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spray adhesive - what's the trick?

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Forum topic by JustJoe posted 01-02-2014 11:59 PM 2696 views 3 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JustJoe

1554 posts in 1505 days


01-02-2014 11:59 PM

I’m new to the whole scrollsawing thing. Can someone tell me please what the trick is to getting the spray adhesive to make the paper stick to the wood? I’m using a can of DURO All-Purpose Spray Adhesive (Blue can, 01-81088 might be the model #). I spray the wood, apply the paper, it peels off. I spray the paper, apply it to the wood, it peels off. Sometimes it sticks for a little bit and then when I start scrolling it lifts off and I’m stuck trying to guide the wood with one hand and hold down the pattern with the other.
I’ve tried walnut, cherry, bubinga, and next up is maple if that makes a difference.

Please advise. And if I’m using the wrong spray glue, please be very specific with what I need to buy and where (locally) I can buy it.

thanks
Joe

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35 replies so far

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Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1118 days


#1 posted 01-03-2014 12:02 AM

Not sure of the adhesive, but being familiar with similar things, after you spray it you need to let the solvents evaporate before applying the paper. Should be tacky after a minute or so.

-- -Dan

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distrbd

2228 posts in 1913 days


#2 posted 01-03-2014 12:12 AM

This is how I do it,I first use painter’s tape to tape over the piece of wood I’ll be cutting,then lightly spray the painter’s tape ,wait a couple of minutes till its tacky ,then stick the pattern on it.it when finish cutting it will be easy to remove the pattern and the tape off the workpiece.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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kdc68

2526 posts in 1743 days


#3 posted 01-03-2014 12:13 AM

I use Easy-Tack Repositional Adhesive by Krylon….. Instructions say spray a light coat to both surfaces and let dry for 60 seconds before you stick the two surfaces together…..Maybe that would work for your adhesive…good luck…

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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distrbd

2228 posts in 1913 days


#4 posted 01-03-2014 12:25 AM

I use 3M Super 77 but the brand really don’t seem to matter for this application,I also cover the whole work piece with 2” clear packing tape .

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 1505 days


#5 posted 01-03-2014 12:26 AM

I may have been applying too quickly after spraying. I’ll try waiting until it gets tacky. And the tape trick is good to know too. Thanks!

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jimr1cos

29 posts in 1353 days


#6 posted 01-03-2014 12:44 AM

Joe, I use Aileen’s Tacky Spray(30 second wait time), but I don’t think the brand is real critical. I also cover the wood with either clear packaging tape or blue painters tape. I prefer the blue stuff.

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Pimzedd

562 posts in 3271 days


#7 posted 01-03-2014 12:48 AM

I put down a layer of blue painters tape. The spay glue the back of the pattern and position. Then cover with clear packing tape. Works every time.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

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Stoli

57 posts in 2834 days


#8 posted 01-03-2014 02:12 AM

Have you tried applying the adhesive to both the paper and the wood? I recently did this by mistake and had trouble getting the paper off – had to sand it off.

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 1505 days


#9 posted 01-03-2014 02:54 AM

The latest one I tried waiting 1 minute after spraying. It is sticking fine now. I didn’t use tape because it’s cold out, the tape is in the workshop, the scrollsaw is in the living room, and I’m feeling lazy. But the next one I’ll try adding tape to the wood first.

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woodsmithshop

1254 posts in 3012 days


#10 posted 01-03-2014 08:09 PM

the tape acts like a lubricant and helps to cut down on splintering

-- Smitty!!!

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SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3052 days


#11 posted 01-03-2014 08:13 PM

Just wait a little while when it no longer raises itself when you put your finger on it or another way of saying it is touch dry,and no longer fresh wet, then apply both sides and it will stick imediately. Obviously spray both sides and wait.People who cant wait a few minutes get into all sorts of trouble and the parts raise from each other. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2436 days


#12 posted 01-03-2014 08:47 PM

Look out for ‘Spray Mount’ by 3M – it’s the best of the spray adhesives in my opinion. It goes on thin and evenly without solvent coming through the paper and bubbling, also allows for repositioning without making a mess. Expensive but worth it, the Festool of spray adhesives.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8261 posts in 2895 days


#13 posted 01-03-2014 08:54 PM

To remove the stubborn pattern fragments, I soak the piece in lacquer thinner. The paper just rubs off after 4-5 minutes of soaking. Might need to moisten a rag and rub the piece to get all the residual glue off.
But, Ken’s suggestion would eliminate the need for the thinner.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2893 posts in 1715 days


#14 posted 01-04-2014 03:56 AM

I have a better trick – Don’t stick the paper to the wood. Print your pattern on a laser printer (inverse if not symmetrical. ) if you don’t have a laser printer, photocopy it. Now use a pattern transfer tool (wood burner kits come with them) and transfer your pattern. Cover it with clear packing tape on both sides. It helps keep the blades cool (true story).

I do this for chip carving as well. It sands off easily. You can also do a chemical transfer (acetone) but it’s messier, harder to transfer easily and doesn’t come off as easily.

It has to be laser printed or electrostatic photocopied. Inkjet will not transfer.

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

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Sk1pp3r

66 posts in 1240 days


#15 posted 01-04-2014 04:05 AM

Naptha works really well at removing the paper as well.

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