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Suggested process for spraying hardwood edges glued to melamin, pre-finished ply?

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Forum topic by Loren posted 12-28-2013 06:53 PM 727 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Loren

8302 posts in 3111 days


12-28-2013 06:53 PM

I edge plywood with 1/4” hardwood strips using a special press. No
problem if the whole edged board can be trimmed and finished as
one piece… but I don’t have the space to really do that kind of
film finishing on everyday casework. I prefer prefinished maple
ply which is no problem to edge band with the press.

The issue is how to match the edgeband finish to the
prefinished ply finish without investing a lot of time in
doing it. I’m thinking rattle-can poly may be the way
to go (I like in California so nitro is not legal), but the
issue is how to manage the line where the new finish
meets the ply finish.

Do I tape?

Do I stack them up staggered back 1/4” and tape the
top panel?

Do I skip trying to make a clean line and try to feather
the spray pattern, let it cure then try to rub it out?

Other suggestions?


6 replies so far

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pintodeluxe

4854 posts in 2276 days


#1 posted 12-28-2013 07:30 PM

On almost every project I would agree that spraying the finish is the way to go.
On this project would it be easier to use some wipe-on poly? My thought is it would wipe off the prefinished plywood as well.

Maybe worth trying on a small sample shelf?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2432 days


#2 posted 12-29-2013 12:31 AM

A good question Loren. I can see the pitfalls to all approaches. Would it be worth machining the lipping with a tongue to fit into the edge of the panels? A biscuit jointer bit in a router using a fence would make a consistent groove in the panels and the tongue if machined right would keep the lipping in the right place, allowing it to be pre finished before gluing.

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mbs

1606 posts in 2403 days


#3 posted 12-29-2013 12:34 AM

I think wiping a poly may be faster in this situation than spraying.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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GOOD LUCK TO ALL

418 posts in 1190 days


#4 posted 12-29-2013 01:06 AM

The only other thing I can think of would be to make a pronounced seam by putting a very small bevel on both edges before applying, although that may not be a preferable look. Otherwise, wiping a finish is the only other option. Taping and spraying will leave the line, as you know, maybe try some samples and see if a scraper can take off the line without damaging the finish.
Let us know if you find something that works.
I use the pre-finished maple a lot, but I edgeband with the thin (.020) veneer so the edge is relatively easy to finish.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7172 posts in 2040 days


#5 posted 12-29-2013 01:39 AM

If it’s more important on some jobs to have a good match

maybe you can use the same ply and face the shelves using

a V groove router bit set.

More like the left picture but the edge banding won’t be as thick.

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Loren

8302 posts in 3111 days


#6 posted 12-29-2013 02:08 AM

The press flattens the panel somewhat and straightens
the banding. Alignment is not a problem. Even splined
bandings will tend to need trimming to feel consistent
under the fingers. In my case the problem of making,
gluing and trimming the bandings is solved with some
rather specialized machines from Germany. The issue
really is how to apply a finish and make it look like it
matches the pre-finished ply.

Thanks for the feedback.

I worked with a product called “The Burgess Edge”
on a few freestanding casework jobs… It looked
pretty good but it was really a hassle to get it
right and it took a lot of time. With the press
I use now any suitable strip from the table saw
(scrap often enough) can be used to edge band.

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