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Finger or Box Joint Help. Dont want to 45 Miter 1x3 wood

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Forum topic by PatrickIrish posted 01-05-2014 05:41 AM 766 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PatrickIrish

39 posts in 735 days


01-05-2014 05:41 AM

I’m building a fold out craft table for my niece. It’s 6” deep but the front will look like a standard chalk board when folder up.

Instead of just making a standard 45 miter frame, I wanted to finger joint them somehow. The wood is solid maple 1×3.

How could I do this? I’m drawing a blank.

I have an Incra LS table and router I scored off craigslist, have yet to use it but know there’s someway I can.

The frame will be like the picture below but no 45 miter.

I was thinking I could cut my horizontal pieces the desired length and then run them through the router table taking an 1/16” off the backs of them and then run them through with a finger joint bit the 3” width of the board.

Then, I would lower the bit 1/16 and pass the vertical pieces of the frame through through. This way the “fingers” sticking up have a 1/16” of solid wood underneath….if not they would just fall off. Once the pieces are joined you would see the finger joint but on the backs of the verticals it would solid. Does that make sense at all?

I’m open for other ideas.


7 replies so far

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Rick M.

4142 posts in 1070 days


#1 posted 01-05-2014 07:57 AM

There is a jig you can make for router table box joints. I don’t have a link handy but it’s basically just like the same jig for the table saw.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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wbrisett

133 posts in 1038 days


#2 posted 01-05-2014 11:32 AM

Patrick: I posted on the router forums about using a 45º mitre bit, that’s a thought. Here’s a question though. Did you get the Incra template book with your system? If not, you should buy it from Incra (incremental tools). You’re really going to need it if you are going to do any type of cuts with the Incra jig.

Looking at the book, there is a template for ⅛” equally spaced box joints. To use it, you use a ⅛ straight bit with template BOXA. The problem is without the book, you don’t know how to setup your scales. If you have the book, look on page 19. Get some cheap pine and do a few sample tests. That’s the way to learn. Also if you have the video, watch it. If you don’t you can get some hints from this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4Z6MjwHnZw

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PatrickIrish

39 posts in 735 days


#3 posted 01-05-2014 04:32 PM

wbrisett Thanks for the info! I’ve the complete system with templates. I’ve watched that youtube many times and the DVD it came with. Lots and lots of info to digest. I try it out. My only mental hurdle is that I’m not technically building a box you know? Since the 1×3 boards lay flat. I can’t really picture how it would work. I’m going to fiddle with some 3/4” pine I have.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11242 posts in 1380 days


#4 posted 01-06-2014 01:18 AM

I’d use half laps rather than box joints personally.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2601 posts in 1041 days


#5 posted 01-06-2014 02:27 AM

I’d use half laps rather than box joints personally.

Yeah, me too or maybe bridle joints.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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oldnovice

3798 posts in 2058 days


#6 posted 01-06-2014 03:07 AM

I vote for half lap too, if voting is allowed. A half lap is easier and very strong, stronger than a miter!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1381 posts in 947 days


#7 posted 01-07-2014 02:38 AM

+1 half laps. If you want to dress them up a bit, you could peg them just for looks, not necessary for strength.

-- Art

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