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Forum topic by HillWilly posted 11-15-2013 12:09 AM 779 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HillWilly

35 posts in 833 days


11-15-2013 12:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: ras sharpening chisels diamond accessory radial arm saw attachment jigs planing irons

All you Craftsman RAS enthusiasts and the rest of you that need planing irons and chisels sharpened. while I was thumbing thru the web the other day I discovered a cup shaped diamond sharpening wheel that had the 1/2” x 20 thread that would attach to the accessory side of my RAS. With the proper jigs and the proper head rotation, it seems like this might be made to work!!!

I don’t remember the site at this moment but I did not stray too far into my browser to find it and I will find it again., If any one finds it first please let me know!!!

-- ...and whether or not it is clear to us, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should...DESIDERATA...Max Ehrmann


9 replies so far

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joeyinsouthaustin

1285 posts in 797 days


#1 posted 11-15-2013 12:11 AM

find it and post it… I fall in the category or interested in your research. Have the saw, with the accessory side.

-- Who is John Galt?

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 763 days


#2 posted 11-15-2013 12:40 AM

I’d like to see that if you find it again. All the threaded diamond cup wheels I know of are 5/8, not 1/2 so they fit on an angle-grinder.

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Rick

7028 posts in 1757 days


#3 posted 11-15-2013 02:50 AM

Yes! Please do find & Post It.

-- LJ's "Be Nice" Policy. "Reach out and touch someone." NO! Not There!! ... ;-}

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TorxNut

58 posts in 621 days


#4 posted 11-15-2013 04:45 AM

A RAS would spin a bit fast for this application, wouldn’t it? Aren’t most RAS’s 3450 RPM?

Bill

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tomd

1791 posts in 2495 days


#5 posted 11-15-2013 05:37 AM

I agree with Bill, RAS are 3450RPM that’s a mighty fast cup wheel.

-- Tom D

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unbob

440 posts in 628 days


#6 posted 11-15-2013 05:38 AM

Well,
Diamond cup wheels are really not the right wheel for grinding steels. Yes, they will grind, but removing much material is not economical, with pretty poor results.
The modern correct wheels are CBN “cubic boron nitride”, they are very expensive.
Since the wood tools would be finished honed, I would recommend a Norton seeded gel wheel, coarse grit, soft grade. The blue wheels, they grind cool and work good without coolant, not terribly expensive.
Please be very careful with cup wheels, they can explode if bumped or overloaded.
I use all the above wheels on a tool and cutter grinder, diamond only for carbide.

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HillWilly

35 posts in 833 days


#7 posted 11-17-2013 03:54 PM

Unbob, I am familiar with the cup shapes that you are talking about and their explosive nature. The one I saw had a wide diamond surface perpendicular to the arbor and is used like you were sharpening on the side of an arbor mounted grinding stone. I still haven’t found it again!!

-- ...and whether or not it is clear to us, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should...DESIDERATA...Max Ehrmann

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unbob

440 posts in 628 days


#8 posted 11-17-2013 04:23 PM

Here is the Norton site, the photo may show what you are looking for. The aluminum body wheels are fairly safe, the regular stone ones can be a safety hazard. If one insists on using diamond on steel, the coarse wheels with low concentration diamond will grind better. A 1” hole wheel can be bushed to fit the regular 5/8” arbor on the saw. I haven’t done it, but a tool fixture could be made, and the travel of the saw could be used for some pretty accurate grinding, I would think.

http://www.nortonindustrial.com/uploadedFiles/SGindnortonabrasives/Documents/Catalog_PDFs/NortonSuperabrasives-NortonToolroomWheels.pdf

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HillWilly

35 posts in 833 days


#9 posted 11-17-2013 06:48 PM

I opened the norton site. I scrolled down to page 19. The one I saw on line was like the one in the lower right corner. It was 4 1/2” diameter with the rim width [“w” dimension] about 1 1/2”, with an arbor thread of 1/2” x 20. Also one with a 5/8×11. I am still looking. I am not sure what RPM would work. It may have even been a wet lube application, or not.

And as for the grit, I have found that it doesn’t take “SCAREY SHARP” to make a good curl.

I remember seeing a drum sander that was run by a pulley from the accessory side of the Craftsman RAS, and with a little inagination and some pulley juggling, I cant help but imagine…........

Also i found a 10” x 2”, and 10” x 4” FLAIL type sanders [I am really not sure how else to describe them] with very course grit used for stripping and course shaping in a hurry, and again, I was in a hurry and did not get enough info, but they may have also been adaptable to the above RAS.

-- ...and whether or not it is clear to us, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should...DESIDERATA...Max Ehrmann

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