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New Hock Blade, Stanley #7, blade depth adjustment no longer works

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Forum topic by Vududude posted 01-12-2014 04:09 PM 1269 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vududude

41 posts in 1257 days


01-12-2014 04:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: hand plane hock depth adjustment

So I restored an old Stanley #7. The blade and cap iron are usable, but pretty worn down so I ended up buying a Hock blade and cap iron. Overall they are of great quality.

Problem now, however, is that because the blade is thicker the “Y” blade depth adjuster isn’t long enough to fully engage the slot in the cap iron. It only works for a portion of the arc and so I can’t really adjust the depth of the blade.

any thoughts on how I could remedy this?

Would a new replacement frog work? not sure if newer frogs have a longer “Y” adjusting lever.


12 replies so far

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 1504 days


#1 posted 01-12-2014 04:20 PM

Maybe you can braze a couple drops of metal to the tip of the Y adjuster to make it longer, and then when it cools you can file it to the rectangular shape.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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pmayer

864 posts in 2531 days


#2 posted 01-12-2014 04:23 PM

I’d send a note to Ron Hock. He will have some suggestions for sure.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View Loren's profile

Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#3 posted 01-12-2014 04:29 PM

You might consider brazing or soldering a piece of brass
or something like that to the end of the yoke. If you
don’t know how, a lamp repair shop can probably do it.

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Vududude

41 posts in 1257 days


#4 posted 01-12-2014 06:24 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I don’t have any experience brazing or soldering. I did email Ron Hock about it, waiting to hear back. Looking at this frog compared to my #5 frog it does look like the yolk is maybe a little shorter, I’m guessing this is something where even a millimeter makes a difference. Maybe the yoke just got worn down over the years, or it was filed (though not sure why someone would file it)

Would solder be strong enough for this kind of application? I’m assuming that the only think the yoke really does is to move the blade, it doesn’t play any part in keeping the blade from moving, does it?

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Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#5 posted 01-12-2014 06:28 PM

I fixed a loosey-goosey walking foot shoe patcher (sewing machine)
by getting solder stuck to the iron parts. Solder isn’t especially
hard but it will hold up ok I think. It can break off if you don’t
get the soldering right though. My soldering skills are
haphazard so it doesn’t always work for me, but I keep at
it and generally succeed.

View Mark E.'s profile

Mark E.

387 posts in 3208 days


#6 posted 01-12-2014 06:32 PM

If your yoke is shorter than it is supposed to be, it can be replaced. They are held in place by a pin that can be carefully push out with a small punch. You just need to locate a proper replacement.

I have a couple here that I removed from broken frogs. I may have one that is longer than yours. Can you measure from the pin to the end of the yoke?

FYI, I have several planes with Hock irons and either Hock or Veritas cap irons and haven’t had this problem with any of them.

-- Mark

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

515 posts in 1194 days


#7 posted 01-12-2014 06:54 PM

did you open the mouth first this is required when using hock blades

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View Vududude's profile

Vududude

41 posts in 1257 days


#8 posted 01-12-2014 07:17 PM

Mark, I’m watching the 49ers game right now but when I get home I’ll measure it and let you know.

bowedcurly, I still need to get a file to open the mouth a bit, haven’t gotten around to that yet.

View JayG46's profile

JayG46

138 posts in 1324 days


#9 posted 01-12-2014 10:19 PM

As bowedcurley said, you probably just need to open the mouth. I found an old no 7 in my parents barn, bought a Hock iron and couldn’t get it to work properly. After filing the mouth open about 1/16th, shavings came through just fine.

-- Jay Gargiulo, Naples, FL www.swallowtailwoodcraft.com "Once you understand the way broadly, you can see it in all things."- Miyamoto Musashi

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Vududude

41 posts in 1257 days


#10 posted 01-13-2014 07:07 AM

Thanks again for the advice. After playing around with the plane some more with the old and new blade I think it was a combination of things. I’m also new to hand planes so that probably had a lot to do with it.

- I think I probably had my lever cap on a little too tight making it harder for the blade to come down. is there a good rule of thumb about how hard it should be to push down the lever?

- I do think that the yoke on my earlier stanley #7 is about 1/32” shorter than the yoke on my newer #5, so I do think it loses engagement with the cap iron a little sooner when lowering the blade, combined with my lever cap being too tight I think made me feel like the blade was not lowering correctly.

- as several have mentioned I need to widen the mouth of my #7 with a file. Can I ask, for a #7, typically what is the distance do you leave from the blade to the mouth? From one source I had seen it was anywhere from 1/16 to 1/32nd. How do you even measure that, or do you do it by sight?

View Loren's profile

Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#11 posted 01-13-2014 07:21 AM

First you want to set the frog back to the farthest back
position that will bed the iron. Set it too far back and the
plane mouth will push on the iron at the bevel, which
you don’t want… so find that starting point and tighten
the screws. Put your iron back in and you’ll want about
1/16” of light when the iron is protruding a little. I’d
say it’s about the thickness of a penny. You’ll need
about 1/16” for heavier cuts, so put a scratch in the
iron plane body to mark it, remove the iron and file
the mouth open. Since you’ve set the frog back you’ll
be able to close the mouth real tight if you want to
later.

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Vududude

41 posts in 1257 days


#12 posted 01-13-2014 05:25 PM

Loren, thanks! that makes sense. I’ll be getting some files to do this in the next couple of days. Do you also recommend putting a back bevel on the front of the mouth? I’ve read that in a few places.

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