Two routers same problem

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Forum topic by mahdee posted 12-15-2013 02:57 PM 826 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mahdee's profile


3457 posts in 1187 days

12-15-2013 02:57 PM

Hi folks,
I have two Sears craftsman routers, one older than the other. When I use either one, the bit tends to move down regardless of how much it is tightened. I don’t try to do the job in one pass, so that is not the problem. Do I need new collars for these?


13 replies so far

View Dutchy's profile


1971 posts in 1588 days

#1 posted 12-15-2013 03:07 PM

Hello mrjinx,


What is the lenght of your routerbit shank? Is it the same as your collar? When your callar is 1 1/2 inch your shank has to have the same length inside the shank. When you are routing with te tip of your bit (You write that you do it in little steps) there is much more fibration. So how long is your total bit?

-- My englisch is bad but how is your dutch?

View kaerlighedsbamsen's profile


1170 posts in 1133 days

#2 posted 12-15-2013 03:11 PM

Some chucks are sensitive to oil. Have you tryed degreasing them and perhaps a light grind w fine sandpaper on the mating surfaces?

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

View bondogaposis's profile


3969 posts in 1771 days

#3 posted 12-15-2013 03:16 PM

Is the bit slipping in the collet or is motor slipping in the base? I have had more problems w/ the latter on my old Craftsman router. The fix for it is to take the motor off the base and give it a thorough cleaning, do not lubricate the surfaces between the 2 that secure the motor in position, rather scuff them up w/ 180 grit sandpaper. That should make it so it doesn’t slip.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View mahdee's profile


3457 posts in 1187 days

#4 posted 12-15-2013 04:20 PM

Thanks for the replies.
The bits are from Sears as well, I think 2” long and 1/4” in diameter. bondo, it is the bit that moves down. I put the bit all the way down so the shank does not show, but by the second run, I can see the shank. Will try to degrease and see what happens.. Thanks again.


View WhoMe's profile


1441 posts in 2663 days

#5 posted 12-15-2013 04:36 PM

After reading your last comment, it makes me wonder if you are bottoming the shank in the motor and not allowing it to tighten fully. As you probably know, when the collet is tightened, it moves towards the motor on the threads. Ideally, the routes bit should move as much as the collet when tightening. It’s it possible that you are bottoming out the bit in the motor when you tighten the collet?
Maybe you can also try keeping about 3/16”- 1/4” more of the bits shank exposed when tightening and see if that does anything.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

View pintodeluxe's profile


4825 posts in 2233 days

#6 posted 12-15-2013 04:52 PM

Most router bits should not be inserted fully into the collet. The diameter increases slightly where the shank meets the bit, and there is usually a burr. Try holding the bit 1/8” out of the collet, so it can tighten fully.
Also, 1/2” bits tend to grip tighter in the collet than 1/4” bits.

I have had nothing but trouble with Craftsman and Hitachi routers.

I like Freud and Dewalt routers.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View a1Jim's profile


115172 posts in 2997 days

#7 posted 12-15-2013 05:05 PM

Given my experience the word “SEARS” says it all .

-- Custom furniture

View woodsmithshop's profile


1250 posts in 2965 days

#8 posted 12-15-2013 05:08 PM

Amen to “SEARS”

-- Smitty!!!

View Grandpa's profile


3256 posts in 2095 days

#9 posted 12-15-2013 07:47 PM

I own some of the older Sear Craftsman router and have no real problems with them. Some of the newer routers are pure junk. I think the guys up above are giving you some good advice. The router bit have a radius machine on them where the shank becomes the actual cutter. This is left on the bits to prevent the shank from breaking off. If it were cut square there would be a stress point and the head would break off the shank at 25,000 RPM. put the bit into the collet as far as it will go them pull it out 1/16 inch according to the book. This keeps the collet from gripping on the larger radius then slipping. IF you leave it out of the collet too far it will not have a good grip so this is important.

View Nicky's profile


695 posts in 3512 days

#10 posted 12-15-2013 08:37 PM

I think whome nailed it. Sound like the bit is bottoming out.

I use 1/2” o-rings in the collect, gives enough when I tighten down on the bits. Works for me.

-- Nicky

View mnguy's profile


183 posts in 2818 days

#11 posted 12-15-2013 09:10 PM

I second whome, Grandpa and Nicky; I always push my bits all the way into the collet, and then pull them back out ~1/8”. This ensures they are firmly set into the collet but not bottomed out.

If this approach doesn’t help, try a new collet, or a new router :)

View mahdee's profile


3457 posts in 1187 days

#12 posted 12-16-2013 11:19 PM

Thanks guys for all the input. I normally do allow 1/2” of the shank stick out. Pushed the bit all the way in to see if it is the bit or the motor that is moving and obviously it is the bit no matter how far in or out it is. Most of my tools are 20 years + sears stuff. Do sure have lasted a long time, but today’s tools have improved a whole lot. A lows, they have a 1/2”, 2-3/4horse skill that has the fix base and the plunge for 120, while another name brand with similar specifications sells for 230. Anyone has the skill?


View JustJoe's profile


1554 posts in 1458 days

#13 posted 12-16-2013 11:26 PM

What model routers are these? Depending on the type you may be able to just buy new collets.

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