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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 11-20-2013 04:57 PM 830 views 1 time favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2959 posts in 983 days


11-20-2013 04:57 PM

I have a design for a table in mind that will take some smaller strips of walnut and or maple. I want to cut precise 1/2 inch strips off of boards 3 foot in length. I’d like the action to be repeatable without remeasuring each cut.

What’s the most efficient way to cut these 1/2” by 3 foot stripes of wood?

Bear in mind that my bs is not good for this sort of resaw, it’s set up for curves.

I would like to use the TS for this.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


20 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15706 posts in 2914 days


#1 posted 11-20-2013 05:02 PM

Sounds to me like a job for a thin rip jig. Here is one from Rockler, but they are fairly easy to make on your own.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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RussellAP

2959 posts in 983 days


#2 posted 11-20-2013 05:19 PM

CharlieM, that’s not exactly what I’m looking for. I’m wondering if I could rip it between the blade and the fence. If it was set up straight and I used a push stick and clamp a small piece of wood to the fence so the 1/2 cut off piece isn’t up against something tall, if that would work.

I don’t usually rip anything less than 1.5 inches between the blade and the fence though.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2345 days


#3 posted 11-20-2013 05:26 PM

with featherboards (pushing board against fence for consistent 1/2” width of cut, and one mounted on fence and pushing down) and 3/8” push block, I think you can safely and easily run this on the TS. I find that ~1/2” push blocks are sturdy enough to keep things safe as long as you make them large enough to keep your hands away from blade area.

now… 1/8” slices I would probably NOT do on the TS ;)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View MarkwithaK's profile

MarkwithaK

370 posts in 1874 days


#4 posted 11-20-2013 05:30 PM

I’ve ripped 1/2” maple ply into 1/2” wide strips quite a bit with very good results on the TS just as you have mentioned. I’d say give it a try….you never know what you can accomplish until you try.

-- If at first you don't succeed then maybe skydiving isn't for you.

View Jay Nolet's profile

Jay Nolet

75 posts in 735 days


#5 posted 11-20-2013 05:48 PM

I use a 2 X 8 about 1’ long with a 1 1/2” X 5” X 1/4 thick piece screwed (up high) to the back end 1/4” lower than the 2 by. The push block pushes both pieces thru the blade. The blade does cut into the block a little the first cut. This is what I used when cutting 1/2” strips for a tumbling block pattern.

-- I think, therefore I think I am.

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

774 posts in 1681 days


#6 posted 11-20-2013 05:50 PM

I would use a thin rip jig. But if you choose not to, you can get some 1/2” MDF, cut several strips however wide you want (1.5” would work), stack them on their side butted up against the fence. Move your fence so that your “stack” of strips touches the blade, remove one, run your workpiece through, remove another, etc. until you run out of strips. I personally think a thin rip jig would be much easier, but there is an alternative for you.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112366 posts in 2273 days


#7 posted 11-20-2013 06:00 PM

I was thinking of the same thing Charlie brought except a shop made jig.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/40215

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71983

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/66175

There’s a few more on Ljs

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Danpaddles's profile

Danpaddles

539 posts in 1008 days


#8 posted 11-20-2013 06:01 PM

I find repeat-ability pretty good with the Rockler jig, but – I do thinner than that with the fence, often. Feather boards are strongly advised. No problems, use a push stick that reaches out a foot or more.

Something sort of like this-

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/37148

And- no one mentioned- you might think about a zero clearance insert, depending what your present insert looks like. And double check that your blade is truly vertical, and in line with your fence.

-- Dan V. in Indy

View woodsmithshop's profile

woodsmithshop

1176 posts in 2242 days


#9 posted 11-20-2013 06:17 PM

Russell, I too cut a lot of thin strips, and it is aggravating when you waste more with the kerf than what you get for use, so I tried a 1/16” kerf blade, I use a Dewalt 7 1/4” 24 t00th framing blade, and it works pretty good without wasting so much wood, and they are cheap, around 7 or 8 $, that is less than what you would lose using a regular thin kerf blade if you are cutting some exotic wood.
just my .02 cents worth.

-- Smitty!!!

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Danpaddles

539 posts in 1008 days


#10 posted 11-20-2013 06:30 PM

Smitty- how clean is the cut? Saw marks?

-- Dan V. in Indy

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1172 days


#11 posted 11-20-2013 06:50 PM

Russell, I know you stated that you want to use the table saw and the rip’ed section at or towards the fence. Often when I rip lumber the piece or pieces deform due to the wild locked in stresses.

However this sounds like a perfect track saw type scenario depending I guess on the depth of cut required. There are numerous postings on LJ’s of easy shop built solutions for tracksaw like cutting that could yield accurate the repeatable rips that you are seeking.

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

810 posts in 1840 days


#12 posted 11-20-2013 06:56 PM

I got a Grr-Ripper set for Christmas last year and it’s designed for this sort of cut (among other very useful functions).

http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1665 days


#13 posted 11-20-2013 07:07 PM

Just rip them a whisker on the wide side and pass them through the planer to get them all the same width. If your anxious about being too close to the fence for a push stick, rip half length and flip the board.

View moke's profile

moke

522 posts in 1472 days


#14 posted 11-20-2013 07:07 PM

+1 with Elizabeth Grr-Rippers are awesome…I have a ultra thin rip adapter and regularly rip down to 1/8
Mike

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2024 posts in 1927 days


#15 posted 11-20-2013 07:16 PM

Russell. I made a jig similar to the Rockler jig using a bearing from a router bit bearing set. I cut 1/4 inch pieces of walnut for cutting boards.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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