The Trials of Bubinga

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Forum topic by DrDirt posted 12-11-2008 07:15 PM 4408 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4389 posts in 3521 days

12-11-2008 07:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bubinga question modern

We visited Kansas City this past weekend and went to the Metro Hardwoods store.
I got some beautiful 8/4 Bubinga, which I am planning to make into a Rocker using the plans of Hal Taylor.

The question i have is about gluing – I have seen on David Marks he edge glued his chair seat with Titebond.
As always he does the laminations with Unibond 800 or Weldwood resin glue.

From the general wood descriptions from suppliers they mention difficulty gluing because of sap pockets. Is this manageable by an acetone wipedown? Take a fresh pass across the jointer and glue before any oxidation happens, switch to an epoxy???
I would appreciate the insights of those who have already crossed this bridge.


-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

6 replies so far

View MattH's profile


27 posts in 3417 days

#1 posted 12-12-2008 07:19 AM

Bubinga will glue up just fine – I’ve built guitars with it (acoustics) with tiny glue joints and they hold just fine without lots of treatment. Just make certain that the joint is good before gluing.

There will be pieces which are oily, but they’re kind of obvious – they’ll FEEL oily. Mostly, I just get a good surface on the glue faces by sanding or jointing just before gluing, and then use either hot hide glue or titebond.

-- Death before dishonour; nothing before coffee

View DrDirt's profile


4389 posts in 3521 days

#2 posted 12-12-2008 04:34 PM

Hi Matt Thanks
In this my biggest worry is for there to be seperation along the glueline or the seat once it is sculpted. I had seen tabletops which were edgeglued but they have skirting and a fairly substantial thickness/gluing area.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View jeffthewoodwacker's profile


603 posts in 3583 days

#3 posted 12-13-2008 12:08 AM

The best way to avoid joint failure with bubinga is to try and do the glue up as soon as possible after cutting the stock to size. I have used titebond II successfully to glue up bubinga.

-- Those that say it can't be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.

View MattH's profile


27 posts in 3417 days

#4 posted 12-15-2008 08:19 AM

Jeff’s right – joint and glue asap when dealing with bubinga; it seems to oxidize pretty rapidly. And make sure that the joint is tight – it’s not a forgiving wood with iffy joinery.

-- Death before dishonour; nothing before coffee

View lashing's profile


109 posts in 2600 days

#5 posted 07-15-2011 09:37 PM

Bubinga, cocobolo, Brazilan RW … its all oily dense stuff and its all ben glued successfully millions times over.

Its getting harder to find people who actually know what they are talking about with glues, finishes etc at point of purchase. My local lumberyard tells me Unibond 800 is illegal in Canada and wont stick to maple. Both false. Just a for instance.

View agallant's profile


551 posts in 2665 days

#6 posted 07-16-2011 05:21 AM

+1 for glue shortly after cutting. It is my wood of choice and I have never had an issue with it coming apart. If I can get away with it I try to reinforce all of my joints with a biscuit.

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