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Needing Better Dust Collection at my Table Saw.

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Forum topic by hjt posted 280 days ago 1624 views 1 time favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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hjt

774 posts in 1772 days


280 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: dust collection table saw

Any ideas how I can improve the saw dust collection when using my Grizzly 1022 table saw?
I have installed a dust collection hood from Rockler – connected to my Dust Deputy But as you can see, there is a lot of saw dust that doesn’t get carried away.

I had my wife stand back and watch to see what happens when I’m cutting wood. She tells me that the dust just flies off the blade and bounce all over, some going down to the hood, some flies out the open back side of the saw and the rest just sits there.

Any ideas of what I can do to improve this otherwise worthless attempt of collection the dust.

-- Harold


20 replies so far

View Jeremy Greiner's profile

Jeremy Greiner

568 posts in 1405 days


#1 posted 280 days ago

Creating a plywood back to your saw would help immensely.

-- Easy to use end grain cutting board designer: http://www.1024studios.com/cuttingboard.html

View quartrsawn's profile

quartrsawn

143 posts in 1846 days


#2 posted 280 days ago

I covered the back of mine with cardboard. Its not as tight fitting as a plywood cover, but much easier to fit. I also stuffed fiberglass insulation between the underside of the table and the cabinet. Shop vac ,a cyclone and a dust hood collect quite a bit of saw dust, not perfect but better than nothing.

-- Nat - West Sayville,L.I., NY

View GT350's profile

GT350

267 posts in 615 days


#3 posted 280 days ago

This is what I did with my Craftsman Contractor saw. The blade still tilts and it creates a small outfeed table. The sawdust drops into a bin below the blade and my dust collector pulls the dust from under the motor. It collected the dust at least as good as my new Sawstop Cabinet Saw.
Mike

View hjt's profile

hjt

774 posts in 1772 days


#4 posted 280 days ago

Thanks guys for the thoughts. I thought of boxing it in, but was concerned with the way the motor sticks out.

-- Harold

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firefighterontheside

3893 posts in 490 days


#5 posted 280 days ago

I made two different pieces that attach to the back out of plywood. These pieces attach with magnets. I have to take them off for tilting. I also closed up the spaces between the table top and the cabinet part. The more holes you can close up, the more down draft there will be at the blade and then more will go into the hood. Mine is not perfect, but it’s worlds better than the bag I used to have under there catching whatever fell out the bottom.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1736 posts in 1127 days


#6 posted 280 days ago

I tried putting hardboard pieces on the back of mine. It was 2 pieces cut to fit around the brackets/belt, and held on with one sheet metal screw to each piece. I had to remember to remove them when tilting the saw, something that didn’t work too well. I went to an enclosure something like GT 350 did, that wor4ked a lot better…especially since I didn’t have to do anything when i tilted the saw. Mine did have the disadvantage of being fastened to the outfeed table, which made removal (if you want to roll it against the wall) a headache.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

View Skippy906's profile

Skippy906

100 posts in 620 days


#7 posted 279 days ago

Another option to try is sealing up the area between the table and the saw with foam pipe insulation. I also have a grizzly saw and just made a back for the area around the belts and trunnion. I can’t tilt the saw unless I remove the back. I cut slots for the belts then used duct tape to seal the slots.

-- Making progress

View hjt's profile

hjt

774 posts in 1772 days


#8 posted 278 days ago

Thanks for the tips folks. I will have to get started on deciding what way to go. I thought that sealing up the back would cause issues with tilting, but then again, how often do I tilt the blade at this point of my saw dust hobby??

Skippy – do you find the back of your fence moves when you lock the fence in place? I have calibrated several times and have gotten it to a minimum, but I still have to tap it straight.

-- Harold

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

319 posts in 850 days


#9 posted 277 days ago

If your insane and like to suffer you can do what I did…lol

View hjt's profile

hjt

774 posts in 1772 days


#10 posted 277 days ago

Holy CRAP! Nova! That’s insane. How does it work?? I was just on line to Harbour Freight and found a bag they sell for table saw dust collecting. It get great reviews.

-- Harold

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3098 posts in 1309 days


#11 posted 277 days ago

I think I would build a version of what Nova has. I would probably use metal but plywood would work. You need a slope to start the dust traveling toward the suction hose. I would also put the plastic collector (you have bought) under the metal that you need to transition from the saw to the collector. You have a place for the dust to stack up right now. I don’t see a lot of dust outside the cabinet but you might have swept it up. Dust is not much different than water. The best way to NOT have a leak is make the water run off the slope before it can find a hole.

View TaybulSawz's profile

TaybulSawz

133 posts in 316 days


#12 posted 277 days ago

This Plywood template is a quick and easy fix and works fairly well…

-- Still got all my Fingers!!!

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

319 posts in 850 days


#13 posted 277 days ago

Hi hjt, I LMAO when I saw your response…

It is almost done, I cheated and just for now I used cardboard to cover the top and back of the motors shroud…

I only have a ridgid shop vac, but believe me I’m so happy I finally did it…

It will most likely be finished this week, I have a thread on LBJs…

Sorry I can’t remember how to link to it.

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

1923 posts in 783 days


#14 posted 277 days ago

Here’s the link to Nova’s thread

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54868

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1447 days


#15 posted 277 days ago

I use a magnetic insert like TaybulSawz above, but the slots are smaller. It needs to be removed for angled cuts, but with magnets it is easy to do. Plus 99% of the time I am making cuts with the blade at 90 degrees.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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