|Forum topic by keninblaine||posted 01-17-2014 06:15 AM||980 views||0 times favorited||4 replies|
01-17-2014 06:15 AM
I’m making file cabinet drawers for my L-shaped desk project, and decided to make my first attempt at dovetailing. I purchased a MLCS jig and tried it for the first time today.
I’m making my drawers with 1/2” baltic birch. In practicing my first joint today, I found that when trying to set the bit depth to 1/2”, the 14 degree bit is close to binding in the brass guide bushing. In fact, in my first couple of cuts it did snag the inside of the bushing, likely because I didn’t push the bit into the router far enough and it was flexing a little. I pushed it further into the chuck and re-adjusted the depth again to avoid that issue. But it is barely possible to cut 1/2” depth without rising the conflict between the bit and the bushing. I don’t really want to have to add a spacer between the piece and the jig.
My second problem is one that I was afraid of: no matter how slow I try to move the router, I’m still getting chunks of plywood tearing out in places. I clamped a piece of wood at the cut line, but it doesn’t prevent pieces coming off between the dovetail cuts. The straight bit isn’t as bad.
My MLCS jig is mounted on a wood base which I made of oak. I may try clamping another piece of birch plywood to the front of the piece being dovetailed to see if I can avoid the tear-out (the back side is helped by the wood mounting base of the jig). But it makes a cumbersome job even more cumbersome with all the clamping etc.
Am I fighting a losing battle with trying to dovetail Baltic birch? Is so, I may just dowel the joints. They aren’t high profile locations anyway.
-- Ken, Blaine Washington