Glue PVC to Wood

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Forum topic by Gerald posted 01-17-2014 07:52 PM 5521 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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51 posts in 1814 days

01-17-2014 07:52 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question blast gate dust collection

I’m in the midst of installing a PVC piped dust collection (DC) system and want to build most, if not all, of my blast gates using the appropriate (4” & 6” mostly) PVC pipe and/or couplings. Some of these I want to configure to mount directly on the tool being served. The question at-hand is, “What is the best and structurally strongest adhesive to use to bond PVC to wood?” I’m considering epoxy, polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue), thick cyanoacrylate (Super Glue), and floor laying construction adhesive and plan to test all of them with small samples. At this point the construction adhesive idea is the most appealing because it’s inexpensive, is easy to apply with a caulk gun, fills voids and has an attractive set-up time which should be minimally effected by the currently cold temperatures.

This article ( describes the process in some detail.

I would appreciate the benefit of your experiences, knowledge, and suggestions.

-- Gerald, Rural North Central Arkansas

32 replies so far

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#1 posted 01-17-2014 08:16 PM

When you can buy them this cheap, why make them unless you just want to.

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#2 posted 01-17-2014 08:19 PM

Here are some gates I made:

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Fred Hargis

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#3 posted 01-17-2014 08:39 PM

Most all of my gates are shop built using that design. But I didn’t try to glue them. Instead I used sheet metal screws. 2 screws inside the opening of the PVC running into the pieces called “gate housing” is what holds mine in place. Is you use 1/2” screws and a ratchet with a short driver bit, it’s not too bad on 4”...and a piece of cake on 6” (I used 3 screws on the 6” ones. Then I caulked the joint with silicone. I’m not sure if the construction adhesive will work as an adhesive ( I think it will work as a caulk). Finding anything to stick to PVC isn’t easy, that’s why they have that special plumbing adhesive to use. You might try that, to see if it will stick to wood. The shop built are clearly superior to the black plastic ones available. They will give you a full 4” opening, and no corners to clog. The aluminum ones are much better, but also more costly. I also screwed those 2 pieces called housing together, with wood screws. Using screws allows you some adjustment on the tightness of the sliding gate. Use a hand plane to make the fit tighter, or a piece of masking tape to loosen it up.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Don Butler

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#4 posted 01-17-2014 08:55 PM



-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

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#5 posted 01-17-2014 08:59 PM

I built adapters for some of my tools to attach a dust collector hose, where I used a small piece of plywood attached to the tool by a couple screws, with some weather stripping on the back. A short piece of PVC pipe is installed in a hole in the middle, adhered by 2 part epoxy around the circumference. I have done this several time successfully and have yet to experience a failure.

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51 posts in 1814 days

#6 posted 01-17-2014 09:50 PM

Thanks for the replys, guys.

Kevin, I want to stay away from the clogging issues that go along with the non-through gates of most of the prefabricated blast gates, plastic and cast aluminum and the thru-gate types are more expensive than I’d like to pay. This and the 6” ones are both expensive and difficult to source. I haven’t tried cutting off portions of the plastic ones (back corners or the whole back edge) to open escape routes for trapped dust/chips. My shop is a hobby and much of what I like to do most is work on the shop and improvements to it. That’s why, when people ask me what I make, I tell them saw dust and wood chips. As I indicated earlier, I also want to build some of the blast gates onto the side of the tool it will serve and/or as an integral part of a fabricated shroud. So, if I’m going to be building some of my blast gates, I may as well build them all and still need to decide what glue will work best.

Loren, I like your pivoting gate idea and may incorporate a configuration like that overhead where I have three 6” main branches coming together, just ahead of the blower.

-- Gerald, Rural North Central Arkansas

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#7 posted 01-17-2014 09:59 PM

I’ve made PVC to plywood bonds using epoxy. The thing to keep in mind is to make the fit of the PVC in the plywood hole a tight fit Roughen up the PVC before gluing it. There is really no pressure on the joints, so just about any adhesive would work. You can drill some small holes through the end of the PVC and drive a small pin or nail through from the inside into the plywood.

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#8 posted 01-17-2014 10:21 PM

I understand Gerald, glad your able to do that.

Not trying to sell you on the plastic ones but I’ve used mine in my business shop meaning every day for >15 years and never have had any clogging problems. Just saying!

If I were going to make them, I would probably use 3/4” instead of 1/4” for the 7×7 fronts and backs, then I would screw the pvc pipe into them from the inside. ( I think like what Fred was saying)

Another idea would be to buy the cheap plastic blast gate and tear it in half, then attach each half to your plywood and use them just as the flange to attach your hose to.

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51 posts in 1814 days

#9 posted 01-17-2014 10:36 PM

Good idea about attaching the PVC from the inside out into thicker front and back plate stock. May try that using pin nails and construction adhesive to fill any gaps.

-- Gerald, Rural North Central Arkansas

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418 posts in 1755 days

#10 posted 01-17-2014 11:20 PM

Here’s my idea with the plastic blast gates – using each half,
I hope you don’t mind I’m just having fun with Sketchup, maybe something I would build if I got the chance.

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51 posts in 1814 days

#11 posted 01-17-2014 11:48 PM

Looks like you’ve got a pretty good handle on Sketchup, Kevin. What I’m seeing in your drawing is the blue parts are from the cheap plastic blast gate and are used to create the hose connections. The green and red parts are fabricated. For my use, I’d prefer to see the gate (red part) be long enough to include the dust hole in one end and a solid section on the other and screws located to limit gate movement to full open in one direction and full closed in the other. Another option might be to make a fan or partial cresent shaped gate (see Loren’s design) that pivoted about where the center of the storage slot is in your drawing. The fan would have a dust passage hole positioned on one side and be solid on the other. Either design should be self cleaning.

-- Gerald, Rural North Central Arkansas

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#12 posted 01-18-2014 12:04 AM

You do not need to glue the blast gates to the PVC pipe. Just make the ferrules snug and put a screw or two in to hold them in place. Easy to do and easy to change later as inevitable.

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

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#13 posted 01-18-2014 12:16 AM

Well Then…..LOL

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#14 posted 01-18-2014 12:45 AM

Here's another idea for shop made blast gates.

I doubled the 1/2” plywood with a collar for gluing the PVC. I used the plumbers PVC glue applied liberally to the PVC and the wood. It seems to be holding up although I haven’t tried to destructuively test them to see how much they can take.

-- Garry, North Carolina woodworker and engineer - The journey you're preparing for has already begun.

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51 posts in 1814 days

#15 posted 01-18-2014 02:18 AM

You’ve got it, Kevin. Now where’s one with the fan type blade?

-- Gerald, Rural North Central Arkansas

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