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Forum topic by firstbase posted 189 days ago 377 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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firstbase

35 posts in 531 days


189 days ago

Purchased 2 Jorgensen 41012 quick release vises which I am installing on my first bench build. One as a face vise and other as an end vise. My bench top is laminated SYP 2×4’s cut down to 3” thick This model vise has a 3 1/2” by 10” jaw.

1. What is the max length of chop/jaw liner can I put on a 10” jaw?. There is no suggested length in the instructions.

2. The instructions show that the top of the jaw should be 1/2”-3/4” below the bench top. This is ok for the face vise but I need to lower the end vise down in order to avoid bolting the rear face into the end grain of the laminated bench top 2/4”s. I am going to add a cross piece underneath from front to rear on the end so I can have side grain to bolt to. However it will be several inches below where they say I should put the bolts. How low can I lower the top of the jaw below bench level before it affects the vise? I see pictures of vises way lower than 3/4” but don’t know if it is ok with this one. I will be mortising the bench top so the rear face is will be behind the last board of my bench. I plan on wrapping the bench with some oak or maple. Not sure how thick at this point (haven’t built the top yet).

3. In reference to #2 above, is bolting through the rear face into the end grain a really bad thing to do or just not as acceptable as into side grain?

Thanks in advance for any comments!


5 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1644 posts in 1092 days


#1 posted 189 days ago

I have that vise, one is the 10” jaw, the second is the smaller one (7”?). Anyway, second question first, I have no problem with the bolts going into the end grain, but my bench is an unknown hardwood (maple, I think….it’s a purchased bench top). Not sure if your concern is wood movement (not a problem, the span is small enough to not worry about) or gripping (substitute longer screws if you want). The real holding is done by the bolts that fasten through the top, think of the end grain screws as being levelers. As for the jaw max, I suppose it could be considerably more than the 10” . If I had done that, I think I would have recessed the whole vise assembly so the face of the rear jaw was flush with the edge of the bench.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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firstbase

35 posts in 531 days


#2 posted 189 days ago

Thanks. My concern is that the instructions said not to go into end grain, that’s it! HAd I not had the instrucitons I’m not sure if I would have even thought about it. I am bolting through the bench and recessing the vice so the rear jaw is flush. Actually it will be covered by oak I use to wrap the entire bench. I was thinking 16” on the length of the jaw liner/chop. 3” beyond each end. I would think that is ok. How about amount of jaw liner above the top of the front jaw? Instructions show only 1” or so but I would think that this could be increased significantly? At some point it gets so high above the front jaw supporting it that it will start to cause flex maybe?

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Fred Hargis

1644 posts in 1092 days


#3 posted 188 days ago

I should have mentioned that. I set mine so the metal jaws are about 3/16”-1/4” below the bench surface, then the wooden jaws are flush with the top of the bench. he only reason I did it that way was to make sure the metal jaws were far enough away that I didn’t accidentally hit them with some kind of edged tool. I think to some extant the extension of your wood jaws past the metal ones may depend on how thick the outer wood jaw is. If it’s an inch or so thick I can’t imagine the 3” extension being too much. If you think it’s too high, you could put a couple of short lag bolts down through the wood to stiffen it (countersink the top of them). I think 1” wouldn’t be a problem if it’s a good hard wood.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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firstbase

35 posts in 531 days


#4 posted 188 days ago

I’m going to make the wood jaws about 2 1/2” thick each. This will cut down the jaw opening width a little but will still let me have 8” or so which should be good for me. With them that thick I am thinking that 3” above the jaw would be ok….but that’s just me thinking which is dangerous..!

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Fred Hargis

1644 posts in 1092 days


#5 posted 188 days ago

I’d guess a piece 3” thick will handle just about anything you do with no problems.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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