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Forum topic by drpdrp posted 01-20-2014 12:05 AM 757 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


01-20-2014 12:05 AM

I bought a little Craftsman bandsaw on clearance a few weeks ago from the ol Sears. It was a return item, but they said if it didn’t work I could bring it back.

Brought it home, had some trouble setting it up (I think this is why it was returned- the tension spring for the blade tightness knob had been removed and it was a serious hassle to get it back on) and yay I had a bandsaw- even if it was a little one.

Over the course of a handful of uses it became less and less true. Developed massive blade wander etc. So I fiddled with stuff- and it seems to be cutting straighter- but it now makes a loud squeeling when it cuts.

Suggestions on what I did wrong? It is as tight as it is capable of being adjusted to- can the blade be stretched?

Thanks,
T


23 replies so far

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

360 posts in 1037 days


#1 posted 01-20-2014 01:28 AM

Check this out… If you have the 10 inch, this may help: http://blog.woodscrub.info/2008/01/tuning-craftsman-10-band-saw.html?m=1

View ScottKaye's profile

ScottKaye

312 posts in 705 days


#2 posted 01-20-2014 01:30 AM

is your blade still sharp? I dull blade will cause you all kinds of fits as it will wander every which direction

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

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pmayer

609 posts in 1817 days


#3 posted 01-20-2014 01:59 AM

I suspect that you have too much tension on it which is causing it to make the noise that you are describing. You can back off on the tension while it is running to verify this. I’d suggest getting a good blade for it (I like Timberwolf), and going with a 3 or 4 tpi configuration unless you are planning to cut really thin stock. When you install the blade, don’t over tension it. Just tighten it until it runs without fluttering, then only 1/2 turn more or so. My dad uses a saw that is similar to that, and after he upgraded to a Timberwolf blade he has had great results.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#4 posted 01-20-2014 06:56 PM

That article is awesome and I am going to test that stuff today.

How do you tell if a bandsaw blade is sharp?

Thanks guys!

View LazyHorse's profile

LazyHorse

25 posts in 361 days


#5 posted 01-20-2014 07:55 PM

I was having trouble with blade drift. Put a new blade on and presto. This came in very handy too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

-- "Yer young, you got yer health, what do you want with a JOB?"

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3372 posts in 926 days


#6 posted 01-20-2014 08:12 PM

”How do you tell if a bandsaw blade is sharp?”
Push down your thumb on the teeth and when you see blood pouring out, there you can tell if the blade is sharp.
No, that’s not right, what I usually do is just rub my finger over the teeth, to tell if it sharp as new or not. You can see the difference on the finish of the cuts.
If you’re getting inaccurate or rough cuts, you have bad/ dull blade.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#7 posted 01-21-2014 10:08 PM

If I can bog down the motor (granted it is just a little thing) cutting 2x pine stock… the blade is prolly dulll right?

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pmayer

609 posts in 1817 days


#8 posted 01-22-2014 12:49 PM

Perhaps, but it is difficult to assess without knowing your feed rate and the tooth configuration of your blade. I go back to my original suggestion to buy a new 3 TPI blade to rule that out prior to further tuning and troubleshooting actions. A Timberwolf or similar blade for that saw will be relatively inexpensive, and will dramatically increase the usefulness of the machine. You will be amazed at the difference.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#9 posted 01-22-2014 02:07 PM

I hope to make it to sears today. I just tried to give it one last whole hearted try yesterday and was stymied!

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pmayer

609 posts in 1817 days


#10 posted 01-22-2014 02:14 PM

I wouldn’t suggest buying your blade from Sears. I’d go to Rockler, Woodcraft, or here: http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

Good bandsaw blades are one of the least expensive luxuries for a shop.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#11 posted 01-23-2014 01:47 AM

As it turned out Sears only had a Craftsman in stock and I was pretty sure it was the same one that shipped with the saw. As a side note- they offered a Timberwolf online- but not in the store.

I decided to make it a day and went to Woodcraft (how did you know??) and bought two blades. I will be trying them in a bit. I am silly excited!

View NormG's profile

NormG

4537 posts in 1756 days


#12 posted 01-23-2014 02:09 AM

View the Alex Snodgrass video as listed above, Will make a big difference

-- Norman

View drpdrp's profile

drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#13 posted 01-24-2014 08:17 PM

You know that saying about how it is a poor craftsman that blames his tools? Well I don’t want to be that guy and I need help.

Maybe my sense of what pinky pressure is needs work, but my gut tells me the blade is way too loose. My eyes also believe this as it wants to deflect and twist the second it hits the wood. Oh it will cut a bit if I hit it dead on- but then it is immediately riding that rear bearing. I’ve got the adjustment knob turned until the spring has compressed to the point of essentially locking.

What do you guys think I am doing wrong?

Sidenote on the blades. Turned out I bought the wrong thing at Woodcraft. I needed a 62.5 not a 70.5- I am dumb. So I had to drive back up and return those. They don’t stock this size so I wound up back at the home stores where I bought a Vermont. 6tpi 3/8th. It might be a shitty blade, but it is sharp enough that my hands are unhappy from handling it- and it ought to be able to function if not excel right?

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mpounders

750 posts in 1648 days


#14 posted 01-24-2014 10:59 PM

It is supposed to hit that rear bearing. It’s called the thrust bearing and should be adjusted forward to keep the teeth of the blade outside of the guide blocks. The guide blocks are adjusted close to the sides of the blades to keep it from twisting. The thrust bearings are adjusted so that they don’t turn when you aren’t feeding wood into the blade, but the slightest pressure on the blade will and should cause them to start turning. It sure sounds like you may not have things adjusted quite right. You might search a bit for better instructions on tuning up your bandsaw. You shouldn’t have to tighten the blade that much and it is better for the blade if you release the tension on the blade if you are not going to be using it for a while. Leaving the blade tensioned for long periods will eventually stretch the blade, cause flat spots to develope on the rubber tires, will cause the tension spring to loose it’s strength, and may even fatigue the metal parts in the saw. It may seem to be a pain, but it is better for your blade and the saw.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

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drpdrp

150 posts in 798 days


#15 posted 01-25-2014 01:53 AM

Hhhmmm let me go hit this all again.

I think I thought that “generally during use” you didn’t hit those blocks.

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