Question about tablesaw and miter saw blades...

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Forum topic by gr8outdrsmn posted 12-23-2008 03:50 PM 1272 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View gr8outdrsmn's profile


60 posts in 3448 days

12-23-2008 03:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw tablesaw blade

My father and I are going to be building bathroom and kitchen cabinets for his house, as well as some furniture in the future.

My question is, what blades would you reccomend to give us the best (cleanest) cut since we do not have a jointer to clean up the edges? We have seen up to a 100 tooth blade at Home Depot that runs about $75. Do we need that many teeth, or would we be fine with an 80 or 90? We currently have a 60 tooth blade on the miter saw and it does a fair job, but still tends to splinter the back of the cut occasionally. The tablesaw is a very low tooth count as it has been mainly a rough cut saw. I know we need a higher count, but am not sure what.

The tablesaw is a 10’’ blade and the miter saw is a 12’’ blade.

Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


-- Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive.

6 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4213 days

#1 posted 12-23-2008 04:00 PM

A sharp 60-tooth blade should give you a clean cut if you’re not forcing it too much. If you know your blade is in good condition, I’d try slowing down my rate of cut a little to see if that helps. Yes, a 100-tooth blade should give you a smoother cut, but you will have to be even more careful not to force it.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View SPalm's profile


5320 posts in 3877 days

#2 posted 12-23-2008 04:57 PM

100 tooth is a really really fine blade. I would reserve it for only ply and critical cross-cuts. I doubt you will never be able to rip a hardwood board with it. You mention jointing, which is really only used after ripping.

Good quality blades make a difference. So does alignment. Adding a back-up board or a zero clearence insert will also help a lot. I would recommend trying a Woodworker III and see if that is acceptable.

You can always make a ‘jointer’ with a router. Or use a handplane.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View DaveH's profile


400 posts in 3773 days

#3 posted 12-23-2008 05:43 PM

Take a look at the Freud Glue Line blade for ripping.

For a miter saw or radial arm saw I’d look at the Freud LU91R blade. Negative hook blades reduce the chances of grabbing or overfeeding on radial arm and sliding miter saws. Gives you more control.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

View Woodchuck1957's profile


944 posts in 3759 days

#4 posted 12-23-2008 06:42 PM

If you use a piece of scrap as a backer board you won’t have splintering. Low tooth count for riping is ok, just make sure your fence is aligned properly.

View Al Killian's profile

Al Killian

273 posts in 3748 days

#5 posted 12-23-2008 11:22 PM

I love my Tenryu Rapid Cut 10” 50T Combination Blade. Can cut 8/4 maple or cut 1/4 ply. It leaves a smooth finish that is ready for glueing or next phase.

-- Owner of custom millwork shop

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3817 days

#6 posted 12-24-2008 12:29 AM

I use only Forrest blades on my saws and, while I have the complete line, I find that switching blades from the WWII to the Duraline blade for plywood really is not necessary since the WWII produces a cut that is nearly chip free (as long as it is sharp, of course) and I can also use it to produce a glue line edge when I rip hardwoods.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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