8" jointer use question

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Forum topic by david_larch posted 11-23-2013 06:08 PM 982 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View david_larch's profile


102 posts in 2298 days

11-23-2013 06:08 PM

Hey guys,
I’m upgrading to an 8” jointer and have a methodology question. Actually mabe it’s just a general glue up question.

I do a lot of edge to edge glue ups to make large panels for furniture. Given that wider boards tend to warp / cup and move more, do those of you with an 8” jointer find that you will use a full 8” wide board in glue ups? I’d love to get that extra 2” when I’m face jointing, but I’m not sure what to expect. I’d love to hear your experiences.



5 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4984 posts in 2489 days

#1 posted 11-23-2013 06:19 PM

I will use them full width if they are otherwise suitable. If the board is slightly cupped, I have no qualms about ripping it down, flattening it, and gluing it back together. Warping I deal with differently. If it’s a slight warp you might be able to flatten it when clamping for glue up. If it’s more than slightly warped, I put it aside for use as shorter pieces.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View a1Jim's profile


117090 posts in 3573 days

#2 posted 11-23-2013 06:37 PM

I agree with Fred, but the smaller your boards are in the glue up, the more glue lines you have and that lessens you wood movement.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View david_larch's profile


102 posts in 2298 days

#3 posted 11-24-2013 04:59 PM

Thanks for the input. Prudence in all things, :)


View Loren's profile


10381 posts in 3644 days

#4 posted 11-24-2013 05:21 PM

A lot of times with shorter boards it can be practical to joint
the full width of the board face. I have a 10” jointer and
I seldom use the full with. When you consider the factors
present in boards which are both long and wide, trying to
joint such boards flat can result in unwanted thinning at
the ends. Sometimes with a long, heavy board I plane
both sides enough to get the cupping out, then use
hand planes and winding sticks to tune the twist out of
one side, corner-to-corner. Then that face is used to
plane the board “flat” so that the joinery at the ends
doesn’t come out twisted. A slight belly in the middle
of a big board is often acceptable if it can be overlooked
or pulled in somehow. This way the I don’t throw away
thickness and my 5/4 stock is usually close to 1-1/8” final
thickness. If I jointed out every flaw it I’d often be
finding 7/8” was all I could get in a longer board.

Just by way of example, you know.

View david_larch's profile


102 posts in 2298 days

#5 posted 11-24-2013 05:40 PM

Loren, good to hear. I think that is pretty spot on what I had encountered when building my dining room table. I lost some long boards due to taper.


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