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Flip-top Tool Stand - Advice Needed

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Forum topic by USCJeff posted 06-18-2007 04:18 PM 6343 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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USCJeff

1063 posts in 4068 days


06-18-2007 04:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: flip top tool cart planer

My porject this weekend was a “flipp-top” tool cart. I have a couple plans from a different sources for the carts. This one is for my 12.5” Delta Benchtop Planer. I’m not putting another tool on the other side of the planer as I want this to slide into a recess under a counter that I left open in anticipation of this project. The cart is 30” tall when the planer is flipped down. Question is, what has everyone used to pivot the top? I like the plan’s ideas for locking the top, but don’t know how well the 3/4” dowel they used as a pivot will hold up. The planer is pretty heavy for a benchtop tool. Anyone used that setup? I’m thinking maybe a fairly good size steel rod would work better. I have the dowel in the shop, but would have to purchase the rod, so I thought I’d check if anyone has tried it before shelling out a few bucks.

-- Jeff, South Carolina


9 replies so far

View mot's profile

mot

4911 posts in 4036 days


#1 posted 06-18-2007 05:07 PM

I built one a few years ago that has since been dismantled. I used 3/4 solid steel rod (overkill) for the pivot. I went down the local welding shop to buy a 6” piece of it and they just gave it to me. Half inch would be fine, however, that 3/4 dowel would probably work as well. Carriage bolts would work. It’s not so much strength when you build it, but how it wears with use. If one side failed and the other didn’t you could SMASH your hand. If I was building it again, I’d use the mild steel again.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

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USCJeff

1063 posts in 4068 days


#2 posted 06-18-2007 08:21 PM

I tend to agree, mot. I don’t think the dowel will last with heavy use. Steel rod isn’t much more $. I’d like it to last. Might as well err to the side of too much than too little.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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oscorner

4563 posts in 4310 days


#3 posted 06-19-2007 01:31 AM

I agree with, Mot. Steel is the way to go and if you really want it to last, a brass insert will give you a replaceable wear point that you could even lubricate for longer life.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View Andrew's profile

Andrew

316 posts in 2366 days


#4 posted 01-05-2012 05:05 PM

This is an old thread, but I am thinking of building this and I like the idea of useing steel. How would it be secured so it doesn’t slip? The plans call for a wood screw to hold the dowel in….

-- Andrew - Albany. NY

View CubsFan's profile

CubsFan

27 posts in 3014 days


#5 posted 01-05-2012 06:02 PM

I made this one a few months ago: http://blog.woodcraft.com/?p=14588

The top is made of three layers. The top and bottom are plywood and the middle is kind of a webbing of 1/2” wood. The rod is secured in the webbing in the middle by having pieces of 1/2” wood tight against each side of the rod (and pieces on the end so that it doesn’t slip out).

View Kelby's profile

Kelby

134 posts in 2410 days


#6 posted 01-06-2012 01:33 AM

I used a pair of pillow block bearings and a short stretch of 1/2” steel rod. I cut the rod so that I had two pieces, each about three or four inches long. I drilled a hole in each side of the top, and expoxied the rods into the holes. I put the pillow block bearings onto the rods, then screwed the pillow block bearings to the sides of the cabinet. It works great.

-- Kelby

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1622 posts in 3291 days


#7 posted 01-06-2012 03:33 AM

I used a 5/8” steel rod ($12) and two bronze bushings ($1.20 each) from McMaster-Carr. I cut the rod so the ends are flush with the outside surfaces of the sides. The bushings are 3/4” long, same as the thickness of the sides. I cut 1/8” plywood into squares about 2” and screwed them onto the sides, over the ends of the rod, as bearing caps. The flipping top itself keeps the bushings from coming out the inner side. The rod goes all the way through. I have a DW 735 on one side and a Craftsman spindle sander on the other, and it’s plenty strong.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View Paul Stoops's profile

Paul Stoops

348 posts in 2560 days


#8 posted 01-06-2012 08:07 PM

You might take a look here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53637
I used 3/4” steel rod and flange bearings. The sander and the planer each weigh nearly 100lbs. Works well.

-- Paul, Auburn, WA

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MrRon

4770 posts in 3243 days


#9 posted 01-06-2012 09:40 PM

A couple of 1/2” carriage bolts would work with bronze bushings pressed into holes in the cart.

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