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8" jointer use question

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Forum topic by david_larch posted 242 days ago 458 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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david_larch

94 posts in 899 days


242 days ago

Hey guys,
I’m upgrading to an 8” jointer and have a methodology question. Actually mabe it’s just a general glue up question.

I do a lot of edge to edge glue ups to make large panels for furniture. Given that wider boards tend to warp / cup and move more, do those of you with an 8” jointer find that you will use a full 8” wide board in glue ups? I’d love to get that extra 2” when I’m face jointing, but I’m not sure what to expect. I’d love to hear your experiences.

Thanks!


5 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1642 posts in 1090 days


#1 posted 242 days ago

I will use them full width if they are otherwise suitable. If the board is slightly cupped, I have no qualms about ripping it down, flattening it, and gluing it back together. Warping I deal with differently. If it’s a slight warp you might be able to flatten it when clamping for glue up. If it’s more than slightly warped, I put it aside for use as shorter pieces.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2174 days


#2 posted 242 days ago

I agree with Fred, but the smaller your boards are in the glue up, the more glue lines you have and that lessens you wood movement.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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david_larch

94 posts in 899 days


#3 posted 241 days ago

Thanks for the input. Prudence in all things, :)

View Loren's profile

Loren

7226 posts in 2245 days


#4 posted 241 days ago

A lot of times with shorter boards it can be practical to joint
the full width of the board face. I have a 10” jointer and
I seldom use the full with. When you consider the factors
present in boards which are both long and wide, trying to
joint such boards flat can result in unwanted thinning at
the ends. Sometimes with a long, heavy board I plane
both sides enough to get the cupping out, then use
hand planes and winding sticks to tune the twist out of
one side, corner-to-corner. Then that face is used to
plane the board “flat” so that the joinery at the ends
doesn’t come out twisted. A slight belly in the middle
of a big board is often acceptable if it can be overlooked
or pulled in somehow. This way the I don’t throw away
thickness and my 5/4 stock is usually close to 1-1/8” final
thickness. If I jointed out every flaw it I’d often be
finding 7/8” was all I could get in a longer board.

Just by way of example, you know.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View david_larch's profile

david_larch

94 posts in 899 days


#5 posted 241 days ago

Loren, good to hear. I think that is pretty spot on what I had encountered when building my dining room table. I lost some long boards due to taper.

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