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Grinder Flange Truing - epoxy and machining?

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Forum topic by Live4Brew posted 01-09-2014 02:17 AM 1248 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Live4Brew

34 posts in 2494 days


01-09-2014 02:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: grinder arbor flange truing

After many years of struggling with a wildly vibrating 6” grinder, I decided to purchase an 8” from WoodCraft. However, the more I read on the subject, the more I realize I’m going to be disappointed with the WC grinder performance as well. I will be doing some upgrades including machined washers, steel bushings, and diamond truing (I’m going to make a diamond cutter like the Geiger).

The only thing I haven’t figured out yet is how to better the arbor flange. I’ve read as many threads on the subject as I can find and no one offers the solution I think will be best (other than trying to find some machined flanges that will fit).

I’ve fixed several arbor flanges on other machines (namely table saws) using a carbide bit, a mock tool rest, and a steady hand. It has worked very well. The only issue I see with doing this on the new grinder is that (at least from the grinders I’ve used) the flange is not fixed to the motor shaft.

My idea is to epoxy the flange to the motor shaft (as perpendicular as possible), and then turn the flange true once the epoxy sets.

Anyone else attempted something like this (and/or has other tips?)?


6 replies so far

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waho6o9

7172 posts in 2038 days


#1 posted 01-09-2014 02:49 AM


http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/images/balance_kit_250px.jpg

Interesting thread. A balance kit from one way is all I have right now.

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Live4Brew

34 posts in 2494 days


#2 posted 01-14-2014 01:43 AM

WARNING: for those who try and change the bushing – grinding wheel can easily break!

I was worried about breaking the stone, but knowing that many others have installed steel bushings with no issue, I soldiered on…until it was just too tight and the stone broke in half… so pissed. I just knew it was too tight. Damn grinding wheel companies for forcing us to seek solutions for them cutting corners!

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waho6o9

7172 posts in 2038 days


#3 posted 01-14-2014 01:52 AM

I turned some bushings out of walnut and pressed them in and they
worked fine, actually one’s still in one of the wheels.

A press was used to push in the bushings and it’s tight.

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Live4Brew

34 posts in 2494 days


#4 posted 01-14-2014 02:39 AM

I just looked at the stone again (it’s the stone that came on Wood Craft’s 8” slow speed grinder). Contrary to what I was led to believe, the stones dimensions are metric, not standard. Perhaps this is why the bushing I bought was too tight. The stone’s inside diameter is 25mm. I thought it was an 1”.

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Live4Brew

34 posts in 2494 days


#5 posted 01-15-2014 08:08 PM

Ok, after spending more hours than most of you think are sane, I’ve finally got a grinder running very true. After removing the stamped steel POS flanges, I noticed the shoulders of the motor shaft they sit on to be fairly mangled (7 thousands run-out because of it on right side, not so much on left) . So, first things first, I strapped the grinder to my lathe bed, installed a carbide bit into my homemade Oland tool, turned the grinder on, and trued up the shoulders. Worked beautifully.

Next, I epoxied the flanges to the motor shaft using a machined washer, a machined bushings and a nut to hold it as square and tight to the shoulder as possible. Once that was set, I measured run-out on the flange to be about 7 thousands on both sides. Again, I mounted it to my lathe bed and went to work. The run-out now is less than 1 thousandth and the wheels run extremely true!

Next up, need to build a diamond dressing tool (mimic the Geiger), and dress the wheels to concentric.
Click image for larger version.

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Live4Brew

34 posts in 2494 days


#6 posted 01-15-2014 08:09 PM

I also ordered new wheels that will accept the machined bushings I bought from McMaster Carr

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