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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 12-05-2013 02:03 PM 1330 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


12-05-2013 02:03 PM

I’ve been trying to solve a nagging accuracy problem in our crating department. After looking into several options a customer of ours showed me their solution, and this is my modification of their design.

I’m ordering 1” bar stock and am going to make it on our tool room lathe and milling machine as soon as it arrives.

Want to guess what it’s for?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!


18 replies so far

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#1 posted 12-05-2013 07:13 PM

Hint #1

we’re trying to solve this problem (economically)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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shelly_b

848 posts in 842 days


#2 posted 12-05-2013 07:20 PM

does it have something to do with drilling a centered hole?

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69BBNova

338 posts in 941 days


#3 posted 12-05-2013 07:36 PM

I can’t help but think it captures a nut to start and/or tighten it…

Or screw on a threaded rod/bolt to move a heavy load,

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#4 posted 12-05-2013 07:42 PM

Give that gal a gold star…

But the plot thickens…. why is this needed?

Normally you drill the counter bore first, and then use indent from the counter bore guide pin to center up the bit for the through hole….

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#5 posted 12-05-2013 07:43 PM

I can’t help but think it captures a nut to start and/or tighten it…
Or screw on a threaded rod/bolt to move a heavy load,

your thinkin’ but Shelly is closer to the mark…. it has to do with lining up the counter bore under “abnormal” circumstances.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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ClayandNancy

479 posts in 1740 days


#6 posted 12-05-2013 07:46 PM

Drilling a thru hole from both sides so as to line up the bit

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2373 days


#7 posted 12-05-2013 07:51 PM

redrilling on center for repurposing crates/pallets ?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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bondogaposis

2698 posts in 1076 days


#8 posted 12-05-2013 07:52 PM

Is it for making a counter bore around a hole that already exists.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#9 posted 12-05-2013 08:03 PM

Bondo nailed it!

A little trick I learned is that if you forget to drill the counter bore first, you can take a scrap of plywood, and drill a through hole with the Forstner bit. Then center the plywood over the hole and tack it in place. Now when you drill the counter bore, the Forstner bit will be guided by the perimeter of the circle.

But there’s still a twist, as in this case, the through hole is >8” deep and MUST be drilled from the top side with a template to ensure critical positioning. We used self feeding ship auger bits in a Super Hole Hawg, and no matter how hard you try, you can’t drill the hole perfectly perpendicular. So when you do the plywood guide on the bottom, you start on center and at depth, you wind up off center, as there’s no way to follow the axis of the through hole.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#10 posted 12-05-2013 08:15 PM

Here’s a diagram that illustrates the problem…

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#11 posted 12-05-2013 08:17 PM

Here’s how a machinist would solve the problem… but these are not made in large sizes (at least not that I could find)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#12 posted 12-05-2013 08:18 PM

Here’s an expensive German woodworking solution. But again, not made in large sizes…

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#13 posted 12-05-2013 08:20 PM

This is what our customer came up with…

I noticed that the mounting shank on both pilots are slightly bent…. so I’m hoping that I have improved on their design…. but only time will tell.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#14 posted 12-05-2013 08:36 PM

Here’s a slick drill guide by Pro-Tool that Timber Framers use to ensure their peg holes are bored plumb…. With the drill, it’s about an $800 set up.

My boss likes it, but we’ve met our customer needs eyeballing it with the Hole Hawg for years… and now this one customer is kicking our buts. The only problem is, they only order every 3 months or so…. and their in-house generated design is not at all common (nor iaw. any ASTM or Mil. Specs for crating)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

4351 posts in 1053 days


#15 posted 12-05-2013 08:47 PM

We picked up one of these beasts at an auction for our maintenance dept., so we tried it out with decent results. But the thing weighs a ton and has a electro magnet base (It’s made for drilling into the bottom of an eye beam up in the ceiling with a 6” hole saw :^o )

We used it on the last order with good results. But the thing has to be screwed down to the timber and it took two mean an hour to drill and counter bore 4 holes….. not going to make any money that way.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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