Storage table hinge question

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Forum topic by GussieG posted 01-29-2014 05:08 PM 1403 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 1002 days

01-29-2014 05:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question hinge table

I posted this on the GardenWeb woodworking forum, as i often visit other forums on GardenWeb. Realized I might get tons more input here on Lumberjocks…

I am planning to build a long, narrow wooden table that will go between the sofa and the wall. It will be 26” tall, 16” deep and 111” long. To make it easier to maneuver, I plan to construct it in three sections of 37” in length.
I would like for each of these 37” sections to have a hinged top so I can use the space behind the sofa/under the table for storage. I plan to use flush-mount ring pulls right near the sofa back to open the 37” table tops, and I will factor in some small notches in the table top edge for lamp cords.

I thought the hinge would be an easy thing. At first I thought of a piano hinge with some sort of stay that will prevent the table top from slamming closed, but I don’t want the table top (when closed) to have space between the sofa back and the wall so a piano hinge will not work. Right?

Is there a hinge that would work in this situation? Once I find a hinge, I can better figure out the construction of the table support.

Thanks in advance! I am ready to finalize my plans so I can get started on the build.


4 replies so far

View NoLongerHere's profile


893 posts in 2097 days

#1 posted 01-29-2014 09:24 PM

ok, I’ll swing at it.

a piano hinge would work if you used a 1 1/2” x 3/4’ cleat laid flat against the wall on top of a full length 1×4 nailer under it. The cleat and piano hinge would give you a little angle in the open position, eliminating the lid stays.

If you don’t want to see anything but an 1/8” space from the wall, you could install the 1×4 nailer and mount pocket hinges with a 3/4 overlay. Not in love with this idea, especially with a pine cleat but it works.

I’d just drill thumb holes and route them round…save your money on the ring pulls. why high light it?

uh… are you supporting the front?

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Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2272 days

#2 posted 01-29-2014 09:38 PM

Well, ahem, I happen to have these hinges for sale. They do what you’re asking:



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2391 days

#3 posted 01-29-2014 11:43 PM

Assuming this is a conventional table with legs and an apron running around it you could make an L shape rear apron with a slight chamfer to hold the piano hinge and it would allow an overhang on the top.
If the top does overhang you could just lift the flaps by lifting at the overhang on the front.

View GussieG's profile


2 posts in 1002 days

#4 posted 05-23-2014 05:24 PM

Wow. Sorry I disappeared for so long, but life got in the way. I am finally starting to build the tables this weekend. Figure I’ll start with building one of these tables, adjust as necessary, and go from there.

Right now the plan is to build a small apron under the top, which would allow me to use hinges like Lee is/was selling. Mark, good call on the ring pulls. I have scrapped that idea. I just plan to reach under the tabletop to open the “lid.”

As you can likely tell, I am a beginner. And I don’t have much room to work. I figure this should be a good learning experience if nothing else.


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