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Stanley jointer

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Forum topic by missesalot posted 01-16-2014 08:08 AM 1077 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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missesalot

102 posts in 1066 days


01-16-2014 08:08 AM

Hi,
Brand new to woodworking, putting a small collection of hand tools together. I have a couple smooth planes and a jack plane, and figure that next i need a jointer plane. What should i expect to pay for a Stanley No 7 in usable condition. Seems like the ebay prices are wacky. There is a guy locally who has several but wants 85 a piece, still seems high. Seems like i need to get a better deal than 85 on something that still will need work most likely, or, cough up the cash for the Veritas. Thoughts?
Aaron


5 replies so far

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ToddJB

6924 posts in 1598 days


#1 posted 01-16-2014 03:18 PM

Aaron, welcome aboard. Plane pricing is all over the board. If you’re looking for rock bottom prices then garage sales, estate sales, and flee markets are your best bet. Craigslist, pawn shops, antique stores, and ebay, typcially are priced higher.

The other trick, which I implore often, is to not buy stanley if buying from ebay. Stanley is most popular name out there so it’s the most viewed. There were many quality makers of planes back in the day that all made similar bench planes. I found a Sargent 422 (same as a #7) shipped for $30. It needed cleaned up, but everything was there and unbroken.

The third option is, if you want a user, and minimal risk that anything is broken, there are guys around here who do the hunting as a hobby/job and resell them. You could post a WTB (want to buy) add.

Happy hunting.

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

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sikrap

1121 posts in 2826 days


#2 posted 01-16-2014 04:24 PM

$85 is about right fro a plane that has already been cleaned, tuned and sharpened. At least that’s about what I sell them for. There is also some fluctuation based on the vintage, but that price should get you a pretty decent #7 that’s ready to work when you get it.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

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SuperCubber

877 posts in 1752 days


#3 posted 01-17-2014 03:23 AM

Aaron,

I would look up Mark E. on here. He’s always listing planes and is very reasonable with his prices.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

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westevemssr

11 posts in 1371 days


#4 posted 01-17-2014 07:45 AM

Several things to consider when purchasing a Jointer plane. The #7 Jointer, 22”L, 2 3/8”W, 8 1/8lbs, and was made from1869 until1970. The #8 Jointer, 24”L, 2 5/8”W, 9 3/4lbs, and was made from 1869 until 1961. The first thing to consider is if jointing do you want a No. 7 or would you rather go to a No. 8 plane? The #8 plane is 2-inches longer. I like and use the No. 8 more than the No. 7. Next do you want a flat bottom, or a corrugated bottom? Again, I like the No. 8C better than the No. 7 joiner plane. Next is condition of the plane, in fact everything is based on the condition of the plane. A plane 7 or 8 like new in a box will set you back up to $400.00 or even more depending on the completion. In that case buy a new one for around $300.00.

If you decide to buy a used one, take a very flat 24-inch or longer metal ruler with you, some screw drivers to take the plane apart with, and a square, I like a small Starrett machinist square myself. Check for any breaks or cracks in the metal. Especially around the mouth of the plane. If you even suspect one, leave it, the only use is for parts or as a boat anchor. Then check the flatness of the bottom, and squareness of the sides. Rust may or may not matter to you. Rust is easy to remove chemically, with electrolysis, etc. Pitting is not good, but not a major problem for a user plane with today‚Äôs epoxy, I have repaired a pitted plane bottom, and find it works as well as the one that isn’t pitted. It just doesn’t look as nice on the display shelf.

I have found Jointer planes for as low as $15.00 to several hundred. I currently am using a Stanley No. 8C that I paid $125.00 for with shipping. It looks new, and has two full length blades with it, and rosewood handles. It was made just before WWII, and does a wonderful job. I wouldn’t sell it for $500.00 but at my death my wife will probably sell it for scrap metal if my son’s don’t watch her. I hope this gives you some help.

If I can help in any other way, let me know.

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Fettler

200 posts in 1464 days


#5 posted 01-17-2014 08:26 AM

Aaron, if you’re just getting into woodworking I would suggest you get a woodriver #6 and later a #8. I have a #6 which recently replaced my stanley #5+hock blade as a jack plane. I also have a woodriver 4 1/2 smoother which replaced my stanley #4. For my jointer I use a bedrock #608c with a PM-V11 blade; I prefer the weight. I have a pinnacle scrub plane, but I’m not sure it has much advantages over the LN option.

The problem with older planes is they can require a lot of fettling. Pinnacle does make a really thick blade which can resolve frog seating issues, but you’ll likely also have to flatten the sole and address other minor issues. I got to a
point where I decided I like woodworking more than plane restoration.

I don’t like the tote design on veritas planes. The tote angle seems more appropriate for a short person or taller bench ( I’m 6’3”). I hate to admit it but they hurt my wrists to use. Otherwise they’re great planes. Also, I’m not a low angle person (except for block planes).

You’re going to also need some sharpening stones. I’ve recently converted from Norton waterstones with a jig to the Rob Cosman method using shapton stone which was a pretty big investment. I use a grinder with aluminum oxide wheels (see my powertec review) to establish the primary bevel and freehand a secondary/tertiary bevel. Sharpening properly is the biggest skill to master right away IMO.

Also, If you want to save money on engineering squares and t-squared I suggest Ptec brand which you can find on amazon.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

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