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Inserting router in table saw leaf

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Forum topic by DangerDoug posted 176 days ago 561 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DangerDoug

61 posts in 242 days


176 days ago

Need to consolidate some of the equipment at the shop – what is a good way in insert a heavy router, motor down in a table saw leaf?

Guessing they sell plastic ones, but what about a 12” x 12” x 1/4” Alum. plate?
Is the common method just drill appropriate holes in plate and router the 12” x 12” plate back down flush with table saw leaf ?

Open for ideas.


10 replies so far

View sprucegum's profile

sprucegum

323 posts in 593 days


#1 posted 176 days ago

Yes that is about it, some of the plastic ones have inserts that can be removed around the router bit to allow for a larger bit. I had mine in the table saw for quite a few years but I finally built a table because it seemed that every time I got the router set up for a job I needed the table saw and the router was in the way. Personally if space was a problem I would go with a bench top router table that could be stowed under a bench or on a shelf when not in use.

-- A tube of calk and a gallon of paint will make a carpenter what he ain't

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

178 posts in 265 days


#2 posted 176 days ago

Incra makes a table to replace the leaf in a saw, so do some other company’s, that may be a better option. I have the Incra table in my saw and with the Incra fence setup it’s not that inconvenient.

-- Earl

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1446 days


#3 posted 176 days ago

The plate is one way to do it. I’ve also seen a stock cast iron “leaf” machined on the bottom to accept the router, with the attachment screws countersunk in the surface. My tablesaw leaf is laminate over chipboard and I attached the router base as above.

The plate itself is not a necessity.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View bladeburner's profile

bladeburner

88 posts in 1683 days


#4 posted 176 days ago

2 of my router tables (2 of 4) have aluminum plates. 1 is MLCS and 1 is Rockler. Although the plates are different sizes, the inserts are interchangeable. Bought both on sale (1/2 off) then built the tables. One is in the TS wing extension slot and the others are standalone. None have lifts, but all have Keen DC.

A word of caution: unless the plate is pre-drilled for your base like the Rockler is for my 890, I suggest you use a template bushing and centering pin to locate the base mounting holes. Both of the ones mentioned above ship a template bushing insert with the plates.

Never has the TS extension table interfered with my TS operations. However, it’s router table fence has interfered with router table operations! That’s when I built the 2nd table, but my workaround for the R/T fence issue was/is ‘reset sticks’. ‘Reset sticks’ are a pair of 2” wide pieces marked with the fence to miter slot distance.

View john111's profile

john111

65 posts in 581 days


#5 posted 176 days ago

I added a laminate extension to my saw then cut the hole for the plate. The plate is made from some thicker 1” plexi I had that I routed down to 3/8 where the router is mounted. I mounted that to the laminate and it works well. The best thing about it all is that it was all pretty much free. I had all the stuff laying around. The above posts I am sure are much better but I do not have the money for those plates. They are rather expensive and I think you really don’t need them. I made the fence from some scrap with one t-track and hold down clamp. That was the largest expense.

-- john111

View DangerDoug's profile

DangerDoug

61 posts in 242 days


#6 posted 175 days ago

Thanks for the good ideas!
Never heard of Incra, but buying is an option – if not too expensive.
The need for a plate: have an monster router in an old kitchen cabinet with a 3/4” ply top now. Used it for years until so much dust built up in it, it would not move/twist; and of course, pulling the router up/out would be easier for set up.
I’m pretty good at making circles/disks, thinking round inserts would be the way to go – I’ll make sure to cut an extra disk for a second one.
Will probably have to make new leaf.
Will probably break up the old 36” kitchen cab when finished; need the room now.

View DangerDoug's profile

DangerDoug

61 posts in 242 days


#7 posted 175 days ago

btw, ended up with two saws:
Delta 3 belt 10” and a new condition Dewalt 746; the Dewalt does not give you much on the right side as far as a iron table; looks like something is missing.
So have a left and right tilt, now got to squeeze it all in!

View wbrisett's profile

wbrisett

133 posts in 944 days


#8 posted 175 days ago

I have issues with shop size myself, and have been getting by with a portable router table. However this Christmas I took Incra up on the 20% off sale they were having and added their router table to the right wing of my unisaw. Since I already had the Incra rails and positioner, it was simply a matter of purchasing the wing and super fence system. I like it, but haven’t done much joinery with it yet. In fact my attempts at dovetails have been dismal failures (but box joints have been fine). :(

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2876 posts in 1681 days


#9 posted 175 days ago

Ryobi made an aluminum sliding leaf for one of their saws that had a router opening in it. I just drilled some
holes to match my Millwaukee router and mounted it on my Frankensaw. It was not too difficult.

-- As ever, Gus-the 75 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2340 posts in 1557 days


#10 posted 175 days ago

I have a TS like Lee Barker describes but the holes don’t match up with my router. Probably the holes are for a router made by the TS manufacturer. Working on that project right now. All I need to do is figure out how to secure the top to the rails.

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