Router Table Top Issue

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Forum topic by blackflyrancher posted 11-20-2013 10:31 AM 1144 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 1721 days

11-20-2013 10:31 AM

Okay, so maybe this isn’t in the right place, but…

I built a pretty nice router table based on plans from “Woodworking with the Router…” by Bill Hylton. It turned out great, but my top is not perfect.

A straight edge laid across opposite corners show about a 16th inch dip in the middle. I haven’t mounted it to the base yet, but I’ve already laminated it with formica, banded the edges with hardwood, and framed out the bottom for stability.

Is there a way I can get this dang thing absolutely flat? I was thinking that when I mount it I could shim the frame on the bottom that connects to the base in such a way that I can remove the dip when I attach it. That’s the only thing I can think of. The dip is perfectly diagonal across the top, it’s flat on the opposite diagonal. I believe the top is 34”x 26” or thereabouts. I’m not at home to measure at the moment.

Is there a “close enough” mark, say if I cannot get it flat…within a 32nd in the middle maybe? Or do I just make another top if I can’t get this thing fixed. I put a lot of time in this project, so the situation is a bit disappointing and frustrating, however, I don’t want a crappy table top that won’t make precision cuts.

3 replies so far

View EEngineer's profile


1103 posts in 3641 days

#1 posted 11-20-2013 12:50 PM

To tell you truth, I prefer a slight crown in the table top. I have a router lift and it includes a 3/8” aluminum top that is perfectly flat. I reference everything to the lift top and the table surface is for nothing but support on longer pieces. With a slight crown, the lift top sits a little proud of the table and it is easy to reference to it and not the table.

1/16” seems a little excessive – what surface did you glue the top up on?

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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1727 posts in 3327 days

#2 posted 11-20-2013 02:26 PM

He has a dip though, not a crown. Try shimming it when you attach it to whatever base you are going to use. I’m not sure how exactly because I’m not 100% clear on exactly how you planned to attach it.

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4 posts in 1721 days

#3 posted 11-20-2013 08:43 PM

I glued up two 3/4” sheets of mdf, then the laminate. It seemed a little much at the time, but I had the material, so I just did it. In hindsight, I might have gone with one 3/4” thickness mdf sheet and called it good, I think the problem came during glue up.

I’m attaching the table top to the base by the small supportive frame attached to the bottom. It’s made of 1”x2” and bolted into the top. It fits around the 3/4” plywood base. The base insets into the frame and I will attache it with fasteners (either wood screws or bolts, depending on which might take the dip out better). I think that If I really push the tipped up corners down while shimming the opposite corners I can pre drill for fasteners that will keep it in place.

It’ll be a shame if I can’t work this out, not sure if I can salvage the bottom frame since I laminated over the recessed nuts it’s bolted to the top with. I have a woodpeckers aluminum plate ready to go in, but if the thing won’t true up more, I’m not sure I should waste the time routing and cutting the inset – if I don’t, at least I have a table top work surface.


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