More Bandsaw Tuning

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by drpdrp posted 222 days ago 691 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

222 days ago

I bought a little Craftsman bandsaw on clearance a few weeks ago from the ol Sears. It was a return item, but they said if it didn’t work I could bring it back.

Brought it home, had some trouble setting it up (I think this is why it was returned- the tension spring for the blade tightness knob had been removed and it was a serious hassle to get it back on) and yay I had a bandsaw- even if it was a little one.

Over the course of a handful of uses it became less and less true. Developed massive blade wander etc. So I fiddled with stuff- and it seems to be cutting straighter- but it now makes a loud squeeling when it cuts.

Suggestions on what I did wrong? It is as tight as it is capable of being adjusted to- can the blade be stretched?


23 replies so far

View SuperCubber's profile


251 posts in 918 days

#1 posted 222 days ago

Check this out… If you have the 10 inch, this may help:

View ScottKaye's profile


276 posts in 587 days

#2 posted 222 days ago

is your blade still sharp? I dull blade will cause you all kinds of fits as it will wander every which direction

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View pmayer's profile


566 posts in 1699 days

#3 posted 222 days ago

I suspect that you have too much tension on it which is causing it to make the noise that you are describing. You can back off on the tension while it is running to verify this. I’d suggest getting a good blade for it (I like Timberwolf), and going with a 3 or 4 tpi configuration unless you are planning to cut really thin stock. When you install the blade, don’t over tension it. Just tighten it until it runs without fluttering, then only 1/2 turn more or so. My dad uses a saw that is similar to that, and after he upgraded to a Timberwolf blade he has had great results.

-- PaulMayer,

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#4 posted 221 days ago

That article is awesome and I am going to test that stuff today.

How do you tell if a bandsaw blade is sharp?

Thanks guys!

View LazyHorse's profile


23 posts in 243 days

#5 posted 221 days ago

I was having trouble with blade drift. Put a new blade on and presto. This came in very handy too.

-- "Yer young, you got yer health, what do you want with a JOB?"

View Surfside's profile


3085 posts in 807 days

#6 posted 221 days ago

”How do you tell if a bandsaw blade is sharp?”
Push down your thumb on the teeth and when you see blood pouring out, there you can tell if the blade is sharp.
No, that’s not right, what I usually do is just rub my finger over the teeth, to tell if it sharp as new or not. You can see the difference on the finish of the cuts.
If you’re getting inaccurate or rough cuts, you have bad/ dull blade.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#7 posted 220 days ago

If I can bog down the motor (granted it is just a little thing) cutting 2x pine stock… the blade is prolly dulll right?

View pmayer's profile


566 posts in 1699 days

#8 posted 220 days ago

Perhaps, but it is difficult to assess without knowing your feed rate and the tooth configuration of your blade. I go back to my original suggestion to buy a new 3 TPI blade to rule that out prior to further tuning and troubleshooting actions. A Timberwolf or similar blade for that saw will be relatively inexpensive, and will dramatically increase the usefulness of the machine. You will be amazed at the difference.

-- PaulMayer,

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#9 posted 219 days ago

I hope to make it to sears today. I just tried to give it one last whole hearted try yesterday and was stymied!

View pmayer's profile


566 posts in 1699 days

#10 posted 219 days ago

I wouldn’t suggest buying your blade from Sears. I’d go to Rockler, Woodcraft, or here:

Good bandsaw blades are one of the least expensive luxuries for a shop.

-- PaulMayer,

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#11 posted 219 days ago

As it turned out Sears only had a Craftsman in stock and I was pretty sure it was the same one that shipped with the saw. As a side note- they offered a Timberwolf online- but not in the store.

I decided to make it a day and went to Woodcraft (how did you know??) and bought two blades. I will be trying them in a bit. I am silly excited!

View NormG's profile


4112 posts in 1638 days

#12 posted 219 days ago

View the Alex Snodgrass video as listed above, Will make a big difference

-- Norman

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#13 posted 217 days ago

You know that saying about how it is a poor craftsman that blames his tools? Well I don’t want to be that guy and I need help.

Maybe my sense of what pinky pressure is needs work, but my gut tells me the blade is way too loose. My eyes also believe this as it wants to deflect and twist the second it hits the wood. Oh it will cut a bit if I hit it dead on- but then it is immediately riding that rear bearing. I’ve got the adjustment knob turned until the spring has compressed to the point of essentially locking.

What do you guys think I am doing wrong?

Sidenote on the blades. Turned out I bought the wrong thing at Woodcraft. I needed a 62.5 not a 70.5- I am dumb. So I had to drive back up and return those. They don’t stock this size so I wound up back at the home stores where I bought a Vermont. 6tpi 3/8th. It might be a shitty blade, but it is sharp enough that my hands are unhappy from handling it- and it ought to be able to function if not excel right?

View mpounders's profile


728 posts in 1529 days

#14 posted 217 days ago

It is supposed to hit that rear bearing. It’s called the thrust bearing and should be adjusted forward to keep the teeth of the blade outside of the guide blocks. The guide blocks are adjusted close to the sides of the blades to keep it from twisting. The thrust bearings are adjusted so that they don’t turn when you aren’t feeding wood into the blade, but the slightest pressure on the blade will and should cause them to start turning. It sure sounds like you may not have things adjusted quite right. You might search a bit for better instructions on tuning up your bandsaw. You shouldn’t have to tighten the blade that much and it is better for the blade if you release the tension on the blade if you are not going to be using it for a while. Leaving the blade tensioned for long periods will eventually stretch the blade, cause flat spots to develope on the rubber tires, will cause the tension spring to loose it’s strength, and may even fatigue the metal parts in the saw. It may seem to be a pain, but it is better for your blade and the saw.

-- Mike P., Arkansas,

View drpdrp's profile


150 posts in 680 days

#15 posted 217 days ago

Hhhmmm let me go hit this all again.

I think I thought that “generally during use” you didn’t hit those blocks.

showing 1 through 15 of 23 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics :: gardening showcase