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Dropped Carbide Bit/Blade Failure

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Forum topic by PittsburghTim posted 113 days ago 437 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PittsburghTim

213 posts in 828 days


113 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: blades bits carbide safety

Another forum topic has caused me to wonder about the failure mode of carbide router bits and blades. I have always been fearful of using any carbide bit or blade that has been dropped in the shop. I know that carbide is extremely hard and I assume that it is brittle as well. For the very few times that it has happened, I have never used them again. Throwing these out seems wasteful, but I cannot see risking a piece of carbide flying at me for the cost of a new bit or blade.

Does anyone have any authoritative info on this?

-- She asked me, "Who are you going to please with that?" I said, "Me."


9 replies so far

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

51 posts in 236 days


#1 posted 113 days ago

I think I would be more concerned about cutting through a knot than using a carbide blade that’s been dropped. if carbide was to take flight, it would only be when the saw is first started. Once started and cutting, if you’ve raised your blade properly, you should have only a small amount of blade that would allow carbide to fly in your direction, plus, you should be standing out of the line of fire when cutting anyway…... Experience is from 30 years of owning and operating a custom cabinet shop…......... Jerry (in Tucson).

-- jerry (in Tucson)

View DKV's profile

DKV

3053 posts in 1010 days


#2 posted 113 days ago

Wear safety glasses and you should be ok.

-- 2014 will be a different year...at least for me it will.

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

382 posts in 235 days


#3 posted 113 days ago

If you don’t want it I will take it, just kiddin, really I will, it should be fine, take a small brass hammer and ping the teeth from the back side, a clean sound you will hear and if you hear a different tone then you have a problem

-- 2+2 is 9

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bowedcurly

382 posts in 235 days


#4 posted 113 days ago

or a brass rod this will be light taps, the sound will be the same unless you have a broken tooth or crack in the plate

-- 2+2 is 9

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5154 posts in 1882 days


#5 posted 113 days ago

I’d just send it to a well qualified sharpening service….tell them what happened, and ask them to go over it and correct any problems, as well as sharpening. Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Dynamic Saw, Scott Whiting, etc.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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unbob

286 posts in 410 days


#6 posted 113 days ago

This 12” rip blade lost a partial tooth. It hit the blade gaurd hard.
A quality blade that came with a saw, used, in a box loose with other blades. Most likely received a sharp blow, and cracked the carbide, only to let loose in use.
This saw spins the blade at 4000rpm, a tiny piece of carbide coming off is no joke..
There is no way I will place myself in front of any blade at anytime.
I had the blade repaired, nice rip blade.

View NormG's profile

NormG

3632 posts in 1510 days


#7 posted 113 days ago

All great suggestions, anything that comes at you 4000 rpm or more is not to be taken lightly. Again though it is a personal choice if you do not feel safe better not use the tool

-- Norman

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knotscott

5154 posts in 1882 days


#8 posted 112 days ago

4000 rpms is child’s play compared to a router bit spinning at 22k rpms! :-0 ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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unbob

286 posts in 410 days


#9 posted 112 days ago

The actual cutters edge surface speed is close to the same on a router bit and a saw blade, even with the rpm difference.
I have never used a router bit extension, that would add to a fling factor, if a bit/extension should pull from a collet.
I am going to try bowedcurly’s test much like testing grinding wheels, I have a lot of blades, I have not tried yet.

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