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Forum topic by BubingaBill posted 12-09-2013 08:17 PM 1229 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


12-09-2013 08:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig oak tablesaw joining

I have been working on making a 10 sided case for pool cues and I have run into a small snag. My sled is not working right. This is my first attempt at making a case like this and my first attempt at making a sled!
My design used hold down brackets to keep my material in place. I set my table saw to 18 degrees and cut away with scrap materials. After making 5 pieces I taped them together to see how it was going. I failed… the 2 ends should lay flat on my bench but they are off by a few degrees. I tried again after adjusting the saw angle a bit and got it!! A perfect half circle and all the joints were nice and tight.
So I broke out some nice red oak and started cutting. After cutting 5 sections I checked them and again I was off!! All the joints fit nicely but they don’t make a half circle. Here are some pictures including the jig I made.

I’m thinking of a jig to hold the oak to the bottom of the jig with 2 sided tape. Keeping the boards right on top of the saw might increase the accuracy of the cut. My last jig held the oak about 3/4” above the table top while cutting.
Any thoughts???

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!


23 replies so far

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Texcaster

1140 posts in 1138 days


#1 posted 12-09-2013 08:28 PM

Your angle is off ( really? ) You could just make two halves, shoot the edges on the jointer and join the halves.
It looks like most of the cut will be on the inside.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#2 posted 12-09-2013 08:35 PM

I guess I should mention I don’t have a plainer or jointer or a 4’ belt sander. I was hoping to keep the case 10 sided but I guess I could sand it to be round.

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#3 posted 12-09-2013 08:37 PM

I found out I was tightening the jig so much that I was bending the bottom board! That was taking away from my angle. So I rebuilt the jig on a 2×6. same results and another set of 5 oak pieces down the tubes!

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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Mark Davisson

597 posts in 2782 days


#4 posted 12-09-2013 08:42 PM

You’re talking about 20 cuts here. If each cut is off by an eighth of a degree, the compound effect will be 2-1/2 degrees, and that’s a lot. All your joints will fit together nicely until the last one, and that will be gap city.

I’d do exactly what Texcaster suggested – make two halves then cheat with the jointer.

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#5 posted 12-09-2013 08:53 PM

Thanks Mark but I still don’t have a jointer…

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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Monte Pittman

22021 posts in 1803 days


#6 posted 12-09-2013 10:16 PM

I have made mugs with various numbers of sides. It can be messy, but I glue and assemble all of the sides at once. Then I use large hose clamps around them to hold them tight till they dry. Should work for your que’s as well.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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kaerlighedsbamsen

1177 posts in 1178 days


#7 posted 12-09-2013 10:20 PM

I dont think you are off a lot. Remeber that with 5 boards there is 10 places your angle has to be perfect. That cals for ultra precize..
Looking forward to see the rest!

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

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Mark Davisson

597 posts in 2782 days


#8 posted 12-10-2013 01:14 AM

Bubinga: Sorry, I guess I was composing my post while you were posting that you don’t own a jointer.

Rather than jointing, then, another idea would be to sand the halves flat. You can buy a sanding belt, cut it and then tape it (double-sided) to a flat surface. You’d want to be sure you apply even pressure along the length of the case half.

I spent several months of my life trying to create perfectly-mitered picture frames. I built more sleds and jigs than I can remember. I’m only making 8 cuts compared to your 20 cuts. Me being off an eighth of a degree results in a 1 degree problem. For you it results in a 2-1/2 degree problem.

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#9 posted 12-10-2013 01:37 AM

There was a thread about doing something just like this a few months ago. I believe it was shipwright who showed how to do these with a birds mouth joint. Divided 360 by the number of joints and set the table saw to that angle…etc. I’m gonna look for it.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#10 posted 12-10-2013 01:41 AM

Here it is.

http://lumberjocks.com/FatherHooligan/blog/36736

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#11 posted 12-10-2013 03:55 AM

Bill this is a winner!! I love the look before it gets sanded smooth! I will be tryimg this over the weekend for sure.
Thank you!!

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#12 posted 12-10-2013 04:16 AM

Good luck and may you not waste any more oak. If you need help, I would pm shipwright. I’m sure he would happy to help.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#13 posted 12-10-2013 04:01 PM

I have reached out to Shipwright before I burn through the little oak I have left. I’m going to run my project by him before starting. I’m hoping he has a few more pictures of how he makes his.
The material he cuts off is what I want to keep! I like the idea of having “Fins” running the length of my case. I don’t know if it’s a good idea or not but worth some sawdust to find out!!
Thanks again Bill

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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shipwright

7173 posts in 2263 days


#14 posted 12-10-2013 07:44 PM

Actually Bill, the parts that you see in Mark’s assembly shouldn’t exist. He wasn’t assembling it correctly. When assembled properly you should have a clean hexagon, octagon or whatever with no protruding “off-cuts”. The only photo I have available to me right now is from my “Little Cabinetree” piece and it is not a good example for two reasons.
First, it is assembled with hips sticking out which may actually suit your plan perfectly.
Secondly, it is an octagon which is the one polygon that can be cut on the tablesaw by simply turning the board over because both cuts are 45 degrees. That’s OK but doesn’t demonstrate the “one cut on edge and the other on the flat, same saw angle” that a different number of sides requires. I’ve answered here instead of your PM because I can’t attach photos there.

Hope his helps. I’ll keep an eye on the thread.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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BubingaBill

290 posts in 1149 days


#15 posted 12-10-2013 08:04 PM

Shipwright,
This is not bad. I need more room inside so I am going to use 1/4” or 3/16” oak. Do you see an issue with that? All the pictures I have found show very thick stock. Most likely because they are not making a box out of it! I am not worried too much about strength because I plan on filling mine with expanding foam around the pool cue parts. This will leave me with 2 very deep holes for the 2 halves of the cue. The foam should help the oak from flexing when the case is carried or (God forbid) dropped. I will try and slap a drawing together with Sketchup and see if I can post it soon.

-- Measure twice and try not to cut your thumbs off!

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