.007 TS blade runout

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Forum topic by savan posted 11-18-2013 03:46 AM 1572 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View savan's profile


97 posts in 2418 days

11-18-2013 03:46 AM

Is this fixable?

I measured the runout on the arbor and it was less than .001. I put the blade on and the runout at the edge of the blade was .007!

It’s a freud diablo 42t. Should I toss this blade? Would you conclde that the blade is the problem here?

19 replies so far

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2275 days

#1 posted 11-18-2013 03:48 AM

I wouldn’t rule out the blade, but I wouldn’t conclude it was the blade either. Try another before you ditch the blade.


View bigblockyeti's profile


5140 posts in 1747 days

#2 posted 11-18-2013 03:58 AM

I would try a few, the thicker the better, as they would be less likely to have warped from heat. Take a few reading from different blades. 0.001 at the arbor is probably within spec even for a high end saw. I’m assuming you took the measurement from the face of the arbor where it contacts the blade and not on the shaft itself. A known true calibration disc would be the best bet, but even a large cabinet shop would be unlikely to have one on hand. Depending on the saw, most can have the arbor replaced. Probably not worth it on a portable saw unless it was fairly new and expensive. Could be more justified for a cabinet saw, but again probably not cheap. I have a unisaw and a spare arbor for it. If I were to perform this repair on someone else’s saw it would run close to $200 in labor alone given the time for disassembly, cleaning, tuning, lubing replacement of spindle (& probably bearings too), reassembly and realignment. All that and the parts too.

View savan's profile


97 posts in 2418 days

#3 posted 11-18-2013 04:32 AM

“Take a few reading from different blades”
unfortunately I only have this blade and the one it replaced this summer. I’m going to buy another blade tho to take measurements. Can’t hurt to have a backup blade.

This is an old c-man 113 and yes I took the reading on the face of the arbor. I got this saw free on CL and have replaced all the bearings around the arbor.

I’ve cleaned and lubed it and it looks in good shape. hopefully a new blade will be the last thing it needs!

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3402 days

#4 posted 11-18-2013 10:23 AM

Another blade won’t hurt, and might help. You can also try rotating the blade on the arbor so that the runout from each offsets a little, which should some slight improvement.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View JJohnston's profile


1622 posts in 3318 days

#5 posted 11-18-2013 01:07 PM

It’s also the fact that the edge of the blade is ~5 times farther from the axis than the arbor, so any error at the arbor will be magnified by that same factor.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View hydro's profile


208 posts in 1778 days

#6 posted 11-18-2013 02:07 PM

Don’t fret about it. At speed the run out is likely much less due to the effect of centripetal force. Try rotating the blade as mentioned above.

Overall, try using the blade and making some cuts to see if the saw is cutting OK. That’s the real measure in play here.

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2388 days

#7 posted 11-18-2013 03:48 PM

I don’t see a problem.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View MrRon's profile


4795 posts in 3270 days

#8 posted 11-18-2013 06:30 PM

If you measured runout at the thread, that would be translated to “wobble” at the arbor face and magnified at the saw tip. To read runout, you would have had to make contact with the thread portion of the arbor with your dial indicator. Runout would indicate a bent arbor that would cause “wobble”. You don’t want to measure at the thread, but at the face of the washer that contacts the blade. Try loosening the nut and rotating the blade to different positions, and take runout (wobble) measurements. If the reading is consistant at all blade positions, your arbor may be bent, or the face of the washer is not perpendicular to the arbor axis. If the arbor washer is wobbling, it could be trued by holding a coarse stone or file against the rotating arbor (without the blade), but I would only attempt this if the wobble is very small. Any large movement (+.010” or more) would need replacement.

View savan's profile


97 posts in 2418 days

#9 posted 11-18-2013 06:38 PM

These are what my readings looked like. There were consistent upon rotating the blade into a couple different positions.

The arbor face seems extremely flat. I’d say the only movement I saw while testing the face of the arbor was jittering caused by the arbor face not being completely smooth after 40 years :P

I didn’t measure for wobble. I also tried the measurements with and without the washer and they were the same.

edit these are thou of course-

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2514 days

#10 posted 11-18-2013 08:35 PM

7/1000” of an inch?
Come on….

Are you really that OCD or anal to worry about a piece that is about seven times thicker than a human hair?

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View savan's profile


97 posts in 2418 days

#11 posted 11-18-2013 08:52 PM

I’m more concerned about my ability (or inability) to align the blade to the mitre slot. But i guess if i use the same reference point to align the infeed and outfeed sides of the blade I should be fine.

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2514 days

#12 posted 11-18-2013 09:27 PM

Seriously, the first time you hit a piece of cross grain that blade will flex more than .007.

then again, wood swells, flexs, twists and does weird stuff.

I chased a errant difference between my miter and my blade for about a month. This was an Incra V120.
I finally gave up and just use the saw.
Most of my cuts are good to glue up without any further work.

Try it, you might find everything is good.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View MrRon's profile


4795 posts in 3270 days

#13 posted 11-19-2013 05:00 PM

Savan, The readings you show are “wobble”

View savan's profile


97 posts in 2418 days

#14 posted 11-19-2013 05:18 PM

ok, i guess i misunderstood your previous post or my diagram is misinterpreted. The numbers on the circle are lateral movement numbers. I was interpreting wobble as you described it as a sort of bounce.

View Tedstor's profile


1643 posts in 2659 days

#15 posted 11-19-2013 05:27 PM

I too have a .113 with similar runout readings. My cuts are OK, so I haven’t bothered trying to fix it.

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