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Forum topic by Medickep posted 176 days ago 1041 views 0 times favorited 58 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


176 days ago

Okay, I just picked up a Jet DC-1100C from a neighbor for 300 dollars. Included some stiff 4” PVC piping, 4” flexible piping as well as some Y’s and wall mounts.

It states in the manual it’s 1100CFM and the canister on it is 2 micron (not sure how good that is!). I do want to put a separator on it eventually, but that may come down the road.

I had a little room in the middle of my row of tools in my garage and I’m looking for ideas on the best setup. I know when I added to many gates on my 2.5” system I seemed to lose some suction, so I don’t want to do that!

*One note is that the old man I bought this from had a run of the 4” hard pipe along his wall with 4” flex pipe off the Y’s. His blast gates were at the tools, which I thought would cause him to lose suction, but he stated it worked great. He even had his Y’s backwards!

Also, for his smaller tools, he ran 2.5” shop vac hose from the tool, to the DC, where he had a reducer and a gate right at the DC.

So what I was thinking, unless I hear otherwise :-) is that I would have a run of hard 4” pipe (+/- 12’) to my chop saw, TS and router and the other way would be around 9’ to my oscillating sander, bandsaw and drill press. I would put a Y behind each tool and use the flexible 4” with a reducer right at the tool. I’m not sure where or how many metal gates I should get.

Here are some pictures to help!

Included 4” stuff.

Layout of tools:

Thanks in advance for any and all help thus far!

-- Keith


58 replies so far

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Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


#1 posted 176 days ago

Also in my lengthy post I forgot to ask about the bag, which was a pain to remove and empty with the owner. He had bought a clamp with the idea of strapping the bag around the outside of the container, but never got around to doing it but he gave me the clamp.

He was concerned with the edges tearing the bag. I thought maybe a tie down with a ratchet would work??

Anyone had success mounting the bag to the outside??

Thanks

-- Keith

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1yeldud1

285 posts in 1640 days


#2 posted 176 days ago

I have my dust collector (same as yours) in the middle of my 2 car garage (shop) i just use 4 inch flex hose and dustright connectors to move it from machine to machine. I have the original attachment strap for the clear plastic bag.., It works just fine in my situation. i just ‘pop” the clear bag loose from the collector and then slide a 55 gallon trash bag over the clear bag (done outside in the yard), I then invert the bags upside down , thus dumping the contents of the clear bag into the 55 gallon trash bag. I use a plastic wire tie to tie the 55 gallon bag shut. I have a co-worker who has a outside wood burning furnace. He welcomes these gifts of the sawdust and then returns the trash bag and wire tie when they are empty. I get about 3 dumpings before the 55 gallon bag gets too rough for the sawdust – I then place the trash from the shop into this 55 gallon bag and give it to the garbage man. I bought the 1st box of trash bags and then my co-worker bought the second box – a win win situation for both of us.

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Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


#3 posted 176 days ago

1yeldud1-

When you say you have the original strap and it works fine, do you mean that you still remove the filter and pop the ring out? It just seemed like it was hard as well as messy when I did that with the original owner, It just seemed like it would be easier to have it mounted to the outside of the DC.

Also, I’m hoping for a fixed position as I don’t want to move it about my garage and bend over to hook it up under the TS and stuff. Bad back and I’ll be more likely to not use it!!

-- Keith

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1yeldud1

285 posts in 1640 days


#4 posted 176 days ago

My collector uses a clear plastic bag for chip collection. It is installed using the factory setup. To install the factory bag you place the flexable bag holding ring over the plastic bag (about 6 inches down from the top of the bag) to install you wrap the bag down over the ring (similar to rolling down a pair of socks). then place one edge of the ring into the lower chamber of the dust collector. then you press on the ring and it will bend inward allowing the entire bag to be installed into the collector. To remove a bag 3/4 full of dust I just press on the side of the plastic bag near the bottom of the flexable ring and “pop” it inward allowing the bag to be removed, I carry this bag outside and slip a 55 gallon trash bag over this clear bag. I then invert this and dump the dust into the 55 gallon bag. I have NEVER removed the factory top air filter since it was installed. I hope this helps – mine is a simple setup to remove chips – I am assuming that your system is the factory setup as delivered.

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Bill7255

134 posts in 883 days


#5 posted 176 days ago

I have the same DC. I installed a Wynn filter and used the outside band from the top bag to attach the clear bag on the bottom. I am guessing you can buy the band aftermarket at a reasonable price.

-- Bill R

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Fred Hargis

1644 posts in 1091 days


#6 posted 176 days ago

That bag needs to be completely sealed around the ring. Any leakage will just let dust back into the air. I doubt a ratchet strap would work, you really need a band clamp. Emptying the cloth bag is a huge PITA, consider putting plastic bags on it that allow you to remove and dispose. You will need heavier one than trash bags, something 3-4 mil thick contractor bags.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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gtbuzz

342 posts in 1040 days


#7 posted 176 days ago

Congrats on the purchase. I had this dust collector in the past so I can answer a few if your questions.

  • Personally, I liked the snap ring for holding the bag in more than the giant band clamp method (I had both). True, the snap ring was a little bit of a pain to get out, but it was quicker to get in and I felt sealed things better. The trick to make sure you don’t let it get more than 2/3 full or else you’re going to be hating life. The reason I didn’t like the band clamp as much was because it was more difficult to get a good seal. Remember that this is a positive pressure section of the system, so if you don’t have a good seal, you could have dust leaking out. My solution with that was to just wrap it with some wide painters tape. I don’t think you have to worry about the bag ripping
  • This dust collector definitely performed better with 6” ducting as opposed to 4”, but I dunno if id go running out buying a bunch of 6” ducting. Free is free.
  • you were right on the blast gates. Place them as close as possible to the branch, not the tool.
  • Eventually I would upgrade that filter to a Wynn nano cartridge (I used a c1425). They will be much more efficient at capturing the fines. Plus the surface area is about 2.5x that of that cartridge so you’ll get better airflow too

Also sometime down the road, I would look I into adding a Thien baffle or some other type of separator. Will really help keep the filter clear. If you add the Wynn cartridge, definitely add some first stage. You don’t want to plug that guy up.

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

519 posts in 668 days


#8 posted 176 days ago

I was involved in your last thread, so nice to see you pulled the trigger on the neighbors Jet.

I really hate to be negative, because your purchase is awesome, but I fear that if you hard duct your whole shop with this unit, it will be underpowered. Kinda like your old shop vac setup. Like you I have a bad back and dont want to wheel around heavy things and bend. In fact for me, bending is simply not even an option. To get around this I used hard ducting and 45s to bring all of my dust ports on the tools to a proper height, then move my dustright slinky hose from tool to tool. Still a minor pain, but I dont have to bend at all and the hose is a lot lighter then the DC itself. For me anyway, the dream would be hard 6 inch ducting to all my tools, with motorized auto blast gates and remote, but I dont have a few grand to shell out.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

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mantwi

298 posts in 494 days


#9 posted 176 days ago

Like the Box Whisperer said a 6” main would go a long way towards getting the performance this machine is capable of. Keep the drops as short as possible to minimize the choke factor reducing the line will have on performance.

View Medickep's profile

Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


#10 posted 176 days ago

I’m solo dad for four days, so I’ll have some time to contemplate this before I setup. Please know I’m looking at all of the tips and I really appreciate it. It’s wired for 220, which I think I’ll leave it at. It’s just going to delay some test I’ll run before I install my system.

-- Keith

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

179 posts in 267 days


#11 posted 176 days ago

I have the newer version of this Jet DC with the vortex cone in it. My shop area is very small, so instead of trying to make up a hard line setup, I decided to just move the DC to the machine I am using. I have all my machines setup with the Dust Rite connectors and I have the Jet DC connected with a section of flex tubing and the quick connect handle. I just roll the Jet over, close but out of the way, to the machine in use and connect it. This keeps the airflow up and when it’s not in use I roll it into a corner, out of the way.

The way I have my shop set up I don’t have to move it very far and for my jointer/planer, which makes the most chips, I don’t move it at all because I have to move the machine out from the wall to use it. I am happy with this setup and it works great for me.

-- Earl

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Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


#12 posted 175 days ago

The box whisperer-

I hope you’re wrong in this case :-) but I plan to do some low work test runs before I mount anything. It’s currently wired for 220, so I need to address that before I can even test it!!

Also, are you using multiple dust right hoses connected to one another to reach your different tools?? If so, this seems like it would be lest effective than a 10’ hard duct run!

-- Keith

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

179 posts in 267 days


#13 posted 175 days ago

Keith, I connect the flex hose from the DC directly to whichever machine I am using, except for the router table. I have a short piece from the Incra Clean Sweep box to a connector with a 2 1/2 inch port then to the flex hose from the DC.

-- Earl

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Medickep

312 posts in 336 days


#14 posted 175 days ago

retfr8flyr-

Was your reason cost, convenience or the fact it wasn’t strong enough to draw through a system.

-- Keith

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retfr8flyr

179 posts in 267 days


#15 posted 175 days ago

I am limited to 110v for the DC, as I don’t have 220v outlets on that side of my garage. I use a long extension cord for the 220v and connect it to the machine I am using. I wanted the best flow I could get from the 110v DC so that’s why I move it to the machine I am using. I keep the flex length connection short and it’s convenient for me to do it this way.

-- Earl

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