Inserting router in table saw leaf

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Forum topic by DangerDoug posted 01-27-2014 10:19 AM 1853 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View DangerDoug's profile


72 posts in 1609 days

01-27-2014 10:19 AM

Need to consolidate some of the equipment at the shop – what is a good way in insert a heavy router, motor down in a table saw leaf?

Guessing they sell plastic ones, but what about a 12” x 12” x 1/4” Alum. plate?
Is the common method just drill appropriate holes in plate and router the 12” x 12” plate back down flush with table saw leaf ?

Open for ideas.

11 replies so far

View sprucegum's profile


324 posts in 1960 days

#1 posted 01-27-2014 12:23 PM

Yes that is about it, some of the plastic ones have inserts that can be removed around the router bit to allow for a larger bit. I had mine in the table saw for quite a few years but I finally built a table because it seemed that every time I got the router set up for a job I needed the table saw and the router was in the way. Personally if space was a problem I would go with a bench top router table that could be stowed under a bench or on a shelf when not in use.

-- A tube of calk and a gallon of paint will make a carpenter what he ain't

View retfr8flyr's profile


384 posts in 1631 days

#2 posted 01-27-2014 02:07 PM

Incra makes a table to replace the leaf in a saw, so do some other company’s, that may be a better option. I have the Incra table in my saw and with the Incra fence setup it’s not that inconvenient.

-- Earl

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2813 days

#3 posted 01-27-2014 03:13 PM

The plate is one way to do it. I’ve also seen a stock cast iron “leaf” machined on the bottom to accept the router, with the attachment screws countersunk in the surface. My tablesaw leaf is laminate over chipboard and I attached the router base as above.

The plate itself is not a necessity.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View bladeburner's profile


88 posts in 3049 days

#4 posted 01-27-2014 03:20 PM

2 of my router tables (2 of 4) have aluminum plates. 1 is MLCS and 1 is Rockler. Although the plates are different sizes, the inserts are interchangeable. Bought both on sale (1/2 off) then built the tables. One is in the TS wing extension slot and the others are standalone. None have lifts, but all have Keen DC.

A word of caution: unless the plate is pre-drilled for your base like the Rockler is for my 890, I suggest you use a template bushing and centering pin to locate the base mounting holes. Both of the ones mentioned above ship a template bushing insert with the plates.

Never has the TS extension table interfered with my TS operations. However, it’s router table fence has interfered with router table operations! That’s when I built the 2nd table, but my workaround for the R/T fence issue was/is ‘reset sticks’. ‘Reset sticks’ are a pair of 2” wide pieces marked with the fence to miter slot distance.

View john111's profile


70 posts in 1948 days

#5 posted 01-27-2014 03:31 PM

I added a laminate extension to my saw then cut the hole for the plate. The plate is made from some thicker 1” plexi I had that I routed down to 3/8 where the router is mounted. I mounted that to the laminate and it works well. The best thing about it all is that it was all pretty much free. I had all the stuff laying around. The above posts I am sure are much better but I do not have the money for those plates. They are rather expensive and I think you really don’t need them. I made the fence from some scrap with one t-track and hold down clamp. That was the largest expense.

-- john111

View DangerDoug's profile


72 posts in 1609 days

#6 posted 01-28-2014 08:59 AM

Thanks for the good ideas!
Never heard of Incra, but buying is an option – if not too expensive.
The need for a plate: have an monster router in an old kitchen cabinet with a 3/4” ply top now. Used it for years until so much dust built up in it, it would not move/twist; and of course, pulling the router up/out would be easier for set up.
I’m pretty good at making circles/disks, thinking round inserts would be the way to go – I’ll make sure to cut an extra disk for a second one.
Will probably have to make new leaf.
Will probably break up the old 36” kitchen cab when finished; need the room now.

View DangerDoug's profile


72 posts in 1609 days

#7 posted 01-28-2014 09:07 AM

btw, ended up with two saws:
Delta 3 belt 10” and a new condition Dewalt 746; the Dewalt does not give you much on the right side as far as a iron table; looks like something is missing.
So have a left and right tilt, now got to squeeze it all in!

View wbrisett's profile


203 posts in 2311 days

#8 posted 01-28-2014 11:18 AM

I have issues with shop size myself, and have been getting by with a portable router table. However this Christmas I took Incra up on the 20% off sale they were having and added their router table to the right wing of my unisaw. Since I already had the Incra rails and positioner, it was simply a matter of purchasing the wing and super fence system. I like it, but haven’t done much joinery with it yet. In fact my attempts at dovetails have been dismal failures (but box joints have been fine). :(

View Bluepine38's profile


3379 posts in 3048 days

#9 posted 01-28-2014 02:42 PM

Ryobi made an aluminum sliding leaf for one of their saws that had a router opening in it. I just drilled some
holes to match my Millwaukee router and mounted it on my Frankensaw. It was not too difficult.

-- As ever, Gus-the 79 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Knothead62's profile


2584 posts in 2923 days

#10 posted 01-28-2014 02:49 PM

I have a TS like Lee Barker describes but the holes don’t match up with my router. Probably the holes are for a router made by the TS manufacturer. Working on that project right now. All I need to do is figure out how to secure the top to the rails.

View DangerDoug's profile


72 posts in 1609 days

#11 posted 01-03-2015 12:00 PM

Been wanted to thanks some folks for the good ideas! Did not insert the router in the saw leaf after all, but had an old Radial-arm steel base (heavy gauge) and added two layers of plywood.
Which is now the same height as the table saw and great for handing large and full size sheets through the table saw.

Was very surprised how much plexi thickness varies, even small pieces; so added 4 hex head wood screws in this table’s ring-lip for fine tuning the height.

Also – would not recommend a circle cutout as shown; which was easier then square plate to work with but will spin without additional set screws (4).

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