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How do I miter this tight angle?

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Forum topic by noone posted 11-24-2013 06:17 PM 1053 views 1 time favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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noone

559 posts in 1733 days


11-24-2013 06:17 PM

I can’t seem to figure out how to miter this very sharp angle. (by the light switch) Any tips or tricks you can share?


7 replies so far

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2227 posts in 1907 days


#1 posted 11-24-2013 06:29 PM

The first tool I would use is an angle finder.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View hobby1's profile

hobby1

327 posts in 1758 days


#2 posted 11-24-2013 06:30 PM

My first try would be to lay a small piece of scrap moulding tight to the counter, and use a straight edge tight to the wall and scribe the moulding.
If that’s what your asking about, how to mark it out.

The reason I use that method, is I imagine if the moulding was stuck into the wall, then the wall itself would be the cutoff point angle of the moulding.

Citting it may require a jig setup in your miter box to get the steep angle.

Heres one i needed to make for a steep angle miter.

View Biff's profile

Biff

126 posts in 1475 days


#3 posted 11-24-2013 07:30 PM

Ummm, do you have a bevel gauge or an angle finder? Maybe you are overthinking it?

-- Interested in Oregon property? Visit me at http://www.willamettepropertiesgroup.com

View patron's profile

patron

13535 posts in 2802 days


#4 posted 11-24-2013 10:57 PM

lay full angle

parallel both edges same distance

where they cross
connect the points
this is the bisect angle

lay 45 to inside intersection

the new angle is the ‘wedge’ to use for the new angle

set miter gauge to 45
and use ‘wedge’ against it
to increase the trim wood angle

this works for any angle inside or outside
good luck

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Loren's profile

Loren

8295 posts in 3109 days


#5 posted 11-24-2013 11:58 PM

It’s less that 45 degrees. If you’re carrying that bullnose along the wall
or replacing the baseboard that’s a different story and you either use
an acute mitering technique shown above or cope the joint.

View TaybulSawz's profile

TaybulSawz

149 posts in 1143 days


#6 posted 11-25-2013 02:06 PM

How do you want the angle to finish against the wall. If it simply butts up to the wall that’s a angle finder joint as distribd suggested. If its a two piece top cap miter joint then “patron” has guided you correctly.

-- Still got all my Fingers!!!

View noone's profile

noone

559 posts in 1733 days


#7 posted 11-25-2013 02:30 PM

Yeah, sorry about that, I guess I wasn’t very clear in my original post. I want the molding to continue along the wall to the right past the light switch. It’s B2 apron capped with a piece of cap molding (a bullnose cove combo).

I had thought about coping it, but I didn’t think the cap moudling would cope very well, or not at all….

I guess I will need to use “patron”’s method…

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