nut and buy a thin wrench then grind it down to fit the arbor or you can order one just snug the blade and just a little more, if the blade comes loose you will know before it falls off there will be lot’s of vibration, the runners need to be less than the height of the miter slot, use shims of some sort to push the runners up when you want to attach the sled to the runners, put double sided tape on top of the runners and place your sled on top of the runners, there is all kinds of videos on youtube for tablesaw sled building and aligning have fun with your saw and be safe work smart never work tired and make some dust have a good day

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

706 posts in 561 days


#2 posted 203 days ago

First off, that is a pretty decent looking saw. Do they come bigger and better? Yes, but for a beginner saw, that is a great one and looks to be in very good shape.

Look up “table saw sled william ng” and “table saw sled the wood whisperer” on youtube. Watch those videos and they should give you an idea about how to go about building a table saw sled. Those guys are both professionals and have built countless sleds, especially william ng.

I’m not sure I understand what you are asking about changing out the blades. I am a little confused. If you are asking where or not you can tighten an arbor with a regular wrench, the answer is yes, just firmly tighten it like you would any other nut. Make it pretty snug but don’t go crazy. You’ll need to take it off sooner or later. Just a heads up, a lot of arbors are reverse threaded, so you might have to put the nut on and turn in the opposite direction from normal.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View Chris 's profile

Chris

57 posts in 210 days


#3 posted 203 days ago

Thanks for the quick replies. I will try to clear up what I am asking and what I am trying to do a little more sorry about that.

In the tutorials I have watched to build a table saw sled people either haven’t shown how to cut the runners or used a band saw. I don’t have a band saw, and I am kind of nervous trying to cut something that thin on a table saw right out of the gate. How could I cut the runners?

As for the blade changing question. Most tutorials I have found in changing blades guys are using two different wrenches. One around the nut and one somewhere else? Since I only have that big wrench around the nut I have been using this method:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrEe4IKynR0

It has worked so far .. but I also just inherited a Frued dado set and I am just not sure if the method I have been using would work. I appreciate all the advice so far and don’t be afraid to offend .. I am a real rookie.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2274 days


#4 posted 203 days ago

looks like a good starers. for a wrench – you might need 2. one for the back (large mouth, and thin to fit behind the blade) and another for the nut – standard wrench. it might be worth it getting the wrenches from sears as it’ll be sure to be a good fit and one less thing to worry about.

as for the runners – use either plywood, or quarter sewn lumber as they will more stable and not move as much as flat sewn lumber. you are correct to feel uncomfortable cutting thin strips, but you can also cut thin strips on the “other” side of the board (where the thing strip is not between the blade and the fence but it is the off-cut).

be safe. wear eye protection, use push blocks, and keep your hands away from the blade (away from the area of the blade insert is a good reference)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3404 posts in 2586 days


#5 posted 203 days ago

We failed to note that on some saws (not sure about yours), the arbor nut is threaded left handed. Go easy until you’re sure you’re turning it in the correct direction.
Good saw, and it’ll serve ya well.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Chris 's profile

Chris

57 posts in 210 days


#6 posted 203 days ago

Alright thanks. I think I will try to cut the runners from the other side with a push block.

As for the wrench for the back of the blade I am still a little confused. Here is the link to the arbor wrench I found for this table off the Sears website:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Craftsman-Parts/Saw-Parts/3540/0009/113/Model-11327521/0247/0744100keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=00016975&diagramPageId=00001&productTypeId=&searchModelNumber=11327521&subCompDesc=Saw%20base%20assembly&brandDesc=CRAFTSMAN&modelDesc=CRAFTSMAN%20BENCH%20SAW%2010-INCH%20TILTING%20ARBOR.&blt=11&shdMod=&keyId=28

Is this the tool I will use to put behind the blade and hold stiff while I loosen/tighten the nut? Thanks again for all the help.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

706 posts in 561 days


#7 posted 203 days ago

Hey Chris,

One more thing on the runners… They can be really hard to cut perfectly right. You really need to be within a thousandth or two to get a sled to ride perfectly. In the past I have used a hand plane to shave the runners to the correct width, but if you are a beginner, that method might not be in your skill set yet. Also, even quarter sawn wood and plywood will shrink and expand due to weather changes. My saw fit perfectly in June of last year but it wobbles now because of the weather change. For the reasons above, I might suggest purchasing metal premade runners from rockler or woodcraft or incra. I know it seems like a cop out, but it is a good way to get very accurate and usable runners without having to worry about cutting them incredibly accurately, which can prove to be a difficult task, even for a non beginner.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 652 days


#8 posted 202 days ago

I’ll add a note, try to find a manual or something on the saw and find out IF you can use thin kerf blades before you buy one. Not all saws can use them. My grizzly saw which is new specifically says you can not use them on it. The Freud Diablo blades work good and do not cost a arm and a leg.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5417 posts in 2001 days


#9 posted 202 days ago

Regardless of the tilt direction, to loosen a table saw arbor nut always pull toward the front of the saw….toward the rear to tighten (never overtighten). You might be able to fit an adjustable wrench in there….block the blade with a scrap piece of wood.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1653 posts in 1547 days


#10 posted 202 days ago

For runners on my table saw taper sled I used alum “T” track that fit the miter slot. I just attached them to the bottom of the sled.

-- In God We Trust

View Ross's profile

Ross

110 posts in 598 days


#11 posted 202 days ago

To remove the blade unplug the saw. You can use a *’-12” long piece of 3/8” hardwood dowel sliding it through one of the gullets on the blade while it lays flat on the table saw top. Once secured in the gullet put your wrench on the arbor nut and pull toward you. Once the nut is loose you can spin it off by hand. Change out the blade and tighten the nut with wrench holding the blade with a gloved hand. You only need the nut snug.

-- "Man Plans and God Laughs"

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