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Quick Bandsaw blade change?

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Forum topic by CharlesA posted 11-30-2013 05:39 PM 654 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CharlesA

1518 posts in 464 days


11-30-2013 05:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

I’m sure the answer is no, and that I should stop whining, but I’ll ask anyway.

For a number of reasons I keep a 1/2” blade in my bandsaw much of the time, but I need to change the blade for a curved cut today. Changing the blade, with requisite changes in the bearings, etc., is a pain for such a short job.

Have you learned anything from your experience on how to make a quicker blade change?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson


15 replies so far

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2128 days


#1 posted 11-30-2013 05:46 PM

Buy a second saw

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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jumbojack

1189 posts in 1290 days


#2 posted 11-30-2013 06:19 PM

I feel your whine.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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Loren

7624 posts in 2314 days


#3 posted 11-30-2013 06:23 PM

+1 MedicKen.

On some saws the blade comes out a slot in the front
of the table and I have found it easier to change blades
on these saws than the ones with the slot to the side.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3390 posts in 1479 days


#4 posted 11-30-2013 07:36 PM

Like you, most of my cuts are made with a 1/2” 3 tpi blade. It resaws well, and will cut a gentle curve.
For tighter radius cuts, I decide if it’s worth the time to change blades. If not, I just grab the jigsaw.

Sometimes you can get away with cutting a curve with a 1/2” or 3/8” blade, as long as you make relief cuts.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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CharlesA

1518 posts in 464 days


#5 posted 11-30-2013 07:36 PM

I went ahead and out the 1/4 blade on, and since I had spent so much time working with it on last blade change, it actually went pretty quickly.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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CharlesA

1518 posts in 464 days


#6 posted 11-30-2013 07:48 PM

I thought about the jig saw, but I was cutting 2” square legs. TS blades are so much easier.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View tomd's profile

tomd

1759 posts in 2436 days


#7 posted 11-30-2013 08:47 PM

Go to You Tube and watch bandsaw setup by Alex Snoggrass.

-- Tom D

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CharlesA

1518 posts in 464 days


#8 posted 11-30-2013 08:57 PM

I have—that’s why I am as good as I am at it ;-).

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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distrbd

1155 posts in 1112 days


#9 posted 11-30-2013 11:37 PM

I find it easier to change blades if I remove the table.

-- Ken from Ontario

View Loco's profile

Loco

210 posts in 415 days


#10 posted 12-01-2013 09:45 PM

Take all the guides off and throw them in a lake. Buy a Carter stabilizer.

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

2427 posts in 2193 days


#11 posted 12-01-2013 10:16 PM

I change blades fairly often. I try to resist the temptation to use my Woodslicer resaw blade for lots of other cuts. I have found that I can do the change much faster after a few years of practice.

I no longer worry too much about the tension. I have learned what the blade should sound like when I give it a pluck. For the thrust and side bearings, I spin one of the wheels, turn the bearing in until it just touches the blade (starts spinning) and then turn it out until it stops touching (stops spinning). This is also a good test of the front-to-back positioning of the side bearings. If they are too far forward, there is a distinctive sound as the teeth gently hit the bearing.

My saw has a quick-release de-tensioner. That probably helps too.

-- “That it will never come again / Is what makes life so sweet. ” ― Emily Dickinson

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Tennessee

1447 posts in 1180 days


#12 posted 12-01-2013 10:30 PM

Have to be honest…use my big Grizzly mainly for resawing with a 1\2” blade or wider, and have a much cheaper PC from Lowes that normally runs a 1\8” or 1\4”. Over time, the PC pays for itself. Only restriction would be needing a 1\4” or less blade with a throat larger than 14”, which almost never happens.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Hawaiilad's profile

Hawaiilad

2030 posts in 1687 days


#13 posted 12-01-2013 10:48 PM

I also change out blades often…I like building Band saw boxes, and yes it can be a pain. I have old Harbor Freight BS that I am adding a riser kit from Delta and a new Carter stabilizer to in hopes I can keep the 1/2” wood slicer on it and use the Delta for finer blades.

-- Larry in sunny and warm Hawaii,

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poospleasures

341 posts in 1150 days


#14 posted 12-02-2013 01:17 AM

I have a 37 year old craftsman bandsaw that I paid 65.00 for then put 85.00 carter stabilizer guide on it. It does all my curved cutting with either a 3/16 or 1/4” blade. Keep the woodslicer on my big ShopFox. Sure does speed up the processes and keeps me from cussing.

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning. Vernon

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CharlesA

1518 posts in 464 days


#15 posted 12-02-2013 02:09 AM

Okay, I’ll bite. I have a newer craftsman 12” and I’ve set it up pretty carefully and replaced the side bearings. What do I get by adding carter stabilizer?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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