LumberJocks

Smoothing out an angled half lap

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by bludhemn posted 12-30-2013 05:47 PM 706 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View bludhemn's profile

bludhemn

5 posts in 1098 days


12-30-2013 05:47 PM

Hello

I’m trying to build a console table with X-legs (cross legs). I decided to use a half lap joint for the legs, but came across some difficulty while doing this. The legs are angled at around 28 degree, and I am making the cut with a tenon saw on pine wood. I made a few parallel cuts in the lap and cleared it off with a paring chisel. But the end result was a completely uneven surface, and the more I tried to use the chisel to smooth it out, the worse it got. Here is a pic of what I have now:

The width of that lap is about 80mm, and I dont have a plane that will go in. What can I do to make sure that the next half lap is even?

Please bear with my lack of understanding, as I am a total novice.

Thank you.


5 replies so far

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 1506 days


#1 posted 12-30-2013 05:57 PM

You’re using that modern lumber they call pine but is actually a member of the sponge family. It will be stringy in spots, hard in some, soft in others. Very hard to get a smooth surface even with razor sharp tools. You could try using your sharpest saw and chisel to cut it out just-a-hair-not-deep-enough and then take a block of wood the same width as the opening with some sandpaper glued to it and just sand it down to the depth you want.
Or you can just do all the cuts on the tablesaw or radial arm saw with a dado blade and be done with it. Just angle the miter gauge or if you’re using a crosscut sled (better) put a wedge behind it to get the angle you need.
Or the tablesaw or RAS with a regular blade and make about 16 bajillion passes until you’re done.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View GrandpaLen's profile

GrandpaLen

1643 posts in 1740 days


#2 posted 12-30-2013 06:15 PM

Saw cuts at the edge of your 1/2 lap and clean out inbetween with a ruoter.

...just a thought.

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len

Work Safely and have Fun.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View TaybulSawz's profile

TaybulSawz

149 posts in 1150 days


#3 posted 12-30-2013 07:05 PM

I’d recommend making multiple saw kerfs. You’ll have less likelihood of chipping and gouging with pine.

-- Still got all my Fingers!!!

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

13738 posts in 2086 days


#4 posted 12-30-2013 09:29 PM

First off, the overall recessed surface doesn’t need to be pretty. Cut the second half lap and trim to fit is a decent approach. In the meantime, G-Len’s advise is sound (as is joe and taybul of course) re: the router. This is a small router, the #271, where you’d likely need the #71.

A router plane has a iron extended below the sole of the plane to make recessed surfaces consistent, just as you desire.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#5 posted 12-30-2013 09:36 PM

I’d be tempted to use the router plane also, but my second choice (maybe you don’t have a router plane) would be a rasp.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com