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| Forum topic by birdman | posted 354 days ago | 544 views | 0 times favorited | 15 replies | ![]() |
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354 days ago |
The tabletops on my semi-new jointer/planer are tough to keep clean. One problem is I didn’t do a real good job of cleaning them before I started using the jointer. The cast iorn surfaces were really full of oil. Anyway, now they seem to keep a lot of resin, etc . I read something about using varnish and then rubbing it out with sawdust. That’s supposed to leave a very slick feel, which is what I need because I am not getting real smooth push-throughs. I tried body powder but that seems to gunk up. Anyone know a quick way to mainaintain this type surface once I do get it clean? -- DavidP - still count on my fingers and toes - not for math, just inventory! |
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354 days ago |
I found some good advice here http://www.newwoodworker.com/clncstirn.html – very good site for beginners like me and good reminders for all you experts. -- DavidP - still count on my fingers and toes - not for math, just inventory! |
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354 days ago |
I clean my iron with mineral spirits and apply either paste wax or Top Cote as a lube / protectant. -- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread... |
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354 days ago |
I use wax on the tops. i don’t have a problem with surface rust because of moisture in the air. I did get a bunch of rust with Cypress dust that covered all of the tools and i didn’t clean it off for a week or two. Lots of dust and lots of rust. -- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com † |
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354 days ago |
What Barry said… I also like the convenience of a can of spray furniture polish like Pledge for a quick touch up, easy to wipe on,wipeoff… If you have concerns that the paste or spray wax may cause future issues with paint sticking, fisheyes etc.,or you don’t have any paste wax available, a light( very light) coat of spray on cooking oil like Pam will give you a non silicone/teflon surface but will require reapplication every now and then depending on your usage. Good luck and keep us posted. Q -- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch." |
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354 days ago |
I clean my iron with mineral spirits and steel wool then a good coat of T9 followed by a good floor wax…repete as needed …If you have rust use mineral spirits and wet/dry sandpaper 220 or 320 |
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354 days ago |
You didn’t say anything about a rust problem so I say wax on and wax off…........ the more the better. I’ve noticed that some woods leave more residue than others. Just don’t let it get too thick. -- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood. |
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354 days ago |
what Barry said , and don’t forget keep your blades and cutters clean of pitch and resin – - |
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353 days ago |
I use wd 40 to clean with. it’ll help prevent rust and will remove rust that is there. If the iron starts to rust i will rub with a green scotch pad or even use it with a hand sander after spraying with wd40. Then take a towl and remove the wd40. After that I use furniture paste wax, let dry and wipe off and buff. -- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com |
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353 days ago |
Yup, I agree with everyone else: Johnson’s floor wax! -- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings |
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353 days ago |
Thinking about this at work today. I saw on one of your other posts, you mentioned that the preservative oil residue this was shipped with had turned kind of gummy and was hard to clean. If mineral spirits or other solvent don’t take care of this, you may have to use something like ‘easy-off’ – an oven cleaner to remove the shipping cosmoline grease. Then WD-40 and wax away… Q -- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch." |
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352 days ago |
And when you’re not using the tools, it’s a good idea to leave the cast-iron covered by a piece of wood. -- Gary, Florida |
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351 days ago |
BOESHIELD…...........I swear by it. But I live in a very dry climate. I can put on a heavy coat and let it sit for a couple of days and it feels like the top is glass coated. The stuff is awesome!! Its available at just about all woodwroking stores -- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com |
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350 days ago |
I use minral spirits to clean my new surfaces to remove all the oil and grease then apply two coats of a product called “top coat” it’s a sealer and surface lubricant and if used all the time (once a month or so ) the surface stays very slick and it will not stain any wood, I have been using it for years although it is a bit expensive around 16.00 can. -- rob, ont,canada |
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350 days ago |
Minewral spirits and 600 grit paper will get it reall clean. Then wipe it down with a clean rag and more mineral spirite. After it is cleean a good thick coat of paste wax will leave it nice and slick. Add a new coat when ever it starts getting tough to slide peices on it. |
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349 days ago |
rather than using 600-grit paper, use mineral spirits and white scotchbrite – this will clean without compromising the flatness of the tables. And then, LOTS of Johnson’s floor wax…. -- Death before dishonour; nothing before coffee |
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