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Forum topic by shopdog posted 01-08-2014 06:56 PM 675 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


01-08-2014 06:56 PM

Hi

It’s been many years since I built an interior door, so I have to dust off the cobwebs…hopefully with your help.
It’s a flat panel door with 2 panels, as seen in the pic below. It’ll either be 1 1/2” thick…or 1 3/8”. That’s up to me. I’m thinking clear poplar…easy to mortise, and fairly stable. It will be painted.
I’m thinking to use 1/2” baltic birch for the panels
My client wants me to match another door in the same room. Here’s a pic…

I can either biskit/glue the rails into the stiles, or, since I have to dado in the panels, I can mill 1/2” tenons onto the ends of the rails. Thoughts? any other options? Opinions?

Thanks in advance to this great community of skilled woodworkers

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz


24 replies so far

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shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


#1 posted 01-08-2014 06:59 PM

I’m looking at the pic that I posted…not too good. The door is 24”w x 78”+ h…not that size matters…in this case :-)

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz

View doordude's profile

doordude

1085 posts in 1637 days


#2 posted 01-08-2014 07:10 PM

Steve; it doesn’t make too much difference how you assemble the components. a standard door thickness is 1-3/8 inches, unless or matching a door that is 1-1/2 inches thick. panel needs to be floating. don’t nail or glue in.
Why don’t you just go buy one at your local door shop?

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shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


#3 posted 01-08-2014 07:33 PM

The existing door is 1 1/8 thick, but I want to go thicker…and that’s OK with the client. I need to buy 2x stock, so why run it through my planer if I don’t have to. I have an old 12” makita planer that likes to snipe…so I don’t use it too much.
I know about floating the panel…
I can’t buy one…she wants the panels to match exactly (obsessive compulsive) so I have to build it.
She’s a great client…I already built her deck, and a wall to wall built-in bookcase.

thanks

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5361 posts in 2239 days


#4 posted 01-08-2014 08:58 PM

A note which might help you you should be able to get your planer to stop sniping by setting the outfeed table correctly .I hope this helps I would also say buy a cheap door don’t go to all the trouble of making one when the Russians or Chinese will do the same thing for you for a few pennies.As we say why bark when you have a dog. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

669 posts in 328 days


#5 posted 01-08-2014 09:12 PM

There is nothing wrong with gluing in a ply panel, it will strengthen the door. For me, the tenons should be min. 2in, best practice, thru tenons.

-- Bill....... I listen very closely to the timber and then impose my will.

View Greg's profile

Greg

283 posts in 1527 days


#6 posted 01-08-2014 09:20 PM

I am with Texcaster. You need more that .5” tenons as the door could tweak (go out of flat) on her. If it were me (I used to manage a 15million/year door & Window co.) I would simply use two or three 1/2” x 4” dowels PLUS the 1/2” tenon you mentioned. that should do it!

-- You don't have a custom made heirloom fly fishing Net? http://www.Sierra-Nets.com

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shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


#7 posted 01-08-2014 09:39 PM

@ scotsman…Russians/Chinese? I don’t know any custom door makers from those countries. I’m not looking to do this job on the cheap. My client is paying me to build a door with precise details…not buy a door.

@Bill…I may put a dab of glue on each side…just to keep the panels from rattling.
By tenons, I was gonna make it more like tongue & groove into the 1/2” dado that I’m milling for the panel.

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2386 posts in 2092 days


#8 posted 01-08-2014 09:50 PM

Just another thought regarding joinery here.

I’ve made doors and used screws. At the top and bottom of the stile I’ve drilled holes at 45 degrees outward to the side rails. Countersink the screw an inch in case someone needs to plane the bottom for fit. I use those very long 6” deck screws with the torx head you can find in big box stores. Put in a dowel plug to cover it. Since no one sees the top an bottom of the door it never shows and holds quite well. Not kosher but it sure works.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

669 posts in 328 days


#9 posted 01-08-2014 09:54 PM

Gunstock stiles with tenons to take the pace on the hinge side and the strike plate side.

-- Bill....... I listen very closely to the timber and then impose my will.

View shopdog's profile

shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


#10 posted 01-08-2014 09:58 PM

Greg,
I must have been typing while you were posting.
I’m not set up for doweling…so that’s out.
We used to biskit and glue in the rails (in the old days). I still have the biskit joiner.
Is that no longer acceptable? How are dowels gonna keep a door from going out of flat?
Do you think that poplar isn’t stable?

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz

View hydro's profile

hydro

208 posts in 406 days


#11 posted 01-08-2014 10:00 PM

Shopdog, A passage door made of solid wood components will be heavy and take a real beating opening/closing over time. I agree 100% on the through tenon construction, and if you cannot do that, Greg’s dowel idea will work almost as well. If you make it with just the 1/2” cope & stick tenons I am betting the door falls apart In a couple of years.

Ps. Greg, I like your signature. I do have a couple of personally made fly fishing nets!

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

669 posts in 328 days


#12 posted 01-08-2014 10:03 PM

Biscuits for a door are exactly wrong for even for a smallest door.

-- Bill....... I listen very closely to the timber and then impose my will.

View Kryptic's profile

Kryptic

294 posts in 314 days


#13 posted 01-08-2014 10:05 PM

big butt domino floating tenons. quick . easy . structurally sound

how can one be commissioned to build a custom door, and not be tooled to build one ? a half inch deep tenon will last as long as a biscuit, which is about the same amount of time as it takes some one to slam the door : )

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shopdog

562 posts in 2140 days


#14 posted 01-08-2014 10:53 PM

OK OK…enuf. I can’t take any more. :-)
It’s a closet door, only 24” wide. She’‘ll open it a few times a day, and I’ll tell her not to slam it.
My 1/2” tenons are 3/4” deep :-) I’ll throw in some long screws. Titebond will do the rest.

Kryptic…Tooled? Doors were built long before dominoes.
I don’t think I’ll be buying into the domino system for this project. I don’t want to lose $
I looked at your profile to see your props…don’t see anything. Check out my website, or my projects, before you doubt that I can carry out this commission.

-- Steve-- http://www.urbanexteriors.biz

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2386 posts in 2092 days


#15 posted 01-08-2014 11:08 PM

Way to come back shopdog. That previous comment he made was a little condescending. I thought so when I read it earlier. All of us, even if we do a lot of woodworking projects, always come across something that we’ve not had as much experience with. This should be a safe place to ask… “What would you do?” I’ll bet there are very few people on LJ’s, no matter what level of expertise, that either have asked a question regarding a new technique they’re dealing with or have thought about it.

Your door will be great. I’ve looked at your projects… You’ve got the chops to do it.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

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