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Craftsman Table saw 21833

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Forum topic by Andrew Betschman posted 12-26-2013 04:23 PM 810 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andrew Betschman

284 posts in 1914 days


12-26-2013 04:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

I have a friend who is able to get one for $300.00 used. What are some of the pit falls of this saw. As far as I can tell its the same as the Ridgid R4512, Master Force, Dayton Scheppach. Any help is appreciated.

-- Andrew, Ohio http://andrewmbetschman.com/


6 replies so far

View Lifesaver2000's profile

Lifesaver2000

522 posts in 1803 days


#1 posted 12-26-2013 11:57 PM

I have had this saw for four years, built all the projects I have listed here on Lumberjocks plus a lot more, and am very happy with it. I still use the stock fence, but upgraded the miter gauge.

There has been a lot written about alignment problems, and some saws may be worse than others. A little searching will find solutions to most of the problems. The big thing is to make sure the 90 and 45 degree tilt stops are backed off before trying to align the blade. Early users were returning the saw because they could not get enough movement in the trunnions to align the blade to the miter slots, but backing off those stops should allow more than enough movement.

Another hint is to never align the blade or cut with the blade raised all the way up. There is a bit of racking when the blade hits the upper stop. Keeping the blade down a couple of cranks from the top is all that is needed, and you don’t loose much of the total cutting height.

I am sure some will say that these things are an indication of poor quality, and this certainly isn’t a Unisaw, but for the price I could not be happier (I paid $450 new, and that included a very nice digital tilt readout). With a new, sharp thin-kerf rip blade, I have easily cut oak two inches thick (that is the thickest I have needed to try). As the blade dulls, things can start to be more difficult, since at 1-3/4 hp their isn’t enough extra power to overcome the dull blade, but I made it three years on my first 24 tooth Freud rip blade before it became necessary to replace it.

I also will say I routinely rip boards for table top glue ups and use them right “off the blade” without any further jointing being necessary for a tight joint.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

895 posts in 2304 days


#2 posted 12-27-2013 12:22 AM

Another hint is to never align the blade or cut with the blade raised all the way up. There is a bit of racking when the blade hits the upper stop. I am sure some will say that these things are an indication of poor quality…

This is a problem with the basic design of the saw. This has been discussed many times here. The trunnion should not rack! If you are going to lay down 1/2 $k, shouldn’t you expect more?

And, yes, this is the same as the Ridgid 4512, etc, etc. None of these manufacturers did it because it resulted in a more reliable saw, only because it was cheaper to manufacture.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View greenacres2's profile

greenacres2

95 posts in 859 days


#3 posted 12-27-2013 12:49 AM

Got mine in January 2013 for under $350 new with a coupon, discount, purchase “online” from my car in their parking lot then walk in to pick up—stuff that makes me ask “if you can sell it for that, why can’t you just price it that way instead of making me feel like a shopping gymnast????”. That said, the R4512 is a 13 amp motor and pay extra for dado throat plate, 21833 is 15 amp and includes dado plate. Acceptable fence, but for the difference in net price with the 4512 i was able to add a used TS-LS.

I’m satisfied with what i got for my money. Would i buy it new at $500? No. Would i buy it used at $300? Probably not—unless it had a decent blade or two thrown in—but not the stock unit. I’d have to have some aftermarket extras to get close to 3 bills used. Would i sell mine for $300? Yes, if i had a line on a used Uni or PM at great price (at a time i can afford it—might take a while).

earl

View Andrew Betschman's profile

Andrew Betschman

284 posts in 1914 days


#4 posted 12-27-2013 03:03 AM

What are the model numbers for the two lee craft inserts?

-- Andrew, Ohio http://andrewmbetschman.com/

View Lifesaver2000's profile

Lifesaver2000

522 posts in 1803 days


#5 posted 12-27-2013 05:25 PM

Here is a quote from the manual for the Sawstop PCS: “When setting the tilt angle and blade elevation, be sure to back the handwheels off slightly after reaching the stop limits. As with all table saws, pulling the handwheels tight against the limit stops can cause a slight twisting of the trunnion assembly and lead to inaccurate alignment measurements.”

I guess if a $3000 saw has to have that warning, I am glad I only paid $450 for one where I am doing the exact same thing they say to do. Me, I don’t worry about things that just don’t matter. I have never, ever, in the over four years I have had the saw needed to cut anything where I had to have the blade all the way up, or even close. So, it just doesn’t matter. If you need to have perfectly accurate alignment with the blade all the way up against the stop, then I recommend you do not buy the 21833 or a Sawstop. I can’t speak for other saws (although apparently SS can, as quoted above).

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

241 posts in 816 days


#6 posted 12-27-2013 11:58 PM

The R4512s that have the problem can be much worse. I looked at three where you didn’t have to take it to the top to rack the trunions. Just changing direction caused the blade to shift 1/8th to the side.

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