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Grizzly 15 inch planer - help!

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Forum topic by bbrown posted 237 days ago 803 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


237 days ago

I have a Grizzly G0453Z 15 inch planer that stopped running suddenly. I use it rarely and was planing some 1 inch thick poplar. The motor started but “dies in about 1-2 seconds.
However, after a few hours and again, just light duty use for maybe 15 minutes total, it reverted to the same thing. It starts and then immediately shuts down.

I fear I nee a new motor, but I am neither a mechanic not an electrician. I make reproduction 18th century pieces and my work has come to a halt for over a month – I am very frustrated by all this. I have spent hours of time and over $175 so far. I have been underwhelmed by the help I have received from Grizzly. They even want to charge me a restocking fee and shipping for the wiring box which I am returning, sort of adding insult to injury for their misdiagnosis. I don’t run my business that way.

Can anyone here help give me some ideas?

Thanks very much,

—Wm. Brown

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee


20 replies so far

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2180 posts in 2174 days


#1 posted 237 days ago

Sounds like an issue with the magnetic switch. Dust can get inside and cause similar issues. We blow out the magnetic switch thoroughly and our planer runs great again.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

14845 posts in 1195 days


#2 posted 237 days ago

I’m making some assumptions here, like its already out of warrantee, and its up to you to fix it, so I’d pull the motor and take it to a motor shop. It might b e worth a call to one first, but getting it fixed may be cheaper than a whole new motor.

A quick internet search brought up a few possible motor shops in your area.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6646 posts in 2607 days


#3 posted 236 days ago

I recently had a similar problem with a delta shaper. After checking the capacitors and switch, we assumed it was the motor. We took it to a reputable motor repair shop, who repaired it.

Turns out it was impacted with sawdust, (in spite of the dust collection system, and us vacuuming out the cabinet on a regular basis). Cost of repair was $75.00

With checking out.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#4 posted 236 days ago

Thanks very much guys for the replies. I really appreciate that.

I had bought a new electrical box from Grizzly and spent quite a while removing the old box and rewiring the new one. I was told by the technical support guy at Grizzly that the box needed to be replaced and that I had to buy a new one.

I did not mention that I also paid for an electrician to come out, as I thought maybe there was some problem with my wiring in my shop (the breaker was tripping every time I tried to start the machine). He tested the wiring connections under the planer and all seemed fine there. He suggested I check the capacitor which was in a box on the motor. We found that the capacitor has burst (and grease was all over the inside of the box).

I bought a new capacitor at Grainger and replaced it, then said a prayer (honest) and the planer started and ran fine whilst I planed some cherry drawer fronts. But I went back about an hour later and the same thing happened – it started for a split second but then just made a humming noise, so I turned it off quickly each time I tried to start it. I rechecked the capacitor and it looked OK. I plan to call Grizzly again Monday, but I have lost some confidence in getting help with them.

The planer is 4 years old and past warranty. It has only been used lightly, as I do a lot of hand planing. But I’ve been really happy with it until this. I see no reason it should knock out after light use for a few years.

I’ll check the switch (no one at Grizzly mentioned that). I assume you mean the on/off switch?

If that does not do it, I will try to find a motor repair guy in my area (Lynchburg, VA). The electrician said he knew of no one in our area who could fix the motor, but who knows. The motor is a monster and it might be a bear to try to remove it. But I’d rather that than trying to move the whole planer!

Thank you Jerry, Ron, and Lee. These ideas help a lot.

—Bill


-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2180 posts in 2174 days


#5 posted 236 days ago

Our wood master 25” planer has a 7.5 HP motor and the exact same thing happens about every 6 months and it has always been the magnetic switch. Compressed air cleans it out the switch and then the planer runs fine.

If you have motor issues, a 5 HP Leeson brand new can be had for around 340.00 shipped. If you in fact have motor issues, then a brand new Leeson would give your planer years of stability. I’m hoping for your benefit it is just something simple and maybe some compressed air can get you going.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

View UpstateNYdude's profile

UpstateNYdude

428 posts in 610 days


#6 posted 236 days ago

You’re positive the starting capacitor is still completely intact and not bulging or leaking or has crappy contact on the leads? All signs of what your experiencing would lead me to that cap or the actuator in the switch box, you could also have worn down the brushes but if your not using it much as you say I highly doubt that.

Removing that motor is not that difficult, that is to say other than the tiny space provided if you’re above average height and have large hands you may have a tad more difficulty. I own the same exact model but I’m fairly small in size so working in the compartment underneath wasn’t a problem for me.

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1469 posts in 348 days


#7 posted 236 days ago

I’ve had similar problems with Grizzly’s customer service, thankfully before I sent them any money. I do have a 20” Grizzly bandsaw with a magnetic starter that I purchased used. I typically clean the motor out every two years and the starter every year. No problems as of yet. One other thing that could be checked is the heaters on the overload in the starter (if it uses them). As a dirty machine might have to work harder, the heaters are run hotter and prone to failure sooner. I can’t remember if the Grizzly starters use this type of overload or not. I know a few of my Delta machines do.

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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#8 posted 236 days ago

Thanks for the help guys.

As I mentioned I did buy an entirely new “Starter” box which contains all the wiring connections. That box was very clean (no dust to even blow out) when I removed it, and it turned out not to be the problem (still would not start after I replaced it). So I am sending that box back to Grizzly for a partial refund. I am not much of a mechanic or electrician, so we might be talking past each other….I’ve referred to this as a “wiring box”, but my manual uses the terms “Motor starter”, and “Magnetic switch”. It’s basically a box that contains many wires that come in from the outside and then into the machine, that are described in the manual wiring diagram. Is that the “starter” or “switch”that you folks are talking about?

What are the “actuator” and “brushes”? I do not see anything in the manual about “heaters on the overload in the starter”, and do not know what that is.

I assume that it’s not the actual On/Off push button switch that folks are referring to here?

As I mentioned, the capacitor was at least part of the problem – it blew up and grease was all over the inside of the box that it was in. I bought a new one at Grainger, and the planer did work again, but only for about 15 minutes. Then it went back to starting for a split second and then just humming, like it was straining, and would blow again if I did not immediately turn it off.

Now, the capacitor I bought looks like it needs to be soldered onto the wires. I just used electrical tape as I have not soldered before. Could that be an issue? There was no positive or negative label on the capacitor, so I just connected the wires randomly. Like I said, the planer did work fine for a short while after that.

Oh, one more thing: the Grizzly tech man mentioned something about removing the motor fan (which I found almost impossible without specialized tools – I can keep trying I guess), and checking the “contact points” on the “centrifugal switch”. These should not be in contact and if they are they need to be separated, or if broken replaced. Then I should “push the centrifugal switch in another 1/8 inch. He went over this so fast I could not really understand it and he got agitated when I asked him to slow down. I could not get the fan off so I did not see any of this. He doubted that was the problem though. The manual had no diagram or info on this.

Help…............

—Bill

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1469 posts in 348 days


#9 posted 236 days ago

Sorry about the confusion, if the box has heaters, you’d likely never have to mess with them and given the way Grizzly packages everything, it’s likely they wouldn’t be something you could replace by themselves anyway. Your motor does NOT have brushes. The five things that can go wrong with a single phase induction motor are as follows: Bearings, windings, centrifugal switch, capacitors, thermal overload (if the motor is such equipped). You can rule out bearings if the motor can be turned, windings smell horrible and very powerful when burned. The centrifugal switch will get stuck in the run or start position when it fails and could exhibit symptoms similar to what you’ve described. Capacitors can be tested by some digital multimeters or by a motor shop. I have no idea if your motor is equipped with an internal thermal overload, but when they go bad, they too will exhibit symptoms much like what your experiencing. I would try removing the belts and starting the motor with zero load and see what happens. Based on what you’ve described, you likely have dirty contacts on the centrifugal switch or need another capacitor.

View bbrown's profile

bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#10 posted 236 days ago

Thanks for the help guys.

As I mentioned I did buy an entirely new “Starter” box which contains all the wiring connections. That box was very clean (no dust to even blow out) when I removed it, and it turned out not to be the problem (still would not start after I replaced it). So I am sending that box back to Grizzly for a partial refund. I am not much of a mechanic or electrician, so we might be talking past each other….I’ve referred to this as a “wiring box”, but my manual uses the terms “Motor starter”, and “Magnetic switch”. It’s basically a box that contains many wires that come in from the outside and then into the machine, that are described in the manual wiring diagram. Is that the “starter” or “switch”that you folks are talking about?

What are the “actuator” and “brushes”? I do not see anything in the manual about “heaters on the overload in the starter”, and do not know what that is.

I assume that it’s not the actual On/Off push button switch that folks are referring to here?


As I mentioned, the capacitor was at least part of the problem – it blew up and grease was all over the inside of the box that it was in. I bought a new one at Grainger, and the planer did work again, but only for about 15 minutes. Then it went back to starting for a split second and then just humming, like it was straining, and would blow again if I did not immediately turn it off.

Now, the capacitor I bought looks like it needs to be soldered onto the wires. I just used electrical tape as I have not soldered before. Could that be an issue? There was no positive or negative label on the capacitor, so I just connected the wires randomly. Like I said, the planer did work fine for a short while after that.

Oh, one more thing: the Grizzly tech man mentioned something about removing the motor fan (which I found almost impossible without specialized tools – I can keep trying I guess), and checking the “contact points” on the “centrifugal switch”. These should not be in contact and if they are they need to be separated, or if broken replaced. Then I should “push the centrifugal switch in another 1/8 inch. He went over this so fast I could not really understand it and he got agitated when I asked him to slow down. I could not get the fan off so I did not see any of this. He doubted that was the problem though. The manual had no diagram or info on this.

Help…............

—Bill

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#11 posted 236 days ago

Bigblockyeti,

That was great info – I’m learning a lot from my problems :)

1. Can anyone tell me how to check the “centrifugal switch”. I assume, as the tech man at Grizzly was telling me, that this is on the motor behind the fan?


2. Ditto re. the “internal thermal overload”. Can I find that myself or is this more of a job for a motor specialist?

3. I did already buy a new capacitor and attached that since the one before had burst open (does that tell us what or where the source of the problem is?). I am not sure I’d want to keep replacing capacitors if there’s a problem elsewhere that is causing the capacitor to burst.

I’ll check the motor without any load today when I get home.

Everyone’s help is very much appreciated,

-Bill

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#12 posted 235 days ago

Apologies for the double post.

— Bill

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1161 posts in 1486 days


#13 posted 235 days ago

Bill,

Actuator is a part of the starter/controller switch assembly.

Your motor is an induction motor and therefore does not have brushes.

I think your best course of action would be to call around to the motor repair shops in your area and find one you feel comfortable with to have them check and repair (if necessary) your motor.

Yes, the capacitor connections need to be made correctly as to polarity and also need to be made appropriately as to method of connecting. Taping the wires together is not adequate and may well be part of your problem.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View UpstateNYdude's profile

UpstateNYdude

428 posts in 610 days


#14 posted 235 days ago

Ugh thank you Herb and apologies Bill I did indeed forget they are induction motors so no brushes, and also as Herb said taping the Cap and wires is not an adequate connection you need to get some solder and get them connected properly as that is almost certainly your problem.

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

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bbrown

86 posts in 2179 days


#15 posted 235 days ago

PROBLEM SOLVED!
The machine started right up after that and so far looks to be good.

I still need to solder the capacitor and remove the duct tape that’s keeping the fan on the motor (!).

I ordered a new centrifugal switch ($15), which is simply screwed onto the end of the motor. And Jason assured me that there would be no restocking fee for the returned magnetic switch. So Grizzly is redeemed.

Thanks again for the interest y’all have taken in my problem.

—Bill

-- Forest, Virginia ; My guitar scrapbook: http://www.youtube.com/user/wfbrown1234?feature=mhee

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