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Burn marks just at beginning of cut

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Forum topic by Jenine posted 272 days ago 781 views 1 time favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


272 days ago

Diagnosis needed!
I am getting burn marks just at the beginning of cuts through 8/4 hard maple. Not sure what the problem is…searched all over for an answer and found lots of fixes for issues I don’t think I have, but I turn to you all, the experts, for your advice on this problem.

The photo shows the problem. The burn marks are much heavier on the off cut piece. The burn marks are at the beginning of the cut.

Here are the details on what I am doing/using/tried already…
1. I am using a Freud full kerf rip blade in a Delta 36-650, 1 1/2 hp saw
2. The saw is perfectly aligned…just spent 6 hours aligning the trunnions last weekend and it is DEAD perfect now.
3. The fence is angled out at the back by .004” (is the is the problem? My preference is to leave it that way, but if this is the issue, then I can fix it. Would this cause burn just at the beginning?)
4. The stock splitter is dead center on the blade, some say to align to the fence side, but when I rip 8/4 maple, it always pinches in a hair before it reaches the splitter, and then the stock “crashes” into the splitter, so I think dead center is the right call here.
5. I am using a featherboard set about an inch ahead of the blade…could having it set with too much tension on the wood cause this issue??

On the up side, the shop smells lovely thanks to the small bit of smoke :) And, for anyone who read my last post, I have FINALLY stepped up and started using the table saw on a regular basis…thanks to you all!

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.


19 replies so far

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1447 posts in 1139 days


#1 posted 272 days ago

My take is you are taking your time entering the cut, then once in you speed up and finish it. That first inch or two is where you are going too slow and burning it. For the record, rock maple and cherry burn very easily. You need to commit to the cut before it hits the blade, and keep on pushing until it is out at a good, fairly fast feed rate. You’ll know if you are going too fast if the saw bogs down.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Jenine's profile

Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


#2 posted 272 days ago

Allright – will try now and let you know! Thanks! Love having a computer in the shop now :)

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1956 posts in 902 days


#3 posted 272 days ago

+1…... Maple is prone to burns. You could initially rip a hair wider than intended. Then reset the saw to final width and rip again Removing less stock at the final pass may help

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1447 posts in 1139 days


#4 posted 272 days ago

kdc has a god point. It is easier to rip off just a little without it burning. Done that plenty of times, just slipped my mind. Still, not many real cures for burning besides keeping the feed rate up good.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Jenine's profile

Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


#5 posted 272 days ago

The result…apparently commitment is key! I am getting some tooth marks now, but I think maybe a compromise on feed rate could even this out since I wasn’t getting tooth marks before. So, I guess faster than photo one and slower than photo two will solve all of life’s problems. Thanks!!

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15683 posts in 2843 days


#6 posted 272 days ago

My first thought was the same as Paul’s. Try to maintain an even feed rate throughout the cut.

Also make sure your board is snugly against the fence for its entire length when you begin the cut. If the end of the board closest to your body was just a smidgen away from the fence, it could result in burning at the start of the cut.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1447 posts in 1139 days


#7 posted 272 days ago

Good add, Charlie.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2087 days


#8 posted 272 days ago

Your saw is a little under powered for trying to rip 8/4 maple. You might consider getting a thin kerf blade to ease the stress on the motor.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Jenine's profile

Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


#9 posted 271 days ago

That is a good idea, Charlie – tomorrow when I rip more, I will give a look to that part of the board, would be interesting to see what I find!

Medic – ya, it is. But, thus far it hasn’t showed any signs of slowing down in a cut, and boy did I EVER commit to that one cut above, haha, went through so fast and easy – like cutting butter with hot Freud rip blade :) When the time comes to upgrade, I am getting a Sawstop. Absolutely.

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

View realcowtown_eric's profile

realcowtown_eric

295 posts in 562 days


#10 posted 271 days ago

8/4 maple yu say….

The slightest twist in the board is gonna do the burn thing, even if it is jointed before hand,,,,one side of the saw cut may go up and the other down….

AlsoThe second you start cutting a thick board (or also a thin board) the stresses get relieved and sometimes the board just starts to clamp down on the blade. Has nothing to do with how perfectly your saw is tuned and aligned…

And if yer blade is dull or the feed rate is too hign, the tips heat up, cause temporary warpage in the blade, and things just bind up…. also 0.causing possible burnitation!

A good sharp rip blade will help of course, but the wood still does what it does!

Many possible causes to your dilemma, not all related to your set-up. That’s the executive summary.

It is what it is. Had the same problem myself two days ago sawing 12/4 maple. Just dealt with it and got on with things….

Like your kick out on the fence of .004 though….works for me.

Eric

-- Real_cowtown_eric

View jcwalleye's profile

jcwalleye

290 posts in 1698 days


#11 posted 269 days ago

Belated welcome to LJ. It’s great to know of another Bozemanite using the forum.

As to your burning, I frequently get the same when cutting maple (or cherry) using similar equipment. It’s probably a combination of all the causes listed above. I do as KD suggested and make a final light skim cut. That also helps clean up saw marks.

-- Trees, a wonderful gift --Joe--

View Jenine's profile

Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


#12 posted 269 days ago

JC – you are in the Bozone!? Awesome! We should get together some time! Wow, can you tell I am desperate to meet other woodworkers live and in person? :)

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3318 posts in 1438 days


#13 posted 269 days ago

My saw has the same hp as yours. Switching to a thin kerf blade is a night and day difference on saws less than 3 hp. The difference is even more apparent when cutting 8/4 stock. The thin kerf blade will let you choose a feed rate that will prevent burning. The full kerf blade can barely cut fast enough to prevent burning, especially as blades dull.

Good luck.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Jenine's profile

Jenine

78 posts in 348 days


#14 posted 269 days ago

I might have to try one out, what kind do you use? I keep seeing the Forrest WWII thin kerf 40T pop up on forums.
Although, I might not have the lower hp saw for long…this saw broke on Friday and I have spent two very long days trying to repair it with no luck thus far. Such a bummer.

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

View MrFid's profile

MrFid

517 posts in 529 days


#15 posted 269 days ago

The WWII Thin Kerf 40T is a great blade. It’s the one I use for most cuts with my saw. I love it.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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