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Forum topic by LGrey posted 12-14-2008 07:05 PM 20771 views 0 times favorited 53 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


12-14-2008 07:05 PM

Hello Everyone -

Yesterday I was given – FREE – a Craftsman 10” Contractor, belt drive, table saw #113.298762.

The gent who gave it to me says it works, however, the arbor bearing went out on it.  So he bought a new arbor and bearing (he gave me the invoice to show it) but said that when he used the saw it kept slipping off on him.  He said he knew he had to of put it back together wrong and finally gave up on it and bought a
smaller, lighter version (he just turned 75 and said the bigger one was getting harder to move around his shop) last summer and just let this one set.

So now I have questions. 

The last time he took it apart he just left it in pieces.  All the parts are there (including a new belt) so all I need to do is reattach the motor and the two side extensions, and fix the arbor problems. The elevation and tilt mechanisms are still working well.

He did cut a little portal next to the end of the arbor to make it easier to work on and the arbor and bearing are in place.

I was up till 12:30AM fiddling with it. The arbor pulley will not budge with the screw removed. I wanted to see if the bearing would move so I pulled it towards the pulley. I did move, but will not go back towards the housing. I sprayed the pulley with a healthy dose of PB Blaster Oil before I called it quits for the night. I’ll check today to see if I can get the pulley off. I woke up this AM remembering that either my father, or father-n-law, has a small pulley puller that might work.

Any Ideas on how to remove the pulley without damaging it or the other parts?

Also, the rip fence did not come with it.  I can get an original rip fence for it, but if I wanted to go with a different one/brand how do I know what would work with it?

I would love to get a new rip fence, but money won’t allow it right now so I will either have to buy an original from someone or a used, fancier one. I just want to make sure that what I buy will work. I have contacted the guy who gave it to me to see if he still has the original rip fence and would be willing to part with it. I’m hoping it was just an oversight and he forgot to throw it in with the rest of the parts.

Also, I’ve been told that there is an upgrade pulley set. Anyone know the part numbers or where to go to buy them?

One last thing. The yellow ‘lock’ button on the power switch is missing. Will this thing work if it’s missing?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers!
Larry
Kansas, USA

Our House Restoration Blog
http://simpsonsfolly.blogspot.com/

My ’63 SIIa 88 Land Rover Blog
http://grover-the-rover.blogspot.com/


53 replies so far

View Woodchuck1957's profile

Woodchuck1957

944 posts in 2421 days


#1 posted 12-14-2008 08:12 PM

You may want to take a flashlight and look into the set screw hole and make sure there isn’t another set screw inside, sometimes there are. A set of machined pulleys can be bought at Inline Industries I highly recommend that you replace the old V-belt with the link belt that they sell. I doubt that the switch will work without the key. If someday your looking to buy a good fence, Lowes has the Delta T2 for about $150

View lew's profile

lew

10034 posts in 2412 days


#2 posted 12-14-2008 08:40 PM

I have never use this saw but here is a web site that may help you:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=113.298762

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#3 posted 12-14-2008 08:43 PM

Woodchuck1957 -

Thanks for the info – especially the link for the pulleys!!

I will take a look at the set screw again, but it came out easily. I’m beginning to thing the pulley is jamed on the woodruff key.

As for the switch, any thoughts on a substitute key till I can get one ordered in? I’m just wanting to make sure the saw works. I don’t plan on using it till I get a replacement key. It looks like nothing more than one of those safety shields you put in a light socket. Our local Sears Parts store moved and I’m not sure where it went to, so if I can find it I’m going to see if they might have one at their location.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

893 posts in 2270 days


#4 posted 12-14-2008 08:44 PM

For reference, here’s a site that details bearing replacement on a saw that’s probably similar to yours:
Bearing replacement

I am currently working on an 8” Craftsman that had a stubborn pulley, also. A bearing puller got it off, but the pulley was damaged enough that I will replace it. It bent the side of the belt trough enough that it would pinch the belt if I put it back in service.

On my 10” saw I replaced the original fence with a Ridgid AC1036 fence. These are made specifically for your model (and similar) Craftsman table saws and is a perfect fit. Highly recommended! You can see pictures under my projects. If you can live with the old fence (truth be told, my original fence wasn’t all that bad), you can find them for sale on Ebay all the time.

The switch most likely will not work withotu that key. It was made specifically to allow locking out the power switch.

Good luck!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#5 posted 12-14-2008 08:46 PM

lew -

go figure…the Sears Parts Direct I’ve been using is down for maintenance. I wonder how many of these there are?

View lew's profile

lew

10034 posts in 2412 days


#6 posted 12-14-2008 08:55 PM

Just tried the link and it worked? If you are using IE, try holding down the control key when clicking the link. You may have an old temp file cached.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Woodchuck1957's profile

Woodchuck1957

944 posts in 2421 days


#7 posted 12-14-2008 08:57 PM

If the guy you got the saw from doesn’t have the key, maybe a local sears store would have them on hand. I bought a paddle type switch from Woodtek to replace the tiny toggle switch I had on my Delta saw. I’m pretty happy with it.

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#8 posted 12-14-2008 09:15 PM

Okay – update….

The yellow ‘key’ is typically carried as an ‘in-stock’ item at the larger Sears Craftsman departments. Our local Sears has one of the largest Craftsman departments I’ve ever seen. I also found out where the Sears parts store has moved to in my area. So, the key should not be hard to replace – just pricey for a piece of plastic.

The good news is that the motor works!!!! I went out side to take a look at the switch housing and it dawned on me that the motor plugs into the switch. So, I plugged the motor into a surge protector and then turned it on. It sounded great!!!

As for the rip fence… If the guy who gave it to me doesn’t have the fence I will probably get one off eBay until I can afford a better one (I’m currently out of work).

EEngineer – thanks for that link! This will help. To be honest, now that I think about it, I do not remember seeing the two retainer rings, or washer that go on the outside part of the shaft (facing the pulley), but the one on the housing side is there but was not in the grove.

So, things are looking really good for this saw!

View lazyfiremaninTN's profile

lazyfiremaninTN

528 posts in 2610 days


#9 posted 12-14-2008 09:16 PM

All the Sears that I have been to seem to sell replacement “keys”. I think that they come in a 2 pack. I have a Craftsman Contractor that I got from Greg3G, and before he sold it to me, he installed a new pulley/ Link belt set and I have had minimal vibration.

-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#10 posted 12-14-2008 09:35 PM

lew – here is the one I had bookmarked: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/outOfService.action

As for IE – I switched over to FireFox about three weeks ago.

Woodchuck1957 – I do like the idea of the bigger switch so that’s on the list of upgrades. I like the idea of being able to turn it off with my knee. I’ve also thought about one of those foot off/on switches.

You all have no idea how excited I am at getting this saw!

About 6 months ago I got a B&D Firestorm 10” 15-Amp table saw w/stand because it was all I could afford and I was tired of borrowing my dads table saw (I’m in the middle of restoring a house). The current saw isn’t a bad one, in fact it has worked great, but the top slots are not standard so the track kits do not fit and the insert assembly is a rectangular size so it’s next to impossible to make a 0 clearance insert.

This table saw is going to greatly increase my woodworking possibilities, especially since I need to build cabinets!

View lew's profile

lew

10034 posts in 2412 days


#11 posted 12-14-2008 09:41 PM

This one will take you directly to your saw:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=113.298762

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#12 posted 12-14-2008 09:43 PM

lew -

Much appreciated! It turns out my parents are shopping in the same strip mall that the Sears Parts store is located in. He is going to pop in and see if they have it. If not, I’ll just go to Sears on Tuesday.

Thanks again for the help.

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#13 posted 12-14-2008 10:01 PM

Yellow Key up-date.

Dad just called me. He was able to pick up a pack of the keys and yes, there are two in a pack.

WOOWHOO!!!!!

View Woodwayze's profile

Woodwayze

63 posts in 2742 days


#14 posted 12-14-2008 10:44 PM

Hi LGrey,

I hope you get the saw working ok, but please don’t forget that the whole thing will need a proper set-up, before you use it, to get the safest and best use out of the saw.

Blade MUST be parallel with the mitre-guide channel and the rip fence MUST be parallel with the guide-channel.

It’s easy to adjust the saw to attain this, but difficult to explain in words on a forum. I believe it’s covered in Kelly Mehler’s book on the circular saw though.

If I am teaching you to suck eggs, my apologies! Enjoy that saw!

Regards

John

-- Working fast helps you to arrive at your mistakes in spectacular fashion. (Me 2009!)

View LGrey's profile

LGrey

30 posts in 2107 days


#15 posted 12-14-2008 11:02 PM

Heya John -

Any bit of info I can learn is welcomed. What is this book you are talking about?

I have thought about completely taking the saw apart and reassembling it per the manual. I figure this would be a good way to make sure all the parts are really there, it would allow me to get to know the saw better, and it would allow me to clean it better.

I did notice that the manual has a detailed section on blade set-up and general set-up. I’m going to pay a lot of attention to this section.

I am really getting pumped about this whole thing!

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