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How long a Band Saw Blade should last?

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Forum topic by b2rtch posted 11-23-2013 11:16 PM 3923 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2510 days


11-23-2013 11:16 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

In the past I bought Wood Slicer band saw blades.
Now I buy my blades local to give my business this Christian small business.
The blades that I buy there look identical to Wood Slicer blades and initially they are extremely sharp, may be too sharp as I damaged several of them on the very first cut as they grab so much.
I use 1/2×3 TPI on my 14 band-saw to resaw these 6×12 beams that I have.
I cut may be 100 linear feet and they blade noticeably dulled out.
Is this normal?
That does not seem normal to me.

-- Bert


12 replies so far

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 1500 days


#1 posted 11-23-2013 11:19 PM

I use woodslicer, that’s not normal for them. But maybe it’s the wood. Are the beams treated, or greener than KD lumber?

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2510 days


#2 posted 11-23-2013 11:20 PM

The beam are beautiful straight grain fir but old and dry.

-- Bert

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hydro

208 posts in 1213 days


#3 posted 11-23-2013 11:27 PM

Band saw blades will cut a long time as long as you do not hit something hard. I suspect the beams you are cutting have dirt somewhere that you are cutting through, dulling the blades. I use Lenox Woodmaster blades and they have performed very well, beyond expectations for me. They may be a little thick for a 14” saw however.

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

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Dallas

3599 posts in 1949 days


#4 posted 11-23-2013 11:39 PM

Bert, I have cutting old white oak on my 12” saw for the last year with the same Olsen blade.
The cuts are 6” x 53”.
This blade is starting to slow down a bit, but works good for most of my other needs.
I think I have put through about 1200-1500 cuts so far.

I may keep it and try my hand at sharpening.

Not an expensive blade, only about $13 each. 1/2” by 3 tpi raker tooth x 80 1/2”

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2510 days


#5 posted 11-23-2013 11:47 PM

I going to have a talk with guy I buy the blades from and ask him his opinion

-- Bert

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Loren

8301 posts in 3109 days


#6 posted 11-24-2013 12:06 AM

I have not found any carbon steel band saw blade to stay
sharp very long cutting wood, Woodslicers included.

This is why I now buy coil stock and solder my own blades.
The savings is a lot.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4853 posts in 2275 days


#7 posted 11-24-2013 12:10 AM

I have found when resawing that my bandsaw blades don’t last very long at all. Also, when resawing I need the blade to be sharp to make a quality cut.
Whereas cutting arches in 3/4” stock even a dull blade can handle okay.

I think it is just a limitation of plain steel blades. For some reason carbide tipped blades are still expensive for bandsaws, yet they are more affordable for tablesaws and router bits.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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RogerInColorado

321 posts in 1416 days


#8 posted 11-24-2013 12:12 AM

Bert, if I was in your shoes I’d buy another woodslicer and see how it preformed in this same stock before I passed judgment. I like buying local, too, but cost to performance ratio can’t be severely out of whack. In this case, all may be kosher but you don’t know until you compare a woodslicer to your new blade.

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hydro

208 posts in 1213 days


#9 posted 11-24-2013 12:14 AM

Dallas,- I sharpen my blades once, maybe twice before discarding. I have a 1/4” white wheel shaped to the gullet profile (using a dressing stick) and just touch off the teeth by hand. It works very well considering the lack of precision. The wheel is just an old surface grinder wheel from a surplus store that I re-worked to shape. Give it a try on a blade that has become dull. All you have to lose is a few bucks for a wheel and an old blade.

Loren, There is nothing special about the Wood Slicer blades. They are just a well made, thin (.025”?) blade that has been well marketed. Now if there were a 1/2” wide M42 HSS blade in 3/4 variable TPI and .025” thick, that would be the ticket!

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

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Loco

210 posts in 1211 days


#10 posted 11-24-2013 12:18 AM

Bandsaw blades are irrelevant-....consumables. They also shouldn’t be used on useless crap.Waste of money/time.
I get a chuckle out of some dork tossing a sheet of Chinese plywood through a $1200 table saw bleating about doing “wood work”.

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

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Dallas

3599 posts in 1949 days


#11 posted 11-24-2013 12:54 AM

Hydro, I use to sharpen my wood mizer blades at night. I wasn’t fond of it but I set up a cool little juig for myself that made it much easier.
The blades lasted much longer and would stay sharp for a longer time.

I may build a sharpening jig like that for my small band saw blades.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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b2rtch

4822 posts in 2510 days


#12 posted 11-24-2013 11:21 AM

I ended up ripping these beams on my table saw, using a Irwin 50 teeth combination blade (when I have several 32 teeth Freud ripping blades) which cut these beams like butter.

-- Bert

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