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Needed - switch for drill press

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Forum topic by JustJoe posted 247 days ago 3078 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JustJoe

1554 posts in 636 days


247 days ago

I’m finally finishing the refurb on a Craftsman 113.24560 drill press. It came with most of the electrical guts missing. (It had a 1/3hp motor that had been soaking in water, no other electrical whatsoever). Original replacement parts are no longer available. Here’s the diagram:

All that stuff sits in the head of the drill press. The switch and plug stick out up top, I think. The lightbulb is inside shining down. I can replicate the missing plate and cover, but need to find some sort of switch, outlet, and lightbulb outlet. This is a diagram of the head. It’s like an L shape and you can see the power cord going into the top part where the switch is.

If you’ve got a different model (and not 113.24540 – that’s just the benchtop version of this one) and it looks vaguely similar please let me know the model # so I can see if parts are available. Or if you know of an aftermarket switch that would work (new motor is 3/4 hp) please let me know that too.

Yes, I realize I can just slap a metal box on the side with a regular light-switch but after six months of derusting one part at a time I want to do it right.

thanks

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29 replies so far

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1054 posts in 730 days


#1 posted 247 days ago

Joe, Your drill press is featured on “Vintage Tools” restoration page and covers much of the referb actions available. Maybe they can help with an answer for you? I found them by searching Craftsman Model #24560 Drill Press. About 6=7 entrys down was this specefic entry.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 636 days


#2 posted 247 days ago

What is “vintage tools” – a thread here or a separate website? (I tried Google, that just narrowed it down to 195,000 results.

thanks
Joe

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tvrgeek

23 posts in 247 days


#3 posted 247 days ago

those are very generic parts, not “woodworking tool” parts. Any electrical supply should have them. Allide, Mouser, etc. I am sure they are on e-bay. I think even my local Lowes has them.

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1058 posts in 1391 days


#4 posted 247 days ago

It may be this.
http://www.vintagetools.net/

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1054 posts in 730 days


#5 posted 247 days ago

Joe, I appologize ”My Bad”! It’s Vintage Machinery.org But as i said I found it by searching “Craftsman Model #24560 drill press” Down about 6-7 entries is a Craftsma 113.24560 and 24540 drill press photo copy of the tool entry it opens to a blog of refurbishing the drill press It says that Emerson Electric was the manufacturer of which the 113 indicates. If Vintage Machinery can’t help you I’ll bet Emerson Electric can.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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Rick

6455 posts in 1631 days


#6 posted 247 days ago

Here is THE LINK to “Vintage machinery.org.”

All Craftsman Tools were made by the ”King Seeley Corp” until 1962 when they were bought out by ”Emerson Electric.”

I did a QUICK Search on Vintage Machinery but couldn’t locate that Model Number. Not to say it’s not there. I just didn’t have the time right now.

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

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Rick

6455 posts in 1631 days


#7 posted 247 days ago

Okay. I had another Look See. THIS LINK (on Vintage Machinery) should take you Directly to the “Owners Manual” for your Floor Model 113.24560. It’s the same Manual for the Bench Top Model.

#7 as shown on the Parts Diagram and also the Parts List, is The Switch as shown in Your Diagram.

The Complete Manual is available there for Download as a PDF File.

I did a “Snip” of those 2 Pages as below but they’ll probably Downsize them.

8888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888

8888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888

8888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 636 days


#8 posted 247 days ago

Rick, thanks but I’ve got the manual, and the diagrams. The images I posted were cut/pasted from there. The problem is that the parts are no longer available. If I go to cr@psman replacement parts website the only parts for that dp that they still sell are the generic screws and bolts that I can buy at ACE. That’s why I was looking for a similar looking drill press – hoping that a newer model might have something that would fit.

thanks though
Joe.

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View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3596 posts in 1966 days


#9 posted 247 days ago

Unless you want to restore to vintage, any properly rated toggle switch will do the job, NOT a light switch!

As shown below, a typical toggle switch, these are small enough to fit into the original spot but you will need a round hole … unless you take the time to find one with a square/rectangular mount!

Here is one more version … like those used in aircraft!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1275 posts in 781 days


#10 posted 247 days ago

Personally, I’m a fan of the bigger paddle switches, even on a vintage machine. Grizzly has an inexpensive one that works for <= 1 HP motors. I figure if I need the thing off in a hurry, I don’t want to mess around trying to grab a small, period-correct metal toggle switch.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View IrreverentJack's profile

IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1441 days


#11 posted 246 days ago

Look for a number on the switch itself, then Google it or search Amazon. I replaced the broken switch on my small generic (Taiwan) DP with this Ryobi/Ridgid part. Perfect match. -Jack

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 636 days


#12 posted 246 days ago

I mentioned in the original post that the switch, like all the guts, was missing. Not broken, missing. That means not there, gone, AWOL. While googling a part # might be a good idea for a broken part, it’s hard to do when the part doesn’t exist. I suppose I can just stare into the empty shell of a drill press head chanting ohhhhhhm until I reach some altered state where I can “see” the switch and divine any parts #s that might be printed on , in , or around it. :)

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View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1231 days


#13 posted 246 days ago

I saw a few similar/same machines on eBay. You should check there…if you haven’t already.
Worse case, you might consider buying a foot switch until you stumble upon something better. Using a foot switch will look less ghetto than slapping a lightswitch on the side of the machine….not that you’re considering that option.

View tefinn's profile

tefinn

1199 posts in 1035 days


#14 posted 246 days ago

Joe, you might be able to use a switch like this one. The light socket you can get at any HD, Lowes, or good hardware store. Haven’t found the outlet, but I’m sure an electrical supply store could come up with something.

Edit: I Googled “snap in outlet” and I found this.

Hope these help Joe.

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 636 days


#15 posted 246 days ago

Thanks. That’s the switch I’m using as a last resort. The only problem with it, and every one like it made recently, is that it’s made to snap into a thick plastic plate. My DP had a thin metal plate. It’s not a showstopper, it just means I have to thicken the plate up some to get the switch to snap in snugly and not wiggle around.

I have a decent electrical supply store – one of the oldtimers there repaired a lather motor for me. But that socket is obsolete because of the tab-type mounting bracket on it. He suggested I just keep an eye out for old light fixtures and to try and look and see how the socket is mounted. I’m thinking of jsut getting a round string of LED lights and hard-wiring them in.
Nobody I’ve talked to can figure out why the outlet is there, so that might just go away completely.

thanks
Joe

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