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Roubo Workbench End Vise Question

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Forum topic by marsy00 posted 220 days ago 488 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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marsy00

15 posts in 659 days


220 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: workbench bench roubo lie-neilsen vise end vise

Hello all,

I’m designing my first “real” workbench and looking to get started this week. The design is based heavily on the Roubo in Chris Schwarz’s book.

I’m sold on a leg vise for the front, and I’m 90% sold on a twin screw vise on the end. I’m looking at the lie nielsen twin screw vise—while I was hoping to avoid spending that kind of money—it looks like a really good solution.

My question is this:

The vise instructions show a wide apron around the perimeter of the bench that must be modified to accommodate the stand offs, and drilled through for the screws to pass. My bench will have a 4” solid top with no apron. Is there any reason, I cant just screw the stand offs directly to the bottom of the bench and use the end of the bench itself as the rear jaw?

Link to the instructions here: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/content/documents/instructions/ChainDriveViseInstruction.pdf

Thanks!
Marshall


6 replies so far

View theoldfart's profile

theoldfart

3902 posts in 1055 days


#1 posted 220 days ago

I think you would need to distribute clamping force across the entire end and not focus it on a single top plank. That stress could fracture your glue lines. I have an apron across the end of my current batch and am planning on the same for my new bench build.
I just reread your post and you say you have a solid top so maybe not as critical on glue lines but I still think there could be some deformation on the end grain from clamping stress.

-- "Aged flatus, I heard that some one has already blown out your mortise." THE Surgeon ……………………………………. Kevin

View danoaz's profile

danoaz

141 posts in 774 days


#2 posted 220 days ago

Marshall – Kind of hard for me to explain but it has to do with getting equal pressure on both front and back side of the material or else it would start to pull in the front bottom in further once the top stops. This would create an uneven torquing action. Does that make sense?

-- "Simplicity and repose are the qualities that measure the true value of any work of art." Frank LLoyd Wright

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marsy00

15 posts in 659 days


#3 posted 220 days ago

Thanks for the replies. I just finished my sketchup model that shows what I’m talking about (adapted a model of Chris Schwarz’s bench found online). As far as I can tell, the mounting of the hardware is basically the same as instructed in the Lie Nielsen instructions, with the exception that the vise screws arent going through an apron on the bench. The standoffs are mounted to the bottom of the bench the same as lie nielsen shows.

The benchtop is yellow pine and I’m thinking walnut for the end cap and vise jaw. Thoughts, feedback, recommendations appreciated!

Thanks!

View richardwootton's profile

richardwootton

1099 posts in 559 days


#4 posted 220 days ago

How are you attaching the end cap to the top? Are you going to use bread boards?

-- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training

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marsy00

15 posts in 659 days


#5 posted 220 days ago

Breadboard is what I’m thinking… three tenons. The center one glued and pinned and the outer two floating.

I’m open for suggestions though. Like I said this is my first design.

After thinking about my last post, I could increase the width of the breadboard and it basically becomes the apron from the lie nielsen plan, but I guess I don’t understand why that would be advantageous.

Thanks
Marshall

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

9614 posts in 1223 days


#6 posted 220 days ago

Straight to end grain, hope this helps.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56018

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

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