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Festool TS 75 equivalent/competition....Mafell KSP85Fc?

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Forum topic by HollywoodMarine78 posted 12-26-2013 05:43 PM 1918 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HollywoodMarine78

5 posts in 1082 days


12-26-2013 05:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: mafell festool ts75 festool ksp85fc

I apologize in advance if this has been addressed, but would the Mafell KSP85Fc be considered the only saw close to the Festool TS 75 as far as power and cutting depth? Also, I understand that the Mafell surpasses the Festool in these last two categories but can it achieve the same results such as a “glue ready” piece after the first pass that the festool seems to accomplish? I’ve read in some other forums that the TS75 performance wanes a bit when trying to cut hardwoods as deep as 2” (which I’m trying to do). Just trying to find out which one is closest to my needs! thanks!


7 replies so far

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Loren

8314 posts in 3114 days


#1 posted 12-26-2013 06:14 PM

Consistent glue-ready 2” hardwood from a Festool track saw?

No, I think not. Maybe here and there one would turn
out free of saw marks, but in my experience straight-lining
boards with the smaller Festool saw, it only produces a
clean rip in sheet goods consistently and even then you
have to feed the tool smoothly and without “english”.

The Protool CSP85, maybe. Vonhagen has one of those upside
down in his portable sliding table saw. He’s a member here
and may be able to tell you if the saw can rip those glue
joints with a rail guide.

These are carpentry and installation tools. Some people have found
them suitable for cabinet work.

Look at ripping with a band saw and jointing the edges with
a jointABILITY if a jointer is not going to work for you.

Hardwoods usually move one way or the other when tension
gets released in ripping and edge jointing really is the way
to go. Milling is best done in stages… straightline one
edge, rip the other parallel and over finished width
by perhaps 1/16” per lineal foot, let the wood move
overnight or longer, joint the concave edge (you
can joint the convex edge but I find it easier to do
the concave edge), then rip to finished width.

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HollywoodMarine78

5 posts in 1082 days


#2 posted 12-26-2013 07:10 PM

Thank you for your insightful response. I’m not so much hung up on a “glue-ready” cut but I have been impressed with what Festool has demonstrated and what some customers have said. The novice that I am, I’m just looking to get at least one purchase right the first time around. Whether that be just going with a state side big name saw paired with a expensive blade or looking at a Festool, Mafell, Protocol, etc…

“These are carpentry and installation tools. Some people have found
them suitable for cabinet work.”

I understand what you’re saying here, and I was hoping to get a variety of opinions on this particular class of circular saw (high power, quality, and good versatility) since my particular situation is limited to space more than anything else.

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mbs

1606 posts in 2407 days


#3 posted 12-26-2013 08:34 PM

I tried to do a full depth of cut with my TS55 in a very hard wood and it barely cut it. The saw got hot. The blade was in good shape. Certainly not glue ready finish.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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mbs

1606 posts in 2407 days


#4 posted 12-26-2013 08:35 PM

Is there a reason you want a track saw over a table saw?

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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HollywoodMarine78

5 posts in 1082 days


#5 posted 12-26-2013 08:41 PM

Severely limited in space. But… I just might be able to squeeze the Sawstop contractor saw with the most mobile base. If the Sawstop were a solution, I would not be able to keep it in one place.

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waho6o9

7179 posts in 2043 days


#6 posted 12-26-2013 08:46 PM

http://festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/mafell-mt55c-oooooh!/

Here’s a link to Festool USA and they talk about Festool vs. Mafell now and again.

Put a 16 or18 tooth Panther blade on a TS75 and eat’ll 2” hardwood all day long.

“Capable of cutting material that is 2-3/4” thick, this saw will leave an edge that is both burn and splinter-free, creating edges that are clean enough to glue without any further prep work.”

The above quote is from Festool’s website.

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mbs

1606 posts in 2407 days


#7 posted 12-29-2013 12:17 AM

To be fair, I was using the stock blade which wouldn’t be the correct blade to rip a thick board.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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