Table Saw Blade for Resawing

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Forum topic by docspencer posted 01-01-2014 01:16 PM 1186 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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291 posts in 1370 days

01-01-2014 01:16 PM

I’ve been reading all I can find about resawing with my table saw. So far, I have been using my 10” 60 tooth but it tends to burn when cutting oak. From what I’ve read, I should be using a 10” 24 tooth and my local HD has a Diablo for $28. I trust you collective opinion on this site – is this a good choice?

11 replies so far

View jonah's profile


687 posts in 2723 days

#1 posted 01-01-2014 01:43 PM

The Diablo thin kerf rip blade you’re talking about a fine blade for what you’re doing. It’s a good-but-not-great option. To get an unequivocally better rip blade, you’ll need to spend probably twice as much or more.

View docspencer's profile


291 posts in 1370 days

#2 posted 01-01-2014 05:27 PM

Thanks, jonah. Just for grins, what brands make a “unequivocally better rip blade” – just in case my wife actually lets me spend that kind of money :)

View DKV's profile


3940 posts in 1928 days

#3 posted 01-01-2014 05:42 PM

Be nice to the wife and buy a blade. Take her shopping with you.

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3851 posts in 1918 days

#4 posted 01-01-2014 05:52 PM

Take a look at the Freud P410, or the Forrest WWII ripping blade.. There’s several others, but the exact model escapes me at the moment.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2800 days

#5 posted 01-01-2014 07:29 PM

Burning can become a problem with too many teeth, so I’ve always stuck with 24T or less. The Diablo has an ATB grind vs flat, but is otherwise fine. I prefer the Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, or DW7124PT…all flat top grinds (FTG).

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Loren's profile


8178 posts in 3072 days

#6 posted 01-01-2014 07:38 PM

It’s probably fine. Sears has good prices on decent blades. As
log as you’re not trying to rip glue joints, any 10” blade
with a relatively low tooth count will do ok for resawing
on the table saw. A thin kerf blade will cut faster
unless you have 3 or more hp under the hood.

View Danpaddles's profile


550 posts in 1736 days

#7 posted 01-01-2014 07:42 PM

I have been using a 50 tooth Freud for everything. Model number not visible under the (unneeded) stabilizer. It is a higher end blade. I get a bit of burning in cherry. Keeping the blade clean makes a world of difference, get the resin off the side of the teeth, I use simple green. Faster feed helps a lot too. Pause while pushing the board and you will spend some time sanding.

I am sure a blade with fewer teeth would help on rips. But I like the luxury of not changing blades every time I change the cut I am making.

This Freud cuts cleaner and smoother than a buddies Forrest did, when he took it out of the package. I am very sold on Freud. Router bits seem to hold up well too, tho Whiteside has thicker carbide.

-- Dan V. in Indy

View Huds's profile


20 posts in 1031 days

#8 posted 01-01-2014 08:08 PM

I have both the Freud 24T flat tooth thin kerf and the 30T TCG full kerf blades, both with the permashield coating. I also have a Tenryu 50 combi and a Forrest 40T that came as a gift with the saw. Prefer the 30T TCG for ripping. Though the 30T makes more waste, it is a great ripping blade, for what it’s worth. Whether or not you get a “glue line” cut depends on a lot of factors that go beyond the saw blade – built up tension in the lumber, saw set up, fence alignment to just name a few.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2391 posts in 2346 days

#9 posted 01-01-2014 09:21 PM

I have that 24 teeth Diablo and use it for riping and for re-sawing. Works well for me.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1295 posts in 1373 days

#10 posted 01-02-2014 01:40 AM

I use a cheap irwin 10” 24t that is coated to resist treated lumber. It was like $15. I really don’t care what the cut looks like, because it will get planed off. The blade cuts fast and smooth. for what I use it for I see no need to spend a lot of money on a fancy blade. also I have used the blade for 5-6 years for all my resawing needs, and it is still sharp.

View TaybulSawz's profile


141 posts in 1107 days

#11 posted 01-02-2014 03:56 AM

If kerf size is not an issue then I don’t see an issue with getting a cheap 24 tooth rip blade and going to work. If it’s sharp, flat and stable, it will do a good job for you. As previously stated, you will prolly be doing some jointing and planing anyway so who cares what kind of finish it yields.

-- Still got all my Fingers!!!

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