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Scroll saw blades for marquetry

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Forum topic by Boris posted 11-13-2013 02:17 AM 1468 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Boris

156 posts in 1603 days


11-13-2013 02:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question blade

Hi, guys
I am interesting in double bevel marquetry using a scroll saw, I would like to know what will be your recommendation for blades.
Thanks
Regards


14 replies so far

View doordude's profile

doordude

1085 posts in 1671 days


#1 posted 11-13-2013 05:52 AM

just had a class, and was told to use “Olsen- 3/0 blades
i’m learning and a long way to go…

View TorxNut's profile

TorxNut

58 posts in 585 days


#2 posted 11-13-2013 06:35 AM

Flying Dutchman and Olsen are both well regarded for their scroll saw blades. You can see what FD offers here: http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm and a chart of Olson blades here: http://www.olsonsaw.net/lib/yhst-16765698503918/ScrollChart.pdf

One thing to keep in mind is though the spiral blades look like a great idea, they can be hard to follow a line with. The reverse tooth blades cut well with very little splintering.

Hope this helps,
Bill

View PaulDoug's profile

PaulDoug

579 posts in 392 days


#3 posted 11-13-2013 04:11 PM

Mike’s workshop is a great place to deal. If you send him an email, or call him, he will send you couple blades to try, for free. Just tell him what you are trying to accomplish and he will send a couple blades that he would recommend.

-- “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2499 posts in 2430 days


#4 posted 11-13-2013 07:27 PM

For Marquetry – I use a 2-0 skip tooth

There are many fine blades – some of which may be better like doodude usin 3-0.

I took a class to learn marquetry, and we used 2-0 there, and I never bothered to really try a lot of other blades, since the olsen 2-0 worked great.

I find I am working at a 7degre tilt

If you use a “fatter” blade – - that is cutting a wider kerf you will have to increase the angle.

The thinner the cut – - the less bevel you need to make your piece fit like a cork into the background

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View alohafromberkeley's profile

alohafromberkeley

248 posts in 1092 days


#5 posted 11-13-2013 07:59 PM

MikesWorkshop has a sampler pack of FD blades- a good way to try a few and see what you like. He’s friendly and knowledgeable.Great prices for great blades- he even threw in a couple free blades that weren’t in sampler. Can’t go wrong with FD or Olson blades.

-- "After a year of doing general farmwork, it was quite clear to me that chickens and I were not compatible"-George Nakashima

View Boris 's profile

Boris

156 posts in 1603 days


#6 posted 11-13-2013 11:51 PM

Thank you guys
So 2-0 and 3-0 are blades sizes.
Regards

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1700 posts in 1610 days


#7 posted 11-14-2013 01:18 AM

I do over 350 double bevel inlayed images a year and I do them all with Flying Dutchman Polar #5 blades.

-- In God We Trust

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5087 posts in 1486 days


#8 posted 11-14-2013 04:27 AM

The finer the marquetry you want to cut, the finer the blade you should use. I use 2/0, 30 tpi and 60 tpi blades but I’m using a chevalet, not a scroll saw and I’m square cutting, not DB. I find that they are fine enough without being overly prone to breakage.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2499 posts in 2430 days


#9 posted 11-14-2013 03:01 PM

To get your tilt right, take two pieces of veneer – - maybe 2-3 inches square, and cut a 1 inch circle

Your top piece should fit the bottom like a cork – - if there is a gap, increase the tilt. if the plug wont lie flush, decrease the tilt.

Also the Thicker the veneer – - the flatter the angle.

I tilt to the left (so table running from 8’oclock-2 oclock.
The keeper piece on top. and always on the left side of the blade.

Just try some stuff out – - simple shapes with scraps of veneer

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View Boris 's profile

Boris

156 posts in 1603 days


#10 posted 11-15-2013 03:42 AM

I did a leaf today and it came better than my previous attempt, still a long way to go, the worst part was the entry hole
Thank you all for your replays I appreciate it .
Regards

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1700 posts in 1610 days


#11 posted 11-15-2013 09:14 PM

Boris:.........Are you drilling the entry hole at an angle? I drill mine at approximately six degrees and the entry hole then does not show.

-- In God We Trust

View Boris 's profile

Boris

156 posts in 1603 days


#12 posted 11-15-2013 10:56 PM

Yes Jim, I am but I think the drill bit is to big, I am going to buy pin drill driver that might help.
Thanks
Regards

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2499 posts in 2430 days


#13 posted 11-15-2013 11:13 PM

Boris – when I was doing this we were just poking a hole through the veneer wih an awl.
It seemed that the awl did more “spreading the wood” than ploughing out a hole, so that when you pressed it back flat you could nearly burnish the hole away. Just tapping with the butt of a chisel.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View Boris 's profile

Boris

156 posts in 1603 days


#14 posted 11-15-2013 11:54 PM

Hi Dave, I am using 3/32 thick veneer
Thanks
Regards

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