Grizzly G0696X 12" 5HP Table Saw?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by darthford posted 11-13-2013 03:15 AM 4648 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

11-13-2013 03:15 AM

This saw is calling to me, I’m on the verge of ordering it. Plus its my birthday which makes ordering something so tempting. Does anyone own one of these or have any comments on it?

What I like...the 4” depth of cut because it seems every time I turn around I need to cross cut 3.5” stock accurately. If you need to cut something once and it needs to be accurate on the first try that’s a table saw. I also like the big ass cast iron table its 48”x30” (ohohoh) with 18” rip capacity left of the blade and 36” rip capacity right of the blade. That’s all I need, I don’t want or need a 50” rip capacity, I have that in the shop now and its just in the way. 5HP is a nice to have plus vs 3HP. I already have 220 30amp receptacles so I’m wired for this beast.

What I dislike...the 2.5” dust collection restriction ah Grizzly what the hell? I can see that being a saws all project. Aluminum fence meh I think I would prefer the slippery plastic.

26 replies so far

View cabmaker's profile


1740 posts in 2986 days

#1 posted 11-13-2013 03:46 AM

I think you would like the extra beef. Cant believe that saw has a two inch dust port but that could easily be corrected.

Fence is a bit cheesy for sure.

You could probably find you an early delta 12-14 for less money, and it has a 48X38 top on it (cast iron), most will be 7.5 hp but many are 5hp.

Enjoy! JB

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3825 days

#2 posted 11-13-2013 04:01 AM

Some factors to consider in getting accurate crosscuts in
thicker timbers on a table saw:

Do you only crosscut short pieces with a miter gauge at 3.5” thick?

Do you use a sled for larger parts? How thick is it?

Do you expect to use a sliding table outrigger?

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#3 posted 11-13-2013 05:08 AM

Loren – I have a new Incra Miter 5000 sled I use for most cross cuts. I am giving it stern looks of late, it seems inferior to the one I owned a few years back which I loved.

cabmaker – That Rockwell is some big iron, too big for my small shop but I did check them out on your suggestion. I guess the Grizzly has a 2.5” hose internally and it looks like there may be another opening for the bottom of the cabinet, here’s some pics.

Here is the Grizzly G1023RL inlet, note the two openings

Here is the best pic I could find on the G0696X inlet, my guess is the bottom opening is for the cabinet and there is a 2.5” port for the internal hose above it. This is better than I thought, saves me from hacking on it with a saws all.

Here’s the G0696X internal hose

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#4 posted 11-13-2013 08:10 PM

Just got a call from Grizzly, they confirmed the fence rail is 75 inches which does not match the picture on their website. I’m guessing this saw originally had shorter rails and they lengthened them to offer more rip capacity. So its not quite as wide as a 50” rip capacity saw but the weight is right over the saw so it shouldn’t tip or need legs to support the end so I’m still a go on this saw.

Anyone have a suggestion for a comparable saw I should look at? It looks like the Powermatic and Jet equivalent are near $4,000 and I’m not looking to spend that much. Still interested to hear from anyone who owns this saw.

View paxorion's profile


1107 posts in 2223 days

#5 posted 11-13-2013 09:02 PM

darthford – Looking forward to hearing more about tool acquisitions. I am certainly getting envious of your ongoing shop tool additions =)

-- paxorion

View retfr8flyr's profile


386 posts in 1846 days

#6 posted 11-14-2013 01:42 AM

This would be another option for you, looks like a nice setup.


-- Earl

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#7 posted 11-14-2013 01:50 AM

Thanks paxorion, I’m on a tool buying binge lately. I captured some more pics and discovered a few things more about this saw.

Here is a better picture of the dust collection port, I guess I’m okay with this.

Okay is it just me or is the left miter slot further away from the blade than the right miter slot? And if so why?

Here’s another shot

Here you see the much longer fence rails than what are shown in the pic on their web site.

I like what I see here there are 6 bolts holding the rear rail on, the Powermatic PM2000 has only 2 bolts, the instructions say drill your own hole if you want to put a 3rd bolt in.

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#8 posted 11-14-2013 02:00 AM

Earl that’s an exact copy of the Grizzly except for the DRO but then Baileigh is charging $350 more than Grizzly for that. That said being as an old CNC guy the DRO is my kind of thing, would depend on what Baileigh charges for shipping vs Grizzly and if they collect sales tax (Grizzly does).

View toolie's profile


2147 posts in 2806 days

#9 posted 11-14-2013 02:45 AM

i don’t own that saw, but when i saw it and the 690/1 and the 1023, it appeared to be head and shoulders above the 10” offerrings from grizzly. it looked like a BEAST.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#10 posted 11-14-2013 03:52 AM

Thanks for the input toolie, compared to the PM2000 I have now size wise its probably not quite as impressive a difference. The PM2000 top is 42×30 vs the Grizzly 48×30, the Grizzly is 2” thick though vs the PM2000 1.5 inch thick.

Thing is the Grizzly is just about the right size for me without the extension table and side car 50” fence. The Grizzly also has the clear advantage in 12” blade vs 10” and 5HP vs my PM2000 3HP. The cabinet bases are similar in size, if anything the PM2000 is a bit deeper.

Weight wise this PM2000 which has the longer 50” fence rails and extension table, legs, and a cast iron base and the whole built in mobile base thing and its still 100 pounds lighter than the Grizzly. I’d say that qualifies the Grizzly as beasty!

View jonah's profile


1878 posts in 3476 days

#11 posted 11-14-2013 04:46 AM

What exactly are you building that involves cutting 3 1/2 inch stock repeatedly?

Also: why can’t you just use a good sliding compound miter saw?

I’m just trying to get into a frame of mind where I can understand ditching a basically brand new, top of the line cabinet saw for something else.

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#12 posted 11-14-2013 05:47 AM

Think shaker, mission, craftsman, big chunky through tenons. I have a low opinion of miter saws based on prior experience. Regarding the Powermatic PM2000 I’m not that impressed with it. Sure its a step up and its nicer than many but top of the line would not be a description I would use. A top of the line saw doesn’t trail chunks of its mobile base wheels behind it like bread crumbs. It has some other warts as well.

Also this is my brothers saw, he didn’t have room for it so I agreed after he twisted my arm to forego buying my own saw and setup his at my place. I just want my own saw that’s part of it.

I probably would have purchased a Powermatic until my experience with his. I found the same thing when shopping jointers recently, I called Powermatic and spoke to them, their product is the same Asian product built in the same factory, they don’t even give you a better motor so I’m hard pressed to understand the huge premium in price they are charging. That’s just my personal opinion.

The Grizzly’s if you ready my blogs they have their warts also, but at that price point I’m not expecting perfection and don’t mind resolving some minor issues.

View jonah's profile


1878 posts in 3476 days

#13 posted 11-14-2013 03:02 PM

I’m no Powermatic devotee (overpriced, as you say), but it seems a whole lot more economical to get, set up, and make use of a miter/cut off saw if that’s what you need, rather than spending thousands on a new table saw that’s basically only going to do one thing better than what you have.

What was your specific problem with miter saws? I have a basic 12” non-slider and it makes perfectly square cuts over and over and over. I think I paid $250 for it. You could step up to a 10 or 12” slider, dial it in, get a really good quality blade, and end up spending a fifth what you’re talking about spending on a new table saw.

View darthford's profile


612 posts in 2101 days

#14 posted 11-14-2013 03:55 PM

I have owned a couple of chop saws on the expensive side and found them adequate for trim work around the house and building a deck but that’s about it. The tools are cheap junk imo, aluminum bases that never seem to be square and too much flex for getting repeatable results in thick hardwood (3.5”). Just my opinion.

View MrRon's profile


5150 posts in 3421 days

#15 posted 11-14-2013 04:48 PM

I like Jet machines, thou they cost more than Grizzly’s, but you can find Jets at local suppliers and not have to pay Grizzly’s shipping costs. The miter slot distance from the blade you observe is due to it being a left tilt saw. The right miter slot is intended for the miter gauge. On right tilt saws, the miter gauge is used in the left miter slot.

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics