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Transtint making globs in Minwax Polycrylic

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Forum topic by daviddoria posted 01-04-2014 01:52 AM 2697 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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daviddoria

66 posts in 1405 days


01-04-2014 01:52 AM

Topic tags/keywords: transtint polycrylic globs hvlp

I have sprayed about a half can of straight-from-the-can Minwaxy Polycrylic with no problems (with an Earlex 5500). Today I decied to tint the Polycrylic with Transtint. I used .25 oz of Transtint per 8 oz of Polycrylic. I poured it the cup, started spraying, and the gun kept clogging intermittently. After cleaning the gun and trying again, I had the same problem. Confused, I decided to strain the tinted Polycrylic through a paint strainer – and it was full of tiny little globs! I had to use a few filters to get it clean. I then tried to spray again with the strained fluid and it worked fine.

I’ve seen plenty of places where people talked about tinting Polycrylic with Transtint – is this not OK? If it is OK, is it expected for it to form little globs that need to be strained as I had to do? Could something else be causing this? (Note: it was a brand new cup, and the last thing I sprayed through the gun was Polycrylic).

Thanks!

David


5 replies so far

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Ltwud

24 posts in 1410 days


#1 posted 01-08-2014 11:56 PM

Early in my transtint experience I had that happen as well. Its quite frustrating to have waste at $18 for just 2 oz. I haven’t used a waterbased finish but have come to the conclusion I have better success using the dye separate from the finish. So I use shellac diluted with 2-3 parts denatured alcohol first and then a clear finish over the top and have never had a problem. Its amazing how Shellac sticks to almost anything and everything seems to stick to it but it can cloud if you don’t get a good seal over it. I have had success tinting my finish with transtint but only if a light job is required. When I don’t get it right immediately the frustration of too much finish caused me to change my methods.

Good luck

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daviddoria

66 posts in 1405 days


#2 posted 01-09-2014 12:35 PM

Ltwud,

I was thinking of running the globby mixture through a very fine paint filter several times to salvage it – would you not recommend that, or think it wouldn’t work? Also, are you saying you mixed the shellac with the Transtint?

Does anyone have any idea what causes the globs?

Thanks,

David

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#3 posted 01-09-2014 01:37 PM

Just speculating here but could there be some sort of oil in the transtint that would make it separate from the water based poly or not completely dissolve into it?

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#4 posted 01-09-2014 01:41 PM

Here’s a little blurb from Transtint’s website on mixing with water based:

As a Toner – TransTint Dyes can be added to any water or solvent based finish including, shellac, water-based products, solvent lacquers, polyester, and two component lacquers and varnishes. It cannot be added to two-component polyurethanes. Always test before using. Finishes thinned with a high amount of mineral spirits may not accept the dye. Use only gloss finish, unsatisfactory results may be experienced with satin, semi-gloss and flat finishes. The ratio of concentrate to finish is variable, but best results are with 1/4 – 1/2 ounce concentrate per quart. To add TransTints to solvent based finishes like shellac and lacquers, simply add the required amount (start with about 1/4 to 1/2 oz. per quart) and stir the dye until the finish appears homogenous and clear on the end of a stick. To add to water based finishes, stir the desired amount into the finish (adding 5-10% water to the TransTint first helps disperse the dye into the finish), then stir gently for 30 seconds. Let the dye/finish sit for at least 30 minutes before using. Failure to do this may result in “shocking” the emulsion. In some cases the water base finish may turn stringy or gel slightly. This indicates an incompatibility and you should switch to another finish.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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Ltwud

24 posts in 1410 days


#5 posted 01-09-2014 05:26 PM

David,

When it happened to me all the transtint went to the bottom of my sprayer cup; it was heavier than my finish and wouldn’t permanently mix so there was nothing I thought I could do on that and had to start over.

Its like Vinegar and Oil salad dressing, you can shake it but it always goes back to its original state. But now when I’m doing a larger project I premix a quart or more with Shellac and denatured alchohol and will utilize it over a month and never have to remix it. I may shake it quickly, but it doesn’t separate and I think you need to find a system that will provide consistent results.

What I’ve learned is that you could just use water to spray the dye or just alcohol if you don’t want to raise the grain, but then when you touch it it can smear off or smudge. That’s where just a little thinned shellac in the mix helps it stick, but doesn’t build up if you need to cover it 6-8 coats.

If you’ve never used Shellac its amazing because its organic, dries very quickly and sticks to other finishes and is sticky to finishes going over the top. I recognize its not desirable topcoat in a moist environment, but for hundreds of years it was the goto finish for fine furniture and I think is overlooked today. But then again when I went down the road to learn about spraying transtint there is very little on the internet about it. I realize cabinet shops must have mastered it, but I think they don’t share much on youtube.

I’m sorry I can’t tell you more because after I found what worked for me I stopped experimenting.

I’ve also learned much I prefer lacquer which gets a bad rap these days because of the smell and hazards…. but it dries so quickly and consistently that I think its a great product for the experienced home shop.

Good Luck!

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